firebeard Posted September 29, 2017 Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) 4 hours from car to camp at 6800 ft Sunday 24 Hours from Camp to Car Monday Left camp at 6:30 a.m. We were able to avoid the glacier all together except for about 50 yards right before we gained the large rock feature that leads up to the couloir and gullies which take you to the notch of the west ridge. Ascended the "cat scratch gully" which was the first gulley to the left of the standard couloir ascent. Simuled the gulley in one simul pitch to the notch. Once at the notch we hit consistent snow the rest of the climb. We simuled the first two pitches from the notch but the snow added another level of difficulty that we felt would be better handled by pitching out the last of the climb. The climbing was pretty exciting with the extra challenge of snow. We hit the summit at 2:00 well behind schedule and quickly began rappelling back down. We finally got back to the glacier at about 10:00 pm. It was a long slow cold descent. The day was beginning to turn into an epic. To add to the joy of our day it took us 3 hours to find our tent after getting off the glacier. We must have walked right by it numerous times. We were packed up and hiking back to the car by 1:30. Hit the car at 6:00 a.m. Gear: Set of nuts, .4 - 2 cams, and 12 slings Camp at 6800 ft Alternate Gulley Approach to Ridge High Up on The Ridge Edited September 29, 2017 by firebeard Quote
JasonG Posted September 29, 2017 Posted September 29, 2017 Sigh. Sorry! Try this, maybe? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152 If not, send me a PM and we can get the content up! Promise. Quote
JasonG Posted September 29, 2017 Posted September 29, 2017 Wow, that is a serious effort! Glad it all turned out OK, and thanks for persevering on the TR bugs. Quote
geosean Posted September 30, 2017 Posted September 30, 2017 That's awesome. Nice work pushing through. Quote
goatboy Posted October 7, 2017 Posted October 7, 2017 Wow -- Cat Scratch really looks "aesthetic," huh? No wonder I've never been up that damn thing. Way to persevere and climb a classic route in shoulder season conditions for sure. Quote
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