Use of Cordelettes in Equalized Anchor Systems

[catbirdseat]

There have been several threads on such topics as what material to use for cordelettes, when to retire them, and even how to rack them, but none on how they are used or how often.

 

[snoboy]

Much more common in Canada methinks.

 

I like. Handy for rescue scenarios too.

 

I always have one or two on multipitch, even if I don't use them at every anchor.

[Lambone]

catbird,

 

one time I allways use cordelettes is for wall anchors which often have three fat bolts. I keep three small lockers on the bolts(BD enduros) and use one fatty pare shape for the main point. Sometimes I double that with an extra biner.

 

when I break down the anchor I take the biners off the bolts and untie the figure 8, but keep everything more or less eaqualized. Then I fold it in half and tie it in a big knot and clip it to the back of my harness. It is big and heavy, but it's aid climbing, so it seems to fit the theme.

 

The nice thing about leaving the cord equalized is when you hit the next belay you just slap on the three bolt biners, straighten it out, tie a figure 8, clip in and you are off belay and the rope is fixed. Takes about 30 seconds. Nothing bothers me more then when a leader takes 15 minutes to set up a freakin belay, especialy on a wall with luxury anchors, so I try to be as quick as I can myself. Also, just haul straight off one bolt, they are bomber.

 

In the alpine or ice climbing I ussually tie in with a rope and equalize the anchor with a double length runner. Usualy I carry a cordelette, but it is more for an emergency. A cordeleette and some pear lockers is the best thing you can have for a self rescue. Two is better, but having at least one makes a big difference.

 

For rock I use Maxim 5.5 tech cord, the stiff expensive stuff. On ice I use 6 or 7 mil cheap chord that can be cut up for threads if bailing. Hope that helps.

[chucK]

I carry one all the time, but I find I'm using it less and less. Might be time to lighten up the load.

 

Double ropes, both clipped into independent anchors, adjusted/equalized via clove hitch. That's what I use. Cordelette gets used more often when I'm climbing on a single rope.

[Bill_Simpkins]

I carry one for occasional use. It is so light and also doubles as a very very long runner. I use light 1/2 inch webbing, tied. I fold it in half and daisy-chain it up clipped to a locker for storage. Cordallettes are great if you are not swinging leads, otherwise I use the rope.

[Thinker]

I carry and use them. Besides their primary use for anchors, they're an essential piece of gear for a self-rescue scenario.

[obsydian]

I've gotten to where I carry two. Obviously one use is for a full mechanical SRENE anchor. I use them to sling big rocks for belaying. One is full 20' spectra, the other 15' 6mm cord which is actually lighter then a double sling.

[JoshK]

I can say "ditto" for basically everything lambone said. I use a 5.5 spectra cordelette on rock, and I find it really useful for slinging giant chockstones, boulders, etc. that you find on alpine routes. I also carry 6 or 7mil perlon for an ice cordelette, because, as lambone said, you can cut it up for v-threads if you forget extra material or need to bail.

 

-josh

[catbirdseat]

obsydian said:

I've gotten to where I carry two. Obviously one use is for a full mechanical SRENE anchor. I use them to sling big rocks for belaying. One is full 20' spectra, the other 15' 6mm cord which is actually lighter then a double sling.

There is nothing quicker than just throwing a cordelette around a big old boulder.

[Dru]

except simulclimbing and not belaying at all

[catbirdseat]

You've got that right.

[Necronomicon]

catbirdseat said:

obsydian said:

I've gotten to where I carry two. Obviously one use is for a full mechanical SRENE anchor. I use them to sling big rocks for belaying. One is full 20' spectra, the other 15' 6mm cord which is actually lighter then a double sling.

There is nothing quicker than just throwing a cordelette around a big old boulder.

 

Double bowline on a bight with the rope is pretty slick, if you have enough rope that is. Works great on trees.