Squamish Climbing

[StreetBoss]

Need some beta!

 

So I used to climb at Squamish a lot. Like all through the 90's and used to know all areas and most of the routes.

 

BUT

 

Haven't been there in 10 years so I know there been lots of changes, upgrades and more folks climb. I've kept up with climbing so the grades are not the problem. What I'm hoping to find out is:

 

If we drive from Seattle to Squamish on a Saturday morning and climb the rest of the day, are the Smoke Bluffs or Penny Lane like out of the question because it will be insanely busy? What about parking?

 

Here's a throw back story. There was a forest road next to the established campground back in the day. We'd climb The Grand or Exasperator then chill with a camp fire. Now there is a beautiful tent campground. And oh yeah, back then Diedre used to be a wilderness experience.

 

Peace

[bstach]

HAHAHAHAHAH...its a fucking donkey show now.

 

If you come after 10:00am you won't get a spot at Murrin.

 

if you come after 10:30am you won't get a spot in the expanded Smoke Bluff parking lot (but maybe across the street?)

 

You can guess what that means for line ups at Neat and Cool.

 

 

Edited July 25, 2017 by bstach

[bstach]

What is considered the most comprehensive guide nowadays? Or best coverage of new route development in the last ten years?

 

The most recent guide I have is The Climbers Guide to Squamish by Kevin McLane published in 2005. And also Whistler Rock Climbs / Squamish North Sport Guidebook by Kevin McLane published 2000

Edited July 25, 2017 by bstach

[DPS]

And oh yeah, back then Diedre used to be a wilderness experience.

 

 

And the pitons were still probably still in place.

[G-spotter]

What is considered the most comprehensive guide nowadays? Or best coverage of new route development in the last ten years?

 

The most recenbt Bourdon Squamish Select and/or the Quickdraw Pubs web update topos page

[marc_leclerc]

It is quite a bit busier than it used to be. The energy of the place is good though and you don't have to look to far outside the box to find quiet.

 

Parking can be horrendous. Parking in town, or near the North Walls and riding a bike is often a nice option.

[rl23455]

The most recent book I know is Squamish Select(2012 edition) by Marc Bourdon. Kevin McLane book is out of print, but you can sometimes get it for $70 used.

I was just up there last weekend(7/21/17), rainy. We went for Skywalker on Sunday at 8 am and there were 4 parties ahead of us already, we had a 2 hour wait to climb it. But it would have been too much effort to drive and climb another route.

 

[StreetBoss]

HAHAHAHAHAH...its a fucking donkey show now.

 

If you come after 10:00am you won't get a spot at Murrin.

 

if you come after 10:30am you won't get a spot in the expanded Smoke Bluff parking lot (but maybe across the street?)

 

You can guess what that means for line ups at Neat and Cool.

 

 

Update:

 

Climbed at The Smoke Bluffs one day last week. It was during the week and NO ONE was there. Felt melancholy from years ago when we could walk up and do any of the routes. So, that's just what we did. Wonderful Day.

 

Climbed at a newer area called Area 44 - the easy approach and route descriptions at the base were eerily like the Brian Burdo crags at Little Si and Mazama. Relatively crowded, meaning any 5.11 was open, and many 5.10 climbs available. The rock climbs like the formerly mentioned as well. Good experience.

 

climb the Grand via Apron Strings. Shuffling along Bellygood ledge I was nearly in tears because it had been so long since I've been up the route and one of such high quality. Did this on a Tuesday with only one party two pitches behind us.

 

The smoke in the area made for lousy views when hiking with the family. The High Note Trail is spectacular. Also hiked the second peak of The Chief. Great trip.

 

[JohnyBlaze999]

 am a climber in the UK. Someone I know has just started a world tour and is looking to find climbing partners for Squamish/Canada.

[Off_White]

I'm sure there is a board that is much more Squamish oriented, perhaps a better place for your friend to look. If they wanted to climb at Index this is probably the place to look for partners. 

[G-spotter]

https://www.squamishchief.com/discover-squamish/human-feces-laced-with-thc-sickens-squamish-dogs-1.23512057?fbclid=IwAR0XAte-3VaV2yCCz3bnkxjFSsSzScxGa9DzmvthfThqsfXNog6T93wZ1gQ