erik

dfa, autoblock is a prusik or peice of cord which you wrap around the rope below the belay device and attach it to your harness(leg loop). it increases friction on the rope. it is a good thing to practice. if you get hit by ice or rock and get knocked unconsciouses then you wont lose control of your rap and die. you can also use it to stop raps and use both hands to free up stuck ropes or to feed the rope as your rap(as in the case of high winds) only makes sense to me....but then again who am i to help someone else out not making the same mistake twice. hope that helps!!!

iain, like whatever dude. i am fat, so i generate all the speed i need with or without the autoblock. then again you are sar, so you know!!!

juneriver, i dont think illiteracy has ever killed anyone. ignance has!! another thing my parents are very disppointed in their dumb son, all that college and i still can't type. thank gad i am my own supervisor!!! i'll let them know you think so as well! would you be interested in helping my friends and family particpate in an intervention for my in ability and complete refusal to use a spell checker!!! reading you retalitory post only proves all my statements correct. usually works that way. i dont bark at dags that bit harder. woof! take my posts the way you want them. p.s. i am still waiting for some thing dumb and dangerous to occur with myself. 10 years is along time to wait you know!!?? and again please keep the kissing to yourself. i am flatterd in sorts, but disgusted in others. be safe and have fun!

p.p.s you can retain my services for $150 a day. i will trasport myself to crag(i dont know how well you drive!!) i will als o provide meals for an additional $10 per person charge. ciao!

quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: quote:Originally posted by erik: [QBCAN YOU SAY AUTOBLOCK?? I KNOW I CAN! Hmmm... since we hadn't started climbing for the day yet... it would have been a little tricky getting the cord out of the pack.. Next time I'll just make sure to have you around for the fine instruction. Kiss it [/QB] dear ignorant unsafe climber, thanks for letting me know that you are not intrested in making your climbing safe. i realize that you are probably an expert. i shuld keep my mouth shut from here on out(well i actually doubt that). your good buddy, erik p.s. i keep to prussiks girth hitched to the haul loop on my harness. just like i always keep my belay device, locking biner, extra locking biner and nut tool. so i would not have to get into the back of my pack for cord. i als o make a point of always using an autoblock when i rappell. sorry you do not. perfect practice makes perfect. feel free to keep the kissing to yourself. i prefer respectable intelligent beautiful women!

quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by erik: quote:Originally posted by Juneriver: ... Bad day at Vantage. Rapping off of some mesa .... CAN YOU SAY AUTOBLOCK?? I KNOW I CAN! HEY ERIK, YOU CONDESCENDING GOON, CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT I COULD HAVE DONE TO PREVENT MY STUPID MISTAKE? DONT BY FOREGIN!

quote: Originally posted by Juneriver: Hate to admit this stuff... Bad day at Vantage. Rapping off of some mesa or something, I roll off the lip and get my hand flat smashed under the chains. Don't want to call for help but one hand is trapped under said chain and the other is holding the rap device... can't let go. After extricating myself quietly and painfully (yank!!)I'm not paying attention on the rap cause I'm wondering if my hand is broken.... then my shirt gets caught in the ATC. I thought that only happened in the Mounties textbooks. Try getting out of that with one hand! Just felt really stupid that whole day. CAN YOU SAY AUTOBLOCK?? I KNOW I CAN!

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Natural: Drunk gets up from the bar and goes into the mens room. A few minutes later there's a blood-curdling scream from inside. A few minutes later another scream. After the third scream the bartender goes to the door and yells, "Is everything ok in there?". The drunk yells out, "I'm trying to flush but every time I try, something reaches up a squeezes the hell out of my balls!!" The bartender goes in and says, "Ya damned fool, you're sitting on the mop bucket!!!!" the funniest part about that joke, is it is true....why do ya think they call him mr. natural!!!

i will slightly disagree with the ratings comments. first of all the as previously stated, they are subjective. also keep in mind tim, is weak and afraid to step out of the car most of the time. seriously though i have not felt that the .8's and .9's in lworth were any harder then other granite climbing places. ie: yose and index. compared to squamish yes. but in that case we are taking into account the exchange rate. everyone has listed many of the classics in the icicle. enough to keep you busy for a long time. sk for leading you can check out x/y crag and above that j/y crag has a couple cool routes. mr tremendous is cool and so is ski tracks crack and some .9 arete over that way.... erik

pete, don't let anyone know i am responding to your post about crashpads. i could never live down the abuse!! so what i have found in my many attepts to use crashpads is that they are cumbersome to carry, store and trasport. but once there they serve many excellent purposes!!! only 2 drawbacks that i could even think about the hinged as opposed to burrito. 1. is that they might not pack extra as well, since the hinge is more conformed. 2. landing on the hinged part might make the pad fold, resulting in your old bones to take a jarring. metal buckles are obviously better. i say get a fairly thick one, i mean you are going to buy one, might as well buy the big one. more options, you know!! high density foam on top and low density on bottom. i believe cordless is the industry standard, but have noticed quite few new companies are getting into the fray. your fatness, erik p.s. are you still too outta shape to go climbing with me?? i have purposefully stopped all types of healthful living to try and obtain the 'off the couch' status? let me know!

quote: Originally posted by sk: Hmmm, you have a point there. I guess for me the pluses out weigh the minuses. Must keep close comunity of women climbers to fill in when you: a) don't want to climb with a man c) don't want to climb with a man i hear you sk, i love my female climbing partners....prolly some of the best trips i have even taken was with females.... then again there is something about cranking the death dirt with the boys...then again i have female partners that want those leads too!!! cheers to women climbers....

krazy, sounds like you need to increase your partner base... i ask if you are attractive cause if you are that means you get all the ugly pitches....i am ugly so i get to lead all the beautiful ones...you know logic without logic....i think it works....but i dunno really know.....

i'll buy the beer no problemo i dont date climbers either.....they never seem to have their priorites straight and tend to be selfish with their time!!!

jk, i will hook you up with some info, but i gotta finnish some work first.... erik

i think the real issue at hand is, is krazy1 attractive?? is she single?? and does she wanna go climbing??

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: A little girl was playing in the garden when she spotted two spiders mating. “Daddy, what are those two spiders doing?” she asked. “They’re mating,” her father replied. “What do you call the spider on top, Daddy?” she asked. “That’s a daddy longlegs.” her father answered. “So, the other one is a mommy longlegs?” the little girl asked. “No,” her father replied. “Both of them are daddy longlegs.” The little girl thought for a moment, then took her foot and stamped them flat. “Well, we’re not having that sort of sh*t in our garden. u homophobe!

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: YOUR DEITY status. man, why did you just let the cat out of the bag?????? now everyone is going to be bothering me to go climbing with....my deity status ha been in jepardy already, you've probably got me kick out of the club....dang it!

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by chucK: Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it The chimney portion of Damnation doesn't protect well, in my opinion. I like to climb the 5.5 or 5.6 on the other side of Jello Tower and toprope Damnation. A 60 m rope allows the belayer to stand on the ground (as opposed to a top belay), a much better vantage point from which to watch your partner climb. It's a great route! Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind. why would you need to protect easy chimmney?? is not your body on that the belay?? last time i cranked that thing i cliped a fixed pin or two. side note(note: cheast beat) i hung out and drnk with TM Herbert this past weekend, he still cranks like a madman!! and parties hard too!! For those of you outta the loop, he is the fa'ist on damnation crack. also a thing to note TM was much more impressed with Tacoma then he was Seattle.

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: quote:Originally posted by chucK: Try Damnation Crack. You'll love it The chimney portion of Damnation doesn't protect well, in my opinion. I like to climb the 5.5 or 5.6 on the other side of Jello Tower and toprope Damnation. A 60 m rope allows the belayer to stand on the ground (as opposed to a top belay), a much better vantage point from which to watch your partner climb. It's a great route! Beware the start of Canary on Castle Rock. I recall being off the ground quite aways before I could put in my first piece of pro. Poor landing. Just a couple of factors to keep in mind. why would you need to protect easy chimmney?? is not your body on that the belay?? last time i cranked that thing i cliped a fixed pin or two. side note(note: cheast beat) i hung out and drnk with TM Herbert this past weekend, he still cranks like a madman!! and parties hard too!! For those of you outta the loop, he is the fa'ist on damnation crack. also a thing to note TM was much more impressed with Tacoma then he was Seattle.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Just wondering what routes you guys are using these guys on. freeway gunshow

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Or how about if found face down in scree gully, please return to Harborview Medical Center... that is a disgusting statement! i am personally offended by it and think that you should change it. then again i guess when someone spends little time climbing or doinf such activity they would understand little about it or the things that happen whilst doing it. get a clue.

even more so the rei website lists the tiros as a winter/mountainerring.backpakcing tent. http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=9307089&parent_category_rn=4500458

hahahaha i just looked on the rei website and the bibler i-tent is listed as a backpacking/hiking tent. http://www.rei.com/online/store/Search?storeId=8000&seq=61&query=*&cat=4500029 no wonder bone epiced!!!

tom, by pass rei and go to the manufacture. also when you do report rei to the manufacture of their porr service and ill knowledge of the products they are selling. dealer knowledge is extremly important to manufactures. how are they able to sell the 'right' equipment to people is they are unfamiliar with the product. also if you can note the rei employee name and or number for reference. also write a scathing but professional letter to rei home office. being a co-op owned by the people for whom it is setup for you would think that they might repect said owners. but then again when profit margins and not customer service is the goal....the co-op owner/patron should be righted.