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lutzman

[TR] Forbidden - West Ridge 6/17/2017

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Trip: Forbidden - West Ridge

 

Date: 6/17/2017

 

Trip Report:

Made use of the somewhat finicky forecast Saturday by climbing the forbidden west ridge. Glad we did as the route is in good shape, we moved reasonably quick overall and we didn't see a single other party on route. Road is still gated at MP 21 so there was an additional 30 minutes of walking to the trailhead but the trail is in good condition. Creeks were easy to cross and the trail is almost entirely snow free to the last big creek which we were able to easily pass over on snow.

 

Despite a couple small moats starting to open, the ridge gully is in good condition and should be for a while. From the notch, we were able to climb snow free rock almost entirely to the summit by staying on the crest. Lower down on the north side of the ridge there is still considerable snow, but the ridge proper was predominately dry.

 

Although the weather was mostly great, it did get chilly, however the wind and clouds that were blowing over the ridge added to the flavor, making the climb extra atmospheric and alpine feeling. It took us about 2 hours to climb to the summit from the notch and it was about the same time on the way back. We did 3 short rappels and a couple simul blocks to the notch. After putting our crampons back on we did 3 more rappels into the gully followed by a short downclimb.

 

After slogging back down the trail we were back at the car after about 15.5 hours car to car. Had some beers and drove back to Seattle. Great day overall.

 

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Gear Notes:

5 medium nuts

5 cams .3-1

1 picket

 

Approach Notes:

Road gated at MP 21

last creek easily passable on snow

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Nice work! My wife and I did Forbidden West Ridge in a day last year, big day!

 

Did you get any photos of the Torment Forbidden Traverse?

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Excellent! Perhaps my favorite mountain to climb in the North Cascades, it is nice to see that Forbidden is coming into shape. Love the pic of the NW face, more should check that route out- it's a grand adventure.

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Thanks for the great TR. heading up in a week, rethinking camping...looks like boston basin maybe completely snow covered still. perhaps better as a long day trip?

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Nice work! My wife and I did Forbidden West Ridge in a day last year, big day!

 

Did you get any photos of the Torment Forbidden Traverse?

 

For us, Forbidden in a day is a big day! I can hardly imagine the TFT in that time.

 

Here's a photo of the traverse

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Excellent! Perhaps my favorite mountain to climb in the North Cascades, it is nice to see that Forbidden is coming into shape. Love the pic of the NW face, more should check that route out- it's a grand adventure.

 

NW face seems to be becoming more popular, I've heard many claim its the best route on the mountain! Will definitely have to check it out one of these days

 

Nice! Interesting that there's a bit of ice there (particularly in your false summit pic) that wasn't there a couple of weeks ago.

That was completely dry on the 3rd: http://peakbagger.com/climber/ascent.aspx?aid=810218

 

There was a fair amount of that stuff on the route but it didn't give us too much trouble. Thanks for your report on peakbagger, we were happy to have your beta before the trip!

 

Thanks for the great TR. heading up in a week, rethinking camping...looks like boston basin maybe completely snow covered still. perhaps better as a long day trip?

 

I think its a matter of preference, I don't mind camping in the snow and we did see a guide group camping down low in the basin to do some other stuff but on the other hand, it really wasn't too bad doing it in a day!

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You know "many" that have climbed the NW face? That does surprise me. It really feels like you are off the beaten track on it, but I climbed it years ago.

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no not many at all pretty few in fact. but everything I hear or read is good. which is high praise considering the east and west ridges are some of the best climbs i've ever done.

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Ah, yes, I interpreted your comment wrong. It is quite good. Certainly on par with the east and west ridges, if only for the outrageous positions. Rock quality is a bit less, but still fine.

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Greta TR!

 

I'll throw in a vote for the N ridge! That was a great climb although my only one (Descended the W ridge). Maybe NW face and E ridge are better in which case you can't go wrong on this mountain.

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Oh, the North Ridge is high quality as well!

 

Aside from Stuart, I can't think of another mountain in the Cascades with as many five star routes (OK, maybe Prusik?).

 

But none match the alpine ambiance of Forbidden.

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