[TR] Mt Hood - Cooper Spur via Newton Glacier 6/4/2017

[bonathanjarrett]

My partner and I climbed Cooper Spur by traversing in across the Newton Glacier from Timerberline on Sunday. I don't know why more people don't do it this way. It was easy, scenic, and quick to access.

 

Some details on how we did it. We crossed the Whiteriver Glacier at 8,800' and did a rising traverse up on to the spur below Wy'East at about 9,300' There was some minor rock fall here, but jogging across the 200' danger zone minimized the danger. From the spur, we made a nearly level traverse across the Newton Glacier at about 9,400'. There was minimal crevass danger, but we roped up for prudence's sake. At the north end of the glacier, we accessed the Cooper Spur beneath a minor rock buttress at about 9,600'. This spot gave us a place to unrope and take a short rest. From there we wound up and right on to the spur itself and then ascended to the summit without issue.

 

In terms of timing, we left Timberline shortly before 4AM, made it across the Newton Glacier in three hours, and were on the summit shortly after 8AM.

 

Granted we did not climb the whole Cooper Spur and avoided the lower, low-angled slopes. This was by far and away made up for by the fact that crossing the east flank is scenic and wild-feeling. Early season, before accessing Wy'East becomes dangerous from rock fall, this would be the preferred method for getting to Cooper Spur, in my opinion. The perception that it is on the other side of the mountain from Timberline is unwarranted. The spur actually has a NE orientation.

 

The whole experience was improved by the fact that we were in the lee of the mountain the whole time; it was windless and almost warm in the sunshine.

Edited June 5, 2017 by bonathanjarrett

[diepj]

Thanks for posting the report and sharing the beta!

 

CS is a route I haven't done yet and a lot of it stemmed from the fact that the route didn't feel like a worthwhile return for the investment of a north side approach. I think I might have to try it this way.

[ivan]

the remotish approach from the n side is at least half of what makes this route cool (not to detract from the OP) - this time of year is kinda, when the cloud cap road is closed, perfect - one day of appraoch via tilly-jane to a sweet, lonely camp high up on the spur - then a cool solo ascent to a suddenly crowded summit, followed by another long, lonely descent to home...

 

the north side is magical, though the crowded insanity of the s side certainly has it virtues

[ScaredSilly]

I have to agree with Ivan, there is a lot to be said about the virtues of the north side approach. That said twice after doing north side routes I have come around via the Newton Clark to get back to Cloud Cap. That too has its virtues.

 

Fortunately, both times in doing north side routes I have had the pleasure of summiting with no one else around. Once was a solo ascent and I literally had the whole hill to myself, no footprints too boot.

 

That said good on the OP in exploring the hill.