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[TR] Mount Rainier - Curtis Ridge 05/29/2023


geosean

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Trip: Mount Rainier - Curtis Ridge

Trip Date: 05/29/2023

Trip Report:

We failed utterly, this is a conditions report. 

 

We went in at the tail end of the Memorial Day weekend hoping to climb Curtis Ridge but the route was super melted out so we ended up doing the Emmons instead. After two attempts over the years my realization is that this is an earlier season snow route. I believe I will try again someday in April or even March.

We were suspicious after hearing that lots of people were turning back from Liberty so we decided at least to get to 10,300' at the do or die rappel point. From here you get an excellent view of the whole route. We bailed, crossing the Winthrop glacier at 8600' to Schurman.

The lower two traverses appear to be largely rock, it's hard to tell because I haven't actually done the route but the exit gullies appear to be mostly rock as well.

20230530_123633.jpg.fa9c691d0baa0f1ae5a6dcd5a1669b5a.jpg

 

 

20230530_123633.jpg.fa9c691d0baa0f1ae5a6dcd5a1669b5a.jpg

 

20230530_123656.jpg

Gear Notes:
Between five of us we carried 2 30M ropes, two small racks, glacier gear, two tools each.

Approach Notes:
Piece of cake once the road is open to the trailhead. Usually May 25th.
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Yes it definitely looks pretty melted out already.  This is similar timing to when we did it back in 2014 but in general I think those routes are coming into shape earlier and earlier now.  Go give it a go in April and let us know how it goes!

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IMG_1569.JPG.6ec9308322662366a611430f576ed759.JPGIt must have been you we met at the WR ranger station after abandoning our plan to climb Liberty Ridge based on the "field report". Your pics make me feel pretty good about that decision. I can sympathise about your situation, having baled off of Curtis three times. It really looks "out" this year. Glad you got a concilation climb on the Emmons. We drove around to Paradise and climbed the Kautz. It was in good shape and pure type 1 fun.

Image is from 6/29/22

Edited by bigeo
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