Gaston_Lagaffe Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 I'm looking for beta for Primal Scream. Because of the alleged horrendous approach I'd hate to arrive at the base only to find out I took either wayyy to much gear, or wayyy too little. I've done Online @ Static, so I know what runout means, but I'm fresh in the trad business. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 Isn't primal scream that blue tape route in the gym that every gumby starts to shriek about after grabbing the orange pusher crimp!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 isnt primal scream at darrington?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaston_Lagaffe Posted March 28, 2003 Author Share Posted March 28, 2003 That's the one. And please don't me point to C&SE website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 THATS THE BETA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 goto mattp's website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offwidthclimber Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 the approach is fuckin' SWEET. MattP and i went there one day with the intentions of checking out primal scream, but didn't get that far. we climbed another nice line instead. here's a link to a TR i wrote up about the day: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/squirecw/marg.txt cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 28, 2003 Share Posted March 28, 2003 There was some brushing on a route headed around toward the south end of Squire Creek wall about ten years ago, but I wouldn't expect to find much sign of any trail. Stay low as you pass around the buttress that forms the SE corner of Squire Creek Wall, and expect at least a few hours of battle with salmon berry, slide maple, salal, etc. Once you get over there, good luck identifying the "right" rib -- it is not exactly clear from what information is available which one it is and I would guess they may be difficult to distinguish from below. I would take your standard rack for a trad route, with gear up to perhaps 3" or so, lots of long runners, and two ropes. I would also carry a couple of knife blades and lost arrows, and a hammer. Chris is very sparse on the beta, and I know of nobody else who has climbed the route, but I believe you will find no bolts on the route and like all Darrington climbs there will be few if any straight-in cracks. Your pro will mostly go behind flakes or be draped around bushes. The rock is lower in angle around that end of the wall than lots of Darrington rock, so bring the sticky shoes. I haven't been around to the south end of the wall, so I can't tell you much about the descent. Early season may not be a good time to go -- every time I have been any where near Squire Creek Wall before June I have seen very large avalanches and rockfall. If you go, send details to David Whitelaw so he can adde it to his new guide. I cant wait to read your trip report! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaston_Lagaffe Posted March 28, 2003 Author Share Posted March 28, 2003 offwidthclimber said: the approach is fuckin' SWEET. MattP and i went there one day with the intentions of checking out primal scream, but didn't get that far. we climbed another nice line instead. here's a link to a TR i wrote up about the day: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/squirecw/marg.txt cheers, Yeah, I read that page. Sounded like quite the adventure. I went to the trail head a couple of times last summer and there's a massive landslide that took out like quarter of the road up there. It's quite the sight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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