Seeing a route and doing it

[specialed]

Maybe my choice of words were a little harsh. I'm a little cranky in the morning before my second cup of joe. Whatever

Edited March 5, 2003 by specialed

[sexual_chocolate]

specialed said:

sexual_chocolate said:

specialed said:

1. Look at feet, not hands

 

2. Keep heels down

 

3. Keep knee over foothold

 

4. keep hips balanced between feet

 

5. Mileage

 

Hmmm, I don't know about this advice.

 

1. I suppose you mean look at feet when placing them?

 

2. I think there might be too much variability to make such a generalization. My toe/heel plane tends to be perpendicular to higher when climbing.... Also, pointing the toe will often be necessary when makign a reach. And if the heel drops too much, your foot-to-rock contact strength will diminish. I'd say perpendicular or higher.

 

3. Often true, when driving off of that foot. But again, so much variation. Often you'll want the knee past the foot for maximal drive and for getting all weight on that foot, especially on high-steps.

 

4. maybe on slab to vert? While on both feet?

 

5. absolutely.

 

But try it all, and see where it takes you.

 

Sex chococolate: Stupid fuck. Of course this is a generalization! Its just good primary technique to start with. Its not like I made it up, its technique advice I've taken from climbers who climb a hell of a lot stronger than you or me. Dumb ass.

 

Hey, I didn't want to hurt your feelings so! Just pointing out what total crap your advice was .

 

I've climbed for a fairly long time, and actually climb pretty hard, so my opinion is a reflection of my own experience. It seems as though your opinions were from some "hard" climbers, not your own. I'd say question it, and then spout off when you actually get to a proficient level of climbing on your own. But if these ideas work for you, then cool. Keep on keepin on. And not to impress you or anything, but my ideas come from having onsited V8, climbed V10, worked out 5.14 etc etc.

[erik]

SEXCHOC

 

I HAVE SEEN SPECIAL STLYE .11+ TRAD WITH A HALF RACK GONE AND ROASTIN A PHATTY!

 

THOUGH HE IS A PUNK ASS

 

SPRAYFEST!!!!!

 

 

[Bug]

"Hey, I didn't want to hurt your feelings so! Just pointing out what total crap your advice was .

 

I've climbed for a fairly long time, and actually climb pretty hard, so my opinion is a reflection of my own experience. It seems as though your opinions were from some "hard" climbers, not your own. I'd say question it, and then spout off when you actually get to a proficient level of climbing on your own. But if these ideas work for you, then cool. Keep on keepin on. And not to impress you or anything, but my ideas come from having onsited V8, climbed V10, worked out 5.14 etc etc. "

 

OK but have you ever climbed outside?

 

 

[specialed]

 

I've climbed for a fairly long time, and actually climb pretty hard, so my opinion is a reflection of my own experience. It seems as though your opinions were from some "hard" climbers, not your own. I'd say question it, and then spout off when you actually get to a proficient level of climbing on your own. But if these ideas work for you, then cool. Keep on keepin on. And not to impress you or anything, but my ideas come from having onsited V8, climbed V10, worked out 5.14 etc etc.

 

Dude whatever. I climb hard. You climb harder. Who cares. Yes some of my "pointers" were taught to me by an old slabmaster with amazing footwork. But it totally works for me to think about climbing within that framework too. Sorry for being a prick this morning. No worries, look forward to havin a sometime yo.