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New-Matic Bindings


cjain

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Anyone use new-matic bindings for doing vertical ice/mixed? How well do they handle compared to normal step-ins?

 

I'm planning on getting a pair of Grivel G14s to replace my ancient Grivel 2Fs and can either go crampomatic or new-matic...

 

 

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Last friday I used a pair of Grivel G-12 new-matic crampons on an 800m snow/ice chute. They are great on hard snow, but tended to rattle a bit when kicking into hard vertical ice, but I was also wearing lightweight leather boots (trango plus). For easy mixed they are good as well, the horizontal front points can make it less wobbly to stand on small holds than vertical points. If you are mostly climbing routes that don't have tons of vertical ice then they are great. But for really technical ice (anything above grade III for me) or hard mixed I tend towards full step in crampons. Oh yeah, new-matics are also really great on glacier ice. Really I think it is mostly mind over matter. If you don't mind, it don't matter which crampons you got on, just climb it.

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I've got a pair of G14's and so far I love them. They feel very stable on the foot and the points are burly. They are nice in the mono set up as well.

 

They handle vertical ice like champs, and I'd highly recomend them.

 

Pro mountain Sports is the only shop that I've seen the Newmatic version at.

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