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FA - Helms Deep - The Stairs of Cirith Ungol - 6 pitches, 5.11c Since I stumbled on Helms Deep back in 2021 I always wanted do a route up the most continuous section of the wall. In fact I was looking for a wall on which to establish a multi pitch when I found it, not necessarily steep single pitch sport climbing which is what HD seems to have gained the most traction with. A lack of experience, partners, and general sense of fear kept me from taking any action. Fast forward to August 2023 and I had worked up an extra bit of development experience establishing 4 easy multi pitch routes on the neighboring Spouse Wall and numerous single pitch routes in the Snoqualmie Valley. I also had some time off work. Day 1: I made plans known to my rock climbing / route-development group-text and Trevor agreed to come along, I think mostly because he felt bad for me. We met at the Pratt Balcony Trailhead each with two 60m+ ropes, a drill, 10+ bolts, and more in our packs. We made the 1.6mi/1500ft approach at the slowest pace of the summer but we were in good spirits. The climber's path to the base is beat in and, as usual, we saved some weight by filtering water at the creek crossing around 2000'. At the base of the wall we took a quick break then began a torturous shwack, contouring climbers right towards the top of the wall. Eventually, we hit the top of the rightmost end of the cliff-top, but given the shape of the outcrop we were really only ~1/3 of the way up. The ground is far from flat up there. We worked our way back climbers left, squirming up exposed 50+ degree Salal bushes. All with drilling gear and ropes on our backs. There were some moments fear and danger up there but we pushed through. We eventually cliffed-out and threw on our harnesses. I placed a bolt and started self belaying up and out on to the face. Once I got a few bolts ahead of Trevor he started jugging behind me. I think he spent a lot of time untangling the 3 additional ropes we had as well. I made it to a point where I was on the line I wanted to establish but about a pitch from the top. We decided to save topping-out for another day and began the process of rappelling, bolting, and fixing lines. Things from here went pretty smoothly, especially with Trevor handling tangled mess of ropes and passing me additional gear when I needed it. The rock ended up being relatively steep and overhanging places. I like steep climbing but cleaning and bolting is a bit more annoying when things are overhanging. The upper pitches were very clean already but there was a fair number of loose blocks hanging around lower down. We found ourselves back on the ledge earlier in the day than we thought we would, but too tired to climb so we hiked down. Days 2-6: Over the next few weeks I spent another 5 days jugging lines, bolting, and cleaning; all pretty much solo. On Day 2 I jugged to our high point and bolted what became pitches 4 and 5. Jugging 140 meters with bolting gear sucks but both pitches were mostly clean already and have great rock. On Day 3 I bolted p3 and p2. These pitches needed a bit more cleaning so I spent some time doing that as well. On day 4 I decided push the route to the top. The climbing up there is really easy but I wanted the satisfaction of topping out. This meant jugging 140 meters to our high point again with my heavy-ass bosch drill. Once at the high point I put on some climbing shoes and self-belayed with a gri gri as I made my way up what became p6. I hadn't really bolted from stances on lead before but it went well, kind of like placing ice screws 😜. Day 5 I spent cleaning the lower part of P3. I noticed one of the fixed lines had begun smelling like rodent feces and I dubbed it rat piss line. The lower part of p3 had some washing-machine-sized stacked blocks. Pulling on them with a hammer I couldn't get them to move but on Day 5 I brought a crow bar and was shocked at how easily these things slid with pressure in the right location. Fortunately, the climb is far enough left there really wasn't much risk to climbers doing the single pitch routes at HD but I put up flagging tape and a sign anyways. Sending these huge blocks down into the gully below HD was pretty awesome but as I rapped down at the end of the day I had a sort-of near miss. I was just about at the bottom of the route and was shouting over to some friends when suddenly the end of the rope was in my hand. The line had been cut a good 25 feet from the end by trundles. If I had been paying less attention I would have fallen into the gulley. Fortunately my feet had just touched bottom and I had been paying attention, but it was certainly sobering. Day 6 was spent bolting and cleaning P1 which I hadn't really figured out yet but finally seemed to come together. Day 7 (the actual "Free Climbing FA"): At this point it was late September. There was a long stretch of rain in the forecast and I convinced Trevor to climb the route with me, while Daniel wanted to jug the lines and shoot footage of us with his early 2000s camcorder. Conditions were overcast and cool as we started out. Myself leading odds and Trevor leading evens. P1 starts out with easy climbing up a corner but gradually gets harder (5.11-) near a roof. I realized I hadn't cleaned this pitch nearly well enough and got pretty flash pumped below the roof but managed to grunt my way out on to the face. P1 continues on the face above with some easier climbing and it was fun but it was like dancing on choss with all the loose stuff around. Trevor followed quickly behind and arrived at the belay looking like he'd been mildly inconvenienced. He charged up p2 (5.10) as I laughed about the fact I'd barely cleaned the pitch. I launched into p3 a bit nervously because I knew it was the crux. I'd removed the death blocks and cleaned the holds just enough for it to be climbable. The bottom climbs fun laybacks in a corner to another shallow roof with some cruxy smearing (5.11-). Above this I arrived at nice ledge where I took my sweatshirt off. From here the rock quality improves but the wall also gets steep. The next 4-5 bolts are the crux of the route (5.11c) and hold some fun pumpy climbing on pinches and positive edges. Staying on brand, I got super pumped and red-lined my way to the slab above. Trev followed with one quick fall then joined Dan and I at the belay. P4 might be the best on the route, Trevor led it, muttering about how it was some "index shit". I think that translates to technical face climbing. After I followed I linked P5 and P6 together. P5 is also fun technical climbing similar to P4 only a bit more short-lived. The fixed lines only went to the top of P5 but we had Daniel tie in on a bite so he could join us at the top. It felt pretty good to finally climb this thing after all the work we'd put in (and just before the rain). Day 8-10: While I had a great time climbing the route, the amount of loose rock and dirt on P1-P3 made it feel unlikely others would want to do as well. So in early 2024 I spent three more days with a wire brush, crow, bar and leaf blower cleaning up the bottom 3 pitches (also nourishing myself in the aura of rat piss line). P3 mostly just needed a leaf-blow, P2 ended up being pretty solid and really just need some light brushing. P1 took up a good chunk of time as there were some stubborn loose blocks, but I got it done. At some point I convinced my buddies Chris and Andrew to climb the route and I went ahead of them, TR soloing on the fixed lines. On this trip I made sure all the anchors had rappel hardware, and I added two stainless steel permas to the crux. We also removed all the fixed lines on the way down. Closing: I'm optimistic with a bit more traffic things will shape up nicely. If Heaven's Gate / Golden Road at Index UTW are in your wheelhouse then this climb is too. Consider checking this thing out for a unique adventure! Gear: At least 12 draws and a handful of runners, full 70m rope Links: - mountainproject: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/125001449/the-stairs-of-cirith-ungol - youtube video we made from Dan's footage:

(6) large (10) medium (2) cliff hanger (4) RURP (3) tomahawk

Hi there! I am looking into the positive impacts that the rock climbing community has on local communities, specifically its impact on local businesses. How likely are you to go out to a local restaurant, brewery, or cafe after climbing? How many people are typically in your party? Is this an important part of the experience for you or something that you would skip without much thought?

(20) carabiners, mixed SMC and REI Cash please. I live in Seattle.

(9) 3" to 3/4", need nylon rigging (11) wired Cash please. I live in Seattle.

These were my 'chocks' of last resort. Only really used once. Cash please. I live in Seattle.

Footwear is the most important of gear, no question. I've taken some time to think about all kinds of different footwear in the Cascades, from trail running to ice climbing and skiing. Here are my thoughts and strategies. I welcome diverse opinions! https://climberkyle.com/2020/09/15/footwear-in-the-cascades/

Hello fellow climbers. I am a beginner/intermediate rock climber living in Tualatin, Oregon hoping to advance my skills with other local climber(s) at the Madrone Wall (Carver, Oregon) on Wednesday/Friday/Saturday afternoons or Sundays. Currently climbing comfortably at about 5.8 level with belaying, and setting gear. I have full set of cams, nuts, new 9.5mm/60m rope and truck for transportation. Looking for partner with similar skill level living nearby wanting to increase skill level and practice a lot together.

This is free. Just come get it in Ballard. It's currently in 3 pieces, the 4x8 piece of 3/4" plywood and the 2 supports. There is a black rubber mat that fits the bottom as well. If you want it, you gotta take all the pieces. I cannot transport it for you. I had built this for pull-ups and to eventually add rock and ice climbing holds etc on it. It's solid enough to be the base of a much higher extension, which was my original plan. It won't fit in my current apt so need to get rid of it.

I am sure many of you have driven down the Columbia River Gorge either on I84 or on HWY 14 and thought about climbing all the cliffs that line the river... I am wondering if anyone has climbed any or if there is info out there for why no one has yet. I know there is some climbing around The Dalles and horsethief butte. But i am talking about all the other cliffs that run from Arlington to Hood River. I imagine that being so close to the highway is a safety concern. Both for falling rocks and driver onlooking. There are plenty of places that are off the highway too though. Is that all that's stopping us? Is it protected land? Owned by who? Outside of just going and seeing who stops me and says whatever does anyone have some beta or input?

Hi everyone, My name is Evan and I am looking for a climbing partner and/or mentor for mountaineering and rock climbing. I have basic glacier travel skills through two guided trips with Kaf Adventures last year. I also have all the basic gear required for a 2-3 day mountaineering trip and gear for sport climbing. I have done the Easton route on Baker last summer and have been training for a Rainer attempt this year. I only recently moved to the Seattle area (Kirkland) and would love to find a partner or two to climb with.

Hey there! I am relatively new to the greater Seattle area. I am always looking for climbing/adventuring partners. Hit me up if you need a partner for a trip or are interested in a regular partner to head up in the mountains with! Regards, Kevin (360) 770-5741

$150.00. 60m Trango dry sheath diamond climbing rope new unopened- still in the bag and original packaging. It's almost $200 on Trango's website.I bought this rope for myself and I turned out not needing it. Since I couldn't return it from the company that I bought it from I'm hoping to sell it on this forum. I live in Portland and willing to ship it, depending on how much it costs... online payments accepted via Paypal or in person cash.Rope specs:Weight: 59.1 (g/m)Fall Rating: 7Impact Force: 7.9 (kN)Elongation: 5.6%Extension: 34%You can read all about the rope on Trango's website. http://www.trango.com/p-270-diamond-94mm.aspx Call/text/email. tgscrowe@gmail.com (207) 664-9206.

Been meaning to write something up on this new route we did last Jan. Finally found the time. Gilkison's Travels

Normandy 5.12 (a/b?) 10-12 quick draws w/Chain Anchor. #1 Camalot optional after 5th or 6th draw Starts off obvious block on left side of the Beach ledge just to the left of Between the Cheeks and Heavens Rear Entry Vehicle. Follow bolts. Steep, bouldery face climbing and two roofs lead to an airy, narrow, stemming finish.

Trip: Harrison Bluffs - FA Wildcat (32m 5.8) and Surprise Fall Date: 6/16/2011 Trip Report: So I haven't really been doing any trips lately, I have an upcoming deadline to graduate and I've been spending the last 4 months working on that. But hell, it's spring, you can't think about school all the time. So I've been going over to Harrison Bluffs for the last month or so and cleaning a new route, a couple hours at a time. Not the hardest or even the best route at Harrison, this rig takes a slabby buttress rising out of the forest. A boulder problem start leads to a curving handcrack to a small ledge and then a featured slab to the top. Nothing too hard, one boulder move and then mostly 5.7 with a three move 5.8 crux on the upper slab. Hopefully a good warmup/moderate route as Harrison has to date been lacking in those (at least ones that stay clean - a couple of easier routes put up in the 90s are fully overgrown). So anyways I got this thing all clean last weekend and did a no-falls burn up it using my Ushba on the fixed line to check out the moves and figure out bolt locations and number. At the time it seemed totally cruisable and I thought about just soloing the FA and placing bolts later but it was the end of a 5 hr scrub session and I was out of water so I just went home instead. Hmm. Went back yesterday and Ushba'd up the fixed rope again placing four bolts and doing the moves one more time. Normally I bolt on rappel and it was interesting to try this bolting-while-pseudo-toproping approach, the drill weighs less than I thought it would but it's still more involved frigging around than it is on rap (mostly with respect to keeping the hot drillbit off the rope and/or the legs after the hole is made). So Shaun showed up and belayed me while I sent the rig, except that things did not go as planned. 25m up the route I stand on a good foot ledge right below the final bolt - a ledge I have stood on with full body weight several times now and which appears to be totally monolithically solid) and am about to clip in when my feet do a Wile Coyote spinning on air dance and I can't hold on and I'm airborne. Suddenly I'm taking a 10m slab fall. WTF? And Shaun mentions he had to dodge a big rock. So when I reclimb the route on the next redpoint (WTF, two redpoint attempts on a 5.8?) it does turn out the big foot ledge below the last bolt is suddenly 50% missing. A brand new scar. Somehow that super solid ledge broke off under full body weight. And this is granite that appeared 100% solid during my last month of scrubbing attempts... The rest of the route goes fine and we climb a couple other routes nearby before the rain starts but, I'm thinking back now, FUCK ME I'm glad I didn't decide to solo that thing last weekend! I'd be in the hospital for sure and possibly even dead. We ended up calling the route Wildcat btw due to a bobcat that was prowling around the base while Shaun was waiting and I was bolting. Gear Notes: 3 or so cams in the hand size range (0.75 to 2 Camalot) and four bolts. Approach Notes: Park by the golf course and walk in on powerline road 5 minutes to the crag trail. This line goes up the slabby right side of he arete forming the right end of the Wayback Layback wall.

For your consideration... Gumbies! On! Crack! http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/la-gota-fria-18p-511b-a0-512d.html