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Broughton's Bluff beta?


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I think there is all of like 4 sub 10 trad lines at Broughton, and all somewhat sandbagged in my limited experience. The Hammer and the Sickle are two on the Left Hanging Gardens wall - fun columnar basalt followed by a .7 and .8 offwidth respectively. They always kick my ass. Classic crack is great though polished smooth and a real bitch. All can be easily top roped too. Haven't climbed it yet, but Gandalf's Grip looks like a fun 3 pitch 5.9 too.

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First pitch of Sheer Stress .10a. I'd say that the only real .10a part of that climb is the first 15-20 feet (gear placements can be ackward) then it's fairly easy steps and a fun move around the arete to the chains. I suppose pump could be a factor near the end, but I'm sure that DFA would never experience such a thing as that.

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