jja
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Posts posted by jja
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I agree, no ebay listings in the yard sale - it's no better than spam. The best part of buying or selling stuff there is the small community of people, mostly local, keeps it honest.
You know the tenth anniversary of spam was a couple of days ago. Let's hope the spammers can't figure out how to make bots that can post to ubb boards and ruin this like they ruined usenet. ughh!!
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not much ice climbing experience - but the finger didn't look too steep... may be wrong though.
you're right, you don't need ice climbing skills to get up this route.
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I listened to Rush the other day. I had to turn it off after a few minutes, I was laughing/screaming so loud...
Gee, that happens to me when I listen to NPR!
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This is the shirt to get, drives the the old time revolutionary libs nuts - can't wait to wear it to a ropeup !!
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forgive me if this is completely obvious, but the west and east ridge routes on forbidden can easily be done car to car.
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you know it sounds crazy, but as I was dodging the prodigious amount of snow and ice raining down these slabs I couldn't help but think what this looked like during that deep freeze we had this winter ... hmm.
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Hey Chuck,
Thanks for posting the pics and tr on your website
Hiked up there on Saturday to learn the approach and find the start of the climb. I wasn't sure I had the correct start, but after checking your site and comparing photos I think I got it. Just got to wait for it to dry out now !!
From your website:
My picture from Saturday:
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So who uses these things rock climbing?
I've got a mess of 'em and bring them ice climbing every time. But not once have I used them for straight up rock climbing. Alpine once or twice but not usually.
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Looking at one of mine now .. a yates regular screamer will extend 10", going from 8" to 18". A yates "zipper" has double the number of folds going from 8" to 28".
Not much I know, but last year I saw someone take a lead fall on icy bc, falling on his first screw as he was trying to place his second, the rope caught him about 6" off the deck (he badly torqued an ankle on the way down).
Likely to happen often? No probably not, but I do think about it. Of course we're not supposed to fall on ice anyway right?
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but that's the only sensible argument against them.
.. maybe not. There's also the consideration of the additioanl legnth of the screamer, which is what - 24" / 36" ? May not seem like much, but I've seen a leader fall on his first screw placement (with a plain qd) and be caught by the rope only a few inches above the deck. If he had a screamer he would've hit the ground for sure.
Since then I usually use a plain old quickdraw on my first screw to prevent the extention, then it's screamears till I run out of em.
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Hi my name's Mike, let me show you my feet.
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So now I'm curious - what's the story?
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Seriously Ray, if this thing has any collector value or even the potential of having collector value DO NOT reconditon it. Refinishing the metal or wood will ruin it's collector value. MattP's right, collector's love the old time petina and distressed wood look.
It's funny as shit watching that antique show on pbs where some rube had a $50k piece of victorian furniture that's now only worth $10k because they stripped the old paint off and stained it
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Want your guide book back before you go?
before the
eats it 
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If that is true then I am thinking of restoring it a little for longer term. What are some good suggestions for the wood and metal? I could green pad some metal with small amounts of wd-40 and shit but am not too savvy about the wood.
Don't do it ray. These guys say so.
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cool
I think chair peak is slowly being pushed aside as cc.com's favorite climb !! We'll have to find a new route that everyone can gang up on next winter.
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I like the sassy yet modest approach the fellow on the left has chosen with the bright red golf shirt just barely peeking out of his grey polypro. Accessorizing with a red bandana and ice axe just emphasizes that this is a man of action AND style.
Wow fern, you could write for J Peterman
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Are you saying the picket is placed vertically? Or horizontally?
In fact Greg_W retrieved it and he was the one that told me it wouldn't have held a thing
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Yes. I did this once, it made me feel better, but it wouldn't have held a thing.
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the sit start involves an m-9ish move that is way heinous. it awaits a send.
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Way to go !!
Was up there saturday and took a look at it, since my partner hadn't done any alpine before we decided against it and did the s.face instead.
Looked like there was a lot of coverage, was that all powder snow, or was any of it neve?
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I'm now going to reveal the fact that I've climbed that thing way too many times ... there are actually two rap anchors for the second rap, one of which is about 15' higher than the other, in low snow conditions the lower one should be exposed - as it gets buried the high one is available. As of three weeks ago the high one is in reach with a good stretch of the arm.
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If you do bring a rope, a single 50 will get you to the second rap anchor in the gully - it's a sling with a rap ring on a monster pin on the left .. it's way obvious.
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Clean Joke
in Spray
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