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mgetlin

[TR] Dragontail - TC 05/01/2018

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Trip: Dragontail - TC

Trip Date: 05/01/2018

Trip Report:

Quick conditions update for anyone looking to snag some last minute ice...there isn’t any! Jacob and i climbed TC yesterday and the runnels were mostly dry with small bits of delaminating ice and rotten snow. It was pretty heady and took a while. 

Theres 

Gear Notes:
We used a stubby twice. Lots of pins and cams.

Approach Notes:
Open the stinking road already!
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27 minutes ago, mgetlin said:

Open the stinking road already!

This is a pet peeve of mine in the spring.

Nice work on the runnels, sounds spicy!

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It's been cold on the east side all spring.  Very little freeze/thaw happening.  Not surprising there's no ice yet. 

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On 4/22 NW face route between Backbone and Serpentine was quite dry, too.

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On 5/2/2018 at 3:10 PM, mgetlin said:

Trip: Dragontail - TC

Trip Date: 05/01/2018

Trip Report:

 

Quick conditions update for anyone looking to snag some last minute ice...there isn’t any! Jacob and i climbed TC yesterday and the runnels were mostly dry with small bits of delaminating ice and rotten snow. It was pretty heady and took a while. 

 

Theres 

Gear Notes:
We used a stubby twice. Lots of pins and cams.

Approach Notes:
Open the stinking road already!

Awesome dude! We bailed after P1 on the runnels and left a picket. Were you the two my partner and I saw camped at the lake on night of 5/3 after we came down? 

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On 5/11/2018 at 12:34 PM, Johnnyleemd said:

Awesome dude! We bailed after P1 on the runnels and left a picket. Were you the two my partner and I saw camped at the lake on night of 5/3 after we came down? 

We were there the night of the 30th and climbed the route on the 1st (I think). That little bit at the start of the second runnels pitch was the business! I was pretty stoked when it was Jacob's turn on that one :)

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Yea P2 the wet slab without ice I couldn’t get across. Very impressed that you guys did!!

can you send post photos of your trip. Specifically after P2 that would be appreciated buddy!

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On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 12:43 AM, telemarker said:

It's been cold on the east side all spring.  Very little freeze/thaw happening.  Not surprising there's no ice yet. 

I think you missed the ice.  The first time I went into do TC was 25 years ago, and it was fat in February.  Last time I climbed it was not in condition until April, and then only for a few weeks.  Now it seams like the window is around mid April and only lasts a two weekends. 

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On ‎5‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 12:42 PM, DPS said:

Now it seams like the window is around mid April and only lasts a two weekends. 

I climbed it on May 16th 2017, ice was fat.

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