Inspiration Peak - East Ridge 7/21/2024

[Nick Sweeney]

The East Ridge of Inspiration makes for a rugged and unforgettable trip - it’s just so cool up there! Full TR with photos on my site: SPOKALPINE

Gear Notes

-Gear: Crampons, ice axe, 70m single rope, one set of nuts, cams .2-3 with doubles of 2 and 3. 

-Make sure to bring extra cord to leave on rappel anchors.

-For pretty much all alpine rock routes in the Cascades, I prefer to use a highly breathable approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX3 along with aluminum crampons as my approach footwear. It was exceedingly hot during this trip and I really appreciated the breathability on the big hiking days. I find that Goretex or leather approach shoes tend to get wet and stay wet on multi-day trips, while breathable shoes will get wet and dry out relatively quickly.

Strategy Notes

-Terror Basin is located within North Cascades National Park and requires an overnight permit which you can get from the ranger station in Marblemount. 

-The approach and hike out deserve their own day on either end of your trip.

-The glacier is mellow. Roping up is still a smart call.

[eeelip]

Looks awesome. Would consider the West Ridge worth doing? My partner and I are right on the cusp of trying some 5.9’s but still wanting to build a little more confidence.

[Rad]

@eeelip I did the E Ridge BITD and remember the upper section of the West ridge gully as quite sketchy. Piles of loose stones from baseball to refrigerator size are poised at a critical angle. Moving one stone sets off many others, including large ones. Might be OK early season w snow there. Perhaps @Nick Sweeney avoided this? I've heard the S face route is a high quality line. See:  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108154541/south-face. But honestly, you could just go climb the E Ridge. If you have to hang or yard on gear once or twice who cares? You'll still be on the incredible E Face, whose position is unbeatable. You can even bivy on the summit, as we did, if needed.  Our trip: 

 

 

[JasonG]

I didn't like the full west ridge route.  The upper part is great, but the gully below it could easily kill you.  The South face route is the best according to Steph! (I liked it too).  But, I probably won't climb Inspiration 3 times to confirm Steph's opinion.