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Here's what I can tell you: I went to the twins sisters (the Cascade ones...) last weekend and ddid a north/ west facing route. Snow conditions were good/ just better than good. The snow pack consisted of consolidated but onlt moderatly cohesive layers toppped by a .5 to 2" layer of frozen water/ rain/ melted snow that was full on icy. Stability wise: seemed ok. Travel wise: excellent. Crampons and no snow shoes. As far as approach: I'd bet it's pretty good. We were (almost) snow free to about .... 4500. I think this would get you and oyu car to the trailhead. These are my experiences on the Twins, but i bet baker is pretty close. Also, the last week has seen some new snow, not much, but this probably would come into play. That's all I know. Well, I also know I'm supposed to be working now, but...

I've seenthe light green guidebook for bc ice...something like "Ice climbs in SW BC". But it seems like in this bb and in the bivuac.com bb there are climbs mentioned not inthe greenish guidebook. Anyone have any comments about this and/or sources of updated info? A new guide?

Hello. Just got back from a pleasant session on Panface. Monday it was pretty full and today, well it was thinnish. Lots of water running behind the ice and many sections had fallen off. The ice that was there was half styrofoam, half junky water ice. Some people led it from the far right half-way up, but there's no way I would have led it. We TR'ed (as usual!) and it was great fun. In my estimation, it won't be there much longer. I haven't looked at the weather report, but if it continues to be like it was today, it will be gone tomorrow. FYI: If you're calling the Mt. Baker ski area weather report or checking their web page, don't put toom uch faith in it. They give a morning weatyher report from 5:30 am. Today it claimed 23 degrees... water was running heavy at 9:00 in the shade. Several times before I've noticed... "optimistic" reports. I can't prove anything (I wasn't there at 5:30...) but I don't bother calling anymore.

I'm selling these items: 1. A Lowe Contour IV internal frame pack. You've seen them everywhere. Pretty basic, holds way more than you'd ever want to carry but still packs down wqell, bomber construction, fat pads on the shoulder and waist straps, top load design (zippers just don't do it for me...) several additional strapping lashes, large top pouch. Cheap and simple. A good first backpack that'll work for backpacking and mountaineering. $90 obo 2. A Lowe Triple Point Ceramic waterproof/breathable jacket. No, it's not goretex, put honestly it's worked pretty well for me. Value. Pit zips, storm flaps on all the zippers, billed hood. Again, pretty simple and durable. I just re-treated it with the DWR stuff from nikwax. I'm 6'2" at 180 and it fits me well (maybe on the small side) Size... Large? $100 obo. Early eighties vintage MSR XGK jet rocket. This mother burns! Works awesome for mountaineering and go-at-it backpacking. Runs fine. In fact, I think this thing boils watter faster than the Dragonfly stove. Just my experience. No major damage, just a few dings. I'll include the fuel bottle and a one year old pump, and even the fuel that's in the bottle if the post office doesn't notice. $25 firm. When I say OBO, I mean it. I've already replaced the pack and jacket (maybe the only good thing about a regular job...) and they're just sitting. Name your price. try me at grouchous_rex@yahoo.com or 360.647.7687

a comment on practicing w/ beacons. We set up a practice session inside a warehouse once. It sucked. We'd start turning into a signal...then be thrown off on a tangent. It took us fifteen mionutes before the hider noticed something was wrong. It turns out the rebar in the concrete was screwing things up. I guess the radio signals were bent or retransmitted in a way that made any sort of directionalization impossible! How frustrating. Maybe you want to keep htis in mind if you set up a pratice session.

does anyone have any advice about the Elfin Hut or Diamond Head Hut? I'd like to go into these for a weekend. What about climbing Garibaldi from... Diamond Head? Is this a reasonable approach? What about winter climbs on Garibaldi?