Lambone Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 So I'm sure it is some big local secret, but who is willing to spill the beans on where this "Plastic fantastic Lover" thing comes in. It looks fun... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 17, 2001 Share Posted October 17, 2001 Â 'Bone, It is highly visible from Castle Rock. -Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 17, 2001 Author Share Posted October 17, 2001 Sweet, I'm there. Nice photo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 18, 2001 Author Share Posted October 18, 2001 Oh yeah, where's that one called Reqium for the Post Modern World at... Looks like Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 "Requiem For The Post Modern World" forms in fortunate years about a 1/2 mile south of Rocky Reach Dam on Hwy 97A about 300 feet off the road. As far as I know the route has had only one ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 18, 2001 Author Share Posted October 18, 2001 Hmm, not exactly sure where that is, never been there. Oh well, I'll find it someday... I visited Banks last year and I'd have to say that I was quite impressed, for being out in the desert and all. It looks like there are tons of posibilities out there. Has anyone ever scoped out that thing right across from the pull out/ state picnic area, by The Cable and Absent-Minded Professor Area. Mabye its called Zenith or something. It is a big flow with two steps, that was quite a ways from touching down last year. Anyway, I didn't hike up under it, but the rock didn't look so bad from the road(about 200 ft away!). I'm thinkin why wait for the thing to touch down! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-18-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by lambone: Hmm, not exactly sure where that is, About 2 or 3 miles north of Wenatchee toward Chelan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 18, 2001 Author Share Posted October 18, 2001 Hey Retro, Thanks for the tip. Oh, and if I slam bolts into the choss under that big fat flow at Banks, please don't rip 'um out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by lambone: Has anyone ever scoped out that thing right across from the pull out/ state picnic area, by The Cable and Absent-Minded Professor Area. Mabye its called Zenith or something. (edited 10-18-2001).] Not quite sure which you're referring to. I did climb Zenith this last season (pictured but misnamed on page 98 of nelson's vol.2). The first pitch of it kept falling off. Or it could be Salt and Pepper which as far as I know has never touched down and was climbed this last season by Bruce White and Paul Detrick by climbing up a rotten rock ramp on the left. Salt and Pepper forms further south much nearer The Cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 While we are at it.. Retro do you know about any of the falls near Lake Wesnatchee? I know some dudes that climbed one last year. Homey took a screamer about 80 feet heheheh. However he can't tell me where it is exaclty. He said he will take me up there this winter. Just curious and wanted to get the word out if it comes in regularly..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ...any of the falls near Lake Wesnatchee? ... Don't know any info on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 Lambone, you are referring to Salt and Pepper, It didnt touch down last winter, but as Mitch said you can climb the rotten rock on the left hand side. My partner and I did this a week after the FA, the rock was terrible, bring pins, nuts and #3 camalot. Zenith is similar in length and character, further up the road. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 18, 2001 Author Share Posted October 18, 2001 Yes thats it! That thing looks rad, so it's never touched down??? I'm assuming that the snow patch on the left is the ramp you are refering to. I wonder if a line straight up the cave would go? I know the rock's bad, but it can't be as bad as some of the shit in Hyalite. Ever seen two equalized bolts before!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 No its never touched down to my knowledge. The snowpatch is the start of the rock ramp, which traverses up and right to a small vertical move above a terrible (R/X) landing. After the crux you get a #3 camalot, the only solid pro on the entire pitch, and then lead up lower angled ground to an ice screw belay just left of the main ice flow. Last winter was a very strange one out at Banks, many things formed that had never formed before. "I know the rock's bad, but it can't be as bad as some of the shit in Hyalite." I would try out the regular bypass before you go for the "Salt and Pepper Direct". You might be very surprised at how bad this rock is... Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 i think lambone was just inspired by sean issac's slideshow the other night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 I have never heard of Sean Issac.... Who is he anyways. I have heard of Will Gadd, Stevie Haston, Mark Wilford and Jeff Lowe as being accomplished ice climbers..... Who is this dude? Some Local? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeadam Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 Caveman, Sean Issac is one of Sean E's bros. He cranks HARD. He's Canadian eh... [This message has been edited by mikeadam (edited 10-18-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted October 18, 2001 Share Posted October 18, 2001 and whats more, his most famous route? (drumroll please...) CAVEMAN M9+ (i'm not making this up) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 19, 2001 Author Share Posted October 19, 2001 Forrest, Actually my original inspiration is a guy named Pete from Bozeman. He's taught me most of what I know about mixed climbing and establishing sport/ice routes. You may have seen a photo of Alex on Pete's route "Bulldog world", climbing 20 horizontal ft out the cave of the classic (never touches down) "Bingo World." Alex got all the photo shoots and mag hype for most of Pete's hard routes. He also put up a direct start to Alex's "Responsible Family Man." I can't remember what he called the route, something about a Delinquant Teenager. As far as I know Will Gad made the first and only acsent one day with Pete as a belayer. He called it 8+ or 9 or something...the rock is total shit, its the one with equalized bolts! Pete's just chillin now, rasing a family and playin the guitar. We did the North Ridge on Stuart together in August. And yes I did enjoy Sean's show, it reminded me of the days when I'd work routes with Pete. (mostly as a belay slave ) Mixed climbing is hella dope yo!!! Someday I'd like to apply what I've learned from Pete in Patagonia or the Waddington Range. But for now I'm just learnin' Geography. I would have been at your show if I wasn't stuck in class, I was bummed to miss it. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-20-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 22, 2001 Share Posted October 22, 2001 quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: and whats more, his most famous route? (drumroll please...) CAVEMAN M9+ (i'm not making this up) Featuring 10 m of rock roof to a dead tree 'coated with ice' [sic] Bro Sean was called an "aid climbing rapist" in the latest AAJ! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 22, 2001 Share Posted October 22, 2001 quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: and whats more, his most famous route? (drumroll please...) CAVEMAN M9+ (i'm not making this up) He obviously knows how to name his routes. Maybe if I meet him I can give him a lesson or three to get him over the edge and outclimb Stevie Haston next season. He'll have to bone up on his one arm curls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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