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jja

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Posts posted by jja

  1. Was planning a 3 day ... oh well, Lillooet will have perfect weather to climb and nobody there

     

    Saturday .. A mix of sun and cloud. Morning fog patches. High minus 3.

    Sunday .. Sunny. Low minus 11. High minus 1.

    Monday .. Sunny. Low minus 8. High minus 3.

     

    we're going to see what everything looks like tomorrow, and maybe go up for sunday, monday.

  2. aaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

     

    does anyone know if there is anything in and worth doing on saturday that is south of the closings? whistler or pemberton on the 99 side, or hope or yale on the 1 side?

     

    I'm assuming that with good weather forecast for saturday, sunday and monday, that the roads ought to open up by saturday afternoon .. sound reasonable?

  3. .. just followed your link, guess bridge river is closed for now. Oh well, we'll be there through monday, so saturday maybe we'll just tool around on the in town stuff or marble.

     

    *******************************************************

    LOCATION: Road 40 - Lillooet to Goldbridge

     

    INCIDENT: High avalanche hazard.

     

    STATUS: Closed

     

    TIME OF CLOSURE: 0558 hrs January 30th, 2004.

     

    TIME OF OPENING: Unknown.

     

    UPDATE TO FOLLOW: Yes.

  4. news in winter ... hmmm.

     

    The standard descent off of news involves three full length raps down a tight slot, then a loose gully, then the free hanging rap off a giant boulder.

     

    Does anyone know if this descent route has been done as a winter ice/mixed climb? It looks like it would be really sweet if it ices up.

  5. It wasn’t easy to finish The Game, though. “Ben couldn’t find anyone to go play belay slave on send day, so after offering all his friends $50—the Cineplex is a two-hour drive from Canmore—and not finding any takers, he recruited a couple guys that are just starting to ice climb,” said Scott Semple. “He gave them a quick tutorial on how to use a GriGri, got pulled off at the lip by the locked-GriGri-and-no-slack symptom, and sent the route on his fifth try of the day.”

     

    thumbs_up.gif

  6. On Saturday we thrashed up Copper Creek looking for Red Wall Wanderer. After 3 hours of grovelling the canyon levelled out and we seemed to be above all the cliffs, so we turned around. Figured we either missed it or it fell down. We did see some discontinuous drips high on cliffs on the south side of the canyon about 1 and a half or 2 hours into the grovel. Maybe that was it (or what was left of it)

     

    3 hours is too far. It's about 1.5 to 2hrs up the canyon .. the trick is that you can't really see it from the low part of the canyon (at least we didn't).

     

    30 - 45 min passed tres burly there is a steep open slope on the left with a big tree about half way up the hill. You have to climb out of the low part of the canyon and up this slope on the left which cuts into the cliff system. Only when you are on the top of this slope will you see the climb on your right.

  7. I had the same problem with my first pair last year, check here

     

    My first pair of gloves fell apart after one weekend, my second pair have 30+ days on them and are doing fine. I did seam seal the crap out of them though.

     

    A few points.

    1.These gloves are the best combo of warmth and dexterity out there.

    2.Yes, they get wet easy, and stay wet a long time. I wear thicker gloves at the belay and put them in my jacket, so at least they're warm and wet for the next lead.

    3.I try not to rap in them.

    4.I think mine will last the rest of this season. (for a total of 2 winters)

     

    Get a new pair paul and seam seal the hell out of them.

  8. We left marble at around 3pm, there had been no accidents that I was aware of. There was a HUGE group of students being led by two guides, they had a about a zillion tr's up, but they were well behaved and were finished by the time we left. Hope everything turned out ok.

     

    By the way icy bc has almost doubled in size since last week. There is enough ice to lead the left side as well as the right, and before too long the chockstone in the middle should be completely covered too. Alas it was the wettest thing out there this weekend.

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