[TR] Mt Baring 2-fer (north and south peaks) - Standard 05/19/2019

[needtoclimb]

Trip: Mt Baring 2-fer (north and south peaks) - Standard

Trip Date: 05/19/2019

Trip Report:

Chris and my original plan was a ski ascent of Baker, but with changing weather coming in over the weekend, we decided to do something lower and less likely to be in the clouds.  We chose Baring Peak for a day outing.   Having hiked Baring before, I wanted to spice it up by climbing the rarely-summited south peak as well.  We came prepared for any conditions with two axes, pickets, crampons and rock pro.   Some people call it overkill.  We called it training weight.

We reached Barlcay Lake trailhead and started up the trail.  The approach was still as steep as I remembered, reminiscent of climbing trees in my childhood.  It is more root than trail.

We made snow-covered gully without incident and headed up.  The snow was perfect for kicking steps and we made the notch easily.

Snow gully.  Baring on the left, south Baring on the right.

 

We scouted the south route, which comes right out of the notch.  It looked very doable with a couple snow patches broken by a couple rock steps.  We couldn't see above the rocks steps though, so we hiked Baring proper to get a good look at the whole route.  Baring was still all snow, but again solid snow that allowed easy steps.  We headed down and geared up at the notch.

We brought a single 8.2mm twin rope and folded it over.   With the amount of trees and possible meandering, I didn't see the point of trying to pitch out 200 feet and deal with the rope drag.  I offered Chris the leads and he offered them right back to me.   I guess I was leading.   The first twp pitches were muddy rock and thin snow without much protection other than slinging trees.  The rock horns were loose and the snow too shallow and soft for pickets.  It was easy climbing though, something like higher-upper 4th class.  ( I want to call it low 5th for egotistical purposes, but it wasn't.)

The route from the notch.  The stars are the belays.   Each belay had good tat with a newer rap ring around a solid tree.  The letters line up with photos further down.

 

Chris following the snow finger marked A.

The upper route.   We chose a narrow chute between two rock outcropping.  It was steep and rather thin snow coverage.  Going climbers right would have been safer but longer.  We rapped down the chute.

 

Chris climbing the snow chute marked B on the above photos.

 

Obligatory summit photo.

 

 

We hiked down the upper snow and did three raps to get down.  The trees ate the rope like a lion with lollipop, so the descent wasn't much faster than going up.   The way out was steeper than the way up (I don't know the physics behind it, but somehow the approach trail got steeper) and my knees screamed and almost quit.  I gave my knees some pep talks, and they carried me down the root trail and back out to the car.   It was a fun trip, but not something I ever need to do again.

Gear Notes:
ice axes, lots of long runners. Did not use crampons or pickets

Approach Notes:
Steep. Very very steep. Make your knees cry steep.

Edited May 21, 2019 by needtoclimb

[Bronco]

Me and a buddy did Mt. Baring main peak and then south peak in the fall of 2002 but I don't remember anything more than scrambling around on the SW aspect.  Looks better with some snow on it.

I was recently thinking of the Skykomish Valley version of the "North Bend Triple" and think a fit scrambler could do Gunn-Merchant-Baring in a day.  You could be set up to re-supply at a vehicle between peaks.  Approximately 22 miles and 12,000' vert, probably doable in a day but I'd take a headlamp for sure.  Someone has probably done it.

[kmfoerster]

That trail is a quad blaster for sure.