salbrecher Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 So today I spent the rest of my student loan and bought some more gear for my bare bones rack . The Squamish forecast is for rain and i'm ready to introduce myself to some aid climbing misery on solo top rope. does anyone have some tips that they found particularly helpfull when they started aid climbing? I just want to cut the learning curve as much as possible, if there even is a learning curve with aid Quote
Lambone Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 Sal, from what I've read of yours here, I'm assuming that you are pretty good with placing pro. So that part won't slow you down so much. The tricky part is dialing your system with all the extra clutter. I won't tell you how to do it, cause you'll teach yourself while up there (unless you have specific question). But my advice to you would be to keep it simple and streamlined at first. Carry the bare minimum that you will need for the specific crack you pick and reduce the clutter. I think this helps anyones learning curve the most when first getting in the aiders. The more intricit the system, the longer it will take and the more frustrated you will get, which hurts the curve. If your toproping a crack, just bring the peices you need and leap frog them, don't carry the full rack. And focus on staying relaxed. I find the more relaxed I am, the quicker the pitch gows. Good whiskey helps for this aspect of aiding in the rain. Enjoy! Quote
salbrecher Posted March 8, 2003 Author Posted March 8, 2003 Keeping it simple makes sence. I'm not so good at placing pro (I started leading last summer) which is one of the main reasons I want to aid. Quote
Bug Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 salbrecher said: Keeping it simple makes sence. I'm not so good at placing pro (I started leading last summer) which is one of the main reasons I want to aid. Then take it all. Actually, good advice from Lambone. If you are not top-roping, take enough to sew it up. And when possible, place your pieces at eye level or thereabouts so you can see them real well. This is good for your placement skill development for awhile. At least until you have a good feeling about your placements. If you are top-roping then Lambone's advice is good - go light to eliminate clutter. But I like to practice setting different kinds of pieces too. Stoppers, tricams, TCUs, stacking stoppers, camming stoppers, opposition, etc.... It's all fun if you have enough whiskey. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 Something someone hasn't mentioned is hooks. Although not typically a beginning aid technique, once you get comfy high-stepping a hook everything else seems pretty chilled in comparison. Seriously--its almost an epiphany when you shift your weight over on that hook and see it holds. I fell on a hook and it held--now that was a clencher! Also, when testing pieces be sure not to look at them--especially if you are setting them at eye level, which as Bug suggested is a good idea when starting out. If that piece pops while you're bounce-testing it and you are looking at it you stand a chance of catching it in the eye. Turn your head. Some people really like to reef on those placements when they bounce test. I generally give it a few sharp tugs then ease my weight over. Bounce-testing a nut can make cleaning that bad boy a real PITA for the follower. Have fun! Quote
bDubyaH Posted March 8, 2003 Posted March 8, 2003 i second playing with hooks. i did my first "real" aid climbing last year in little switzerland, and after dangling in the air past a bulge via a series of hook moves even the manky rusty old fixed tricam rap stations were looking bomber. in my mind one of the hardest things about aid climbing is keeping everything organized, so keep plugging away until you find a method that works for you and stick with it. i set routes in a gym (don't tell anyone ) so i used that time to get my rope work really honed in and get comfortable transferring my weight from one set of etriers to another. all things that can be practiced on top rope safely! Cheers and have fun Quote
Bug Posted March 9, 2003 Posted March 9, 2003 rbw1966 said: Also, when testing pieces be sure not to look at them--especially if you are setting them at eye level, which as Bug suggested is a good idea when starting out. If that piece pops while you're bounce-testing it and you are looking at it you stand a chance of catching it in the eye. Turn your head. Some people really like to reef on those placements when they bounce test. I generally give it a few sharp tugs then ease my weight over. Bounce-testing a nut can make cleaning that bad boy a real PITA for the follower. Have fun! Good point. I failed to mention that very important detail. It is good to see where it is going and how it is fitting but don't look at it while bounce testing. And minimize the bounce testing. That will get your gear stuck and your second will want a hammer. I bring along a old concrete worker's hammer with the pick and most of the head ground off. It's light and works great for those stubborn pieces. Just put your tool against the bottom of the nut and tap. Hooks are amazing when you first start using them. Especially after a few consecuative moves. Enjoy. Quote
Dru Posted March 9, 2003 Posted March 9, 2003 hooks ARE beginner aid at squamish!! or else you arent gonna get very far on that first pitch of Kanabis Wall!! Stefan, forget the TR set up, learn the real aid solo technique on a 2 clove hitch self belay. Then when your piece blows you actually fall, so you learn to place good pieces FAST. Quote
Travis Posted March 10, 2003 Posted March 10, 2003 I agree with Dru, just lead w/ a self-belay, and by all means solo the first pitch of Cannabis Wall, it's kind of a right of passage for learning aid in Squamish I think. If you can get off the ground, the rest is trivial. However, if you want a partner, pm me. Quote
Lambone Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 I bring along a old concrete worker's hammer with the pick and most of the head ground off. It's light and works great for those stubborn pieces. I use a big hex to pound the nut tool with. that way i don't piss off the clean freaks who'd be pissed if they saw a hammer... Quote
salbrecher Posted March 11, 2003 Author Posted March 11, 2003 (edited) Self belay is fine if I had a whole bunch of gear but I don't have enough not to be top roping and pulling the gear beneath me . Edited March 11, 2003 by salbrecher Quote
Dru Posted March 11, 2003 Posted March 11, 2003 Climbing a 30 m route rope-solo with a rack of 70 pieces, drill and bolts is character building. Come out to Chilliwack some time and we can tag team some unclimbed cracks out by Hope. Quote
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