Thinker Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 OK, here's the scoop. I've written it in a thread somewhere else....there's loads of info about the questions you've asked there...search for it. The free camping is on BLM land just outside the park. Signs posted at the park when campsites are full direct campers to the BLM 'sites'. They're primitive, but they're car camping so you can take as much water etc as you want. to get to the BLM area, leave the park heading toward Almo. Instead of turning left to go into Almo, turn right, go less than 1/4 mile (may be more like 1/2 mile, but you get the drift), turn right into a gated driveway, open the gate, drive, close the gate, and drive 1/2 mile to an area with a small concrete block pump house. If you're lucky the pump will be on and you can get water there. Camp there if there's any room...crowded with RVs and pickups usually. If that's full, continue up the rutted road past another fenceline and there's LOADS of free camping on the BLM land there. It's also wildlife habitat so you may consider staying very visible and making lots of noise during hunting season. Anybody at the park office or general store can direct you to the BLM sites if you want more beta. Also, there's a 'new' steakhouse' in Almo. I've personally witnessed the owner 'ask' climbers to leave if they overstay their welcome, esp on rainy days. Good food, reasonably friendly folks...until they get busy and want you to move on. The showers at Tracys General Store are legendary, includes a towel. I concur with the assessments of Brad. He's a true climber that sometimes has an uphill battle to keep climbers interests on the list of priorities there. He's former YOSAR and goes back there fairly often to climb. for easy sport leads start on Theater of Shaddows on Jackson's Thumb next to Steinfells Dome. its a 4 to 6 pitch 5.6 or 5.7 route well worth the approach if you're climbing at that grade. get there early to be the first one on the route. Last time there I climbed with a relatively new leader and even she was skipping bolts. Most other routes put up by the same guy, Kevin Pogue (sp?) are also over bolted by most climbers standards, but they're a great way to get the lead out early in the year. Be careful on Wheat Thin or Rye Crisp, I heard they've been spitting some pro out recently, possibly injuring some climbers. Do a search on CC.com on the phrase 'city of rocks' and you'll be amazed at what you find. For an especially good time, try the short little climb called Sportin' a Woodie. Climb literally starts out on top of a fence post and is a 3 move wonder....don't forget your stick clip if you're a true sprot climber! Ask locally for the location of the problem. Others not to miss are Swiss Cheese, Scream Cheese, Cruel Shoes, Raindance, Tribal Boundaries, Reservations (last two can be top roped from the anchors if you climb something else on the rock and rap down on top of the climb), New York Ain't the City, Too Much Fun aka Too Many Bolts..... take two 60 M ropes, buy a thin 60 m static, or hook up with another party on some of the routes if you want to reach the ground on your raps/loweroffs.....not exactly sport climbing at that point..hee hee hee! Do NOT be tempted to free solo there, despite what you see other goofballs doing. Save that for when you're older, smarter, more experienced, and have less to live for. I absolutely HATE feeling compelled to waste my climbing time to rescue some bozo free soloing a route over his head....I've done it and will likely do it again, but the price is high...imagine wetting your pants in front of your friends when you're sketched...not very glamorous at that point....I've seen it....I've dropped the end of my rope to guy in that position at the City. so, with all that said, I'll get off my soap box. This vodka induced haze has made me way too reminiscent............... Quote
specialed Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 Thinker said: Be careful on Wheat Thin or Rye Crisp, I heard they've been spitting some pro out recently, possibly injuring some climbers. Do NOT be tempted to free solo there, despite what you see other goofballs doing. Save that for when you're older, smarter, more experienced, and have less to live for. I absolutely HATE feeling compelled to waste my climbing time to rescue some bozo free soloing a route over his head....I've done it and will likely do it again, but the price is high...imagine wetting your pants in front of your friends when you're sketched...not very glamorous at that point....I've seen it....I've dropped the end of my rope to guy in that position at the City. First of all why would a climb all of a sudden start spitting out gear? Did a pack of elves who enjoy removing pro take up residence inside the crack or something? Both those routes are splitter and take PERFECT gear. Second, Who the fuck are you to tell anyone here not to free solo? Why do you assume someone reading this isn't competent enough? The rock at the City is consistently good and solid - its actually a fine place to free solo if you're going to. What you said was paramount to saying noone should free solo anywhere ever. What an arrogant and ridiculous assertion. Thanks for the good beta but keep your assumptions and condascending "warnings" to yourself Quote
erik Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 Thinker said: Do NOT be tempted to free solo there, despite what you see other goofballs doing. Save that for when you're older, smarter, more experienced, and have less to live for. I absolutely HATE feeling compelled to waste my climbing time to rescue some bozo free soloing a route over his head....I've done it and will likely do it again, but the price is high...imagine wetting your pants in front of your friends when you're sketched...not very glamorous at that point....I've seen it....I've dropped the end of my rope to guy in that position at the City. r u the huy who tried to lecture me when i was up on givlers by myself like two years ago?? with your old lady slung to that poor tree?? if not never mind...if so...nevermind.. Quote
Dru Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 "now don't make me come up here and rescue you ever again!" Quote
Scott_J Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 Thinker I believe that the slime ball lawyer wanna be is having a PMS attack. Quote
minx Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 hey people! ease up! city of rocks is great place to climb regardless of your vice of choice. free solo where you want when you want if you're capable and smart. plenty of rock to go around for whatever your whims and wishes there! Quote
specialed Posted March 24, 2003 Posted March 24, 2003 sisu_suomi said: Thinker I believe that the slime ball lawyer wanna be is having a PMS attack. Hey you should wait until you're older wiser and more experienced before making that assertion, despite what some other goofballs might be doing... People have gotten in trouble doing that. Believe me, I've seen it. Quote
Norsky Posted March 25, 2003 Posted March 25, 2003 First of all why would a climb all of a sudden start spitting out gear? Did a pack of elves who enjoy removing pro take up residence inside the crack or something? Yes. I have said hello to them. Quote
Thinker Posted March 25, 2003 Posted March 25, 2003 Boy, I see I caught a few of you on a particularly fine day today. I made the assumption that lurker 'Skyclimb' was a relative beginner since he was asking about toprope-able climbs (not exclusively, but he did ask). I personally know how strong the allure can be to free solo, esp on good rock when others are doing it. However, if the guy isn't familiar enough with climbing to run down to FF or REI (or whatever the equivalents are in his neighborhood) and look at the guidebook for himself I feel justified and assuming (either fairly or unfairly) that he's got a bit to learn before being able to make a fully informed decision about free soloing . It was really a vodka induced tangent to my main point about camping areas anyway. Ed, if you want to free solo I'd love to watch if I'm in the area. I'm always looking for more gory photos to post on the web. rock on bro! Erik, I usually don't talk to guys like you unless I see you've wet your pants already. I think that was prolly Dwayner and Icegirl who lectured you! get a life and go climbing, geeeez Quote
Thinker Posted March 25, 2003 Posted March 25, 2003 PS RE: Ed's questions and statement "First of all why would a climb all of a sudden start spitting out gear? Did a pack of elves who enjoy removing pro take up residence inside the crack or something? Both those routes are splitter and take PERFECT gear." Just passing along some info from an friend of mine who worked at the park for a few years. I agree they both take good pro. Maybe its the people setting the pro that those routes are vommiting out....damn hippies anyway! ...they just get the climbs all greasy and slimy for the rest of us. But wait, I'll bet SpecialEd the slimeball attorney has the same problem the hippies do. Ed, you should really keep your balls in your pants when you're climbing instead of using them for passive pro. (How else would he know they're slimy compared to everyone else's if someone behind him hadn't told him?) Quote
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