lutzman Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 Trip: Forbidden - West Ridge Date: 6/17/2017 Trip Report: Made use of the somewhat finicky forecast Saturday by climbing the forbidden west ridge. Glad we did as the route is in good shape, we moved reasonably quick overall and we didn't see a single other party on route. Road is still gated at MP 21 so there was an additional 30 minutes of walking to the trailhead but the trail is in good condition. Creeks were easy to cross and the trail is almost entirely snow free to the last big creek which we were able to easily pass over on snow. Despite a couple small moats starting to open, the ridge gully is in good condition and should be for a while. From the notch, we were able to climb snow free rock almost entirely to the summit by staying on the crest. Lower down on the north side of the ridge there is still considerable snow, but the ridge proper was predominately dry. Although the weather was mostly great, it did get chilly, however the wind and clouds that were blowing over the ridge added to the flavor, making the climb extra atmospheric and alpine feeling. It took us about 2 hours to climb to the summit from the notch and it was about the same time on the way back. We did 3 short rappels and a couple simul blocks to the notch. After putting our crampons back on we did 3 more rappels into the gully followed by a short downclimb. After slogging back down the trail we were back at the car after about 15.5 hours car to car. Had some beers and drove back to Seattle. Great day overall. Gear Notes: 5 medium nuts 5 cams .3-1 1 picket Approach Notes: Road gated at MP 21 last creek easily passable on snow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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