Denali 2022

[slee126]

Looking to join a party or start a new party for Denali west butteess in may/June 2022. .  Comfortable glacier travel crevasse rescue and have good endurance.   If interested please contact me slee126@ucsc.edu

[DoStuff]

Will you do be doing it on ski or snowshoes and where are you located?  I'd prefer a skiing party, but could be convinced it doesn't matter.    

I'm interested in those dates, and have all the experience, fitness, and gear.  I'm in Seattle.  

[jorvack]

Also looking to go.  My partner hurt his knee day one last year so looking to head back. Hit me up.

[Noah Lang]

Here's a link about my unguided experience from last year. I think it's got a lot of good advice on food, gear, expectations, stories, the route, and a bunch of other stuff. It should be an easier read than some of the books.

https://noahlangphotography.com/blog/west-buttress-denali-national-park

Edited April 13, 2023 by Noah Lang

[DPS]

You presented some seriously bad information in your blog post, just straight up wrong. You should not be giving any kind of advice on climbing. Guides were snapping at you because you were doing something stupid. I also take umbrage of your description of guides. The guides I know want to give their guests the best possible experience, not just take their guests' money. 

"Another significant reason I would not do it guided is that their priority is not to get you to the summit safely. ... if a guide happens to be doing multiple trips in a season, their priority may be to get their next group started and your trip over with. Meaning they need to get your team off of the mountain so that they can start their next group of clients and take their money."

Edited December 13, 2021 by DPS

[Kevin_Runolfson]

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Edited January 4, 2022 by Kevin_Runolfson

[needtoclimb]

I read Noah's blog and its pretty good.  I like the detail, the photos', etc.  It is his blog so he is entitled to his opinion.  He sounds young and I remember being young, invincible and judgmental too.   25+ years of climbing experience changes a person's perspective so while I may not agree with everything Noah writes, I understand why he is writing it.

I can't necessarily disagree 100% with his perception of guides.  A few years back I was leading a group of inexperienced climbers up Rainier and leapfrogging a RMI group as we took breaks.  After one break, we were moving slow and one of the RMI teams decided to pass us by cross through our rope team!   Yup, crossed his entire team right between my 2 and 3rd person, with all his clients stepping on our rope.   When I called him out, he challenged me to a fight at 12,000 feet.  After the climb I had a long discussion with RMI managers back at their HQ's and they knew exactly who I was talking about since they have had issues with him before.   That being said, I having nothing against RMI.  I first climbed Rainier with my dad in 1996 under RMI's tutelage, and I still remember the trip and the really good guides we had.

There are good guides out there and bad.  But many of the guides I have come across are just tired of dealing with climbers trying to either mooch free training/advice from them or just follow in their footsteps.   I was at Camp Sherman a few years ago on an independent  climb and a guide was sitting among the rocks talking to his clients.  I sat back just to listen to him and gleam any insights he had on the route conditions.    Independent climbers kept coming over and asking all sorts of technical/weather/stupid questions.  The guide gave them very curt replies and continued to advise/train his clients.   I didn't mind his attitude at all.  His clients paid for his services and independent climbers were trying to get it for free.  So it really does go both ways:  prick guides and prick independent climbers.  Noah is a little harsh on the "Take your money" thing so either he had a bad experience with a paid guide or never had a good paid guide.  A good guide is well worth the money, a bad one should be left in a crevasse with nothing but a bottle of hot sauce and a box of toothpicks.

Anyway, enjoyed your write up Noah.   

And just to add to this thread, I am interested in Denali this year.  I am not getting younger so I am reaching a now or never stage.   If anyone is still looking for partners or teams, give me a holler at kevindenali2019@gmail.com.   (Had 2019 plans fail when my partner had to call it quits a month before our climb due to family issues.)

[Jaysen Niedermeyer]

Hey Everyone,

My partner and I are teeing up to do the Full West Rib or the Cassin ridge in May 2022 pending some logistics and are potentially looking for a third if they're Seattle based. If anyone is interested in one of the more technical routes up Denali, and is versed, call or text me at 206819165five

 

Cheers

 

Jaysen