David_Parker
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Posts posted by David_Parker
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Any comments on the direct start? Also, Is Urban Bypass sustained 10.b or or just a few moves?
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I did Dreamer in 1986 and thought I'd go back since I thought it was so awesome back then. In the mean time, Safe Sex has been put up so I'm just wondering if anyone has an opinion as to which one they prefer and why. Minor approach beta requested, but not required.
Oh, and where is Pub club this week? I'm gonna be thirsty!
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As I topped out on the Great White Popsicle in LCC Utah last year, I heard a guy talking to his wife on the cell. "Hi honey, it took a little longer than I thought, but we're all safe at the top now so I expect I'll be home in about an hour. I'm really sorry I'm late but don't worry. I'll be home for dinner soon." The guy ends up breaking his leg on the way down! Funny thing was I was just telling my partner I would never make a call like that. I don't tell anyone "I'm safe" or "We're done" until I walk in the door!
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quote:Originally posted by goatboy:I have images of the NE Face of Fury from our climb last week. We climbed from Luna Lake to a camp high on the SE Glacier route in 13 hours camp to camp, through the Fury Icefall and rock bands onto the ice shield, joining the snow arete of the upper N Buttress near the summit ridge.Outstanding route, great snow/ice conditions and a very narrow window of weather in otherwise crappy weather. Encountered whiteout on the glacier the next morning, made for an "interesting " descent.PM me for more info if anyone is interested. I would post images here but don't know how to do so without having a URL for them -- I just have them on my hard drive.Steve
Steve, try Shutterfly.com for posting photos. It's a FREE service and pretty easy. See my post on "GO GET GOODE" for an example.
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Actually, I secretly came to Pub Club in my boat, but it broke down so I stole the truck. Once my boat was fixed, I returned the truck and went home.
![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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I did the Price in early season, May I think. I saw a late fall photo later and barely recognized the place! It is obviously a very active glacier and when shit falls down it, it's pretty big and scary! IMO you shouldn't just plan on coming in and "doing it" regardless of conditions. I think you'll want a cold snap...very possible in October, but not a for sure thing. Don't obsess with just that route if it's not in the right condition. I'm not saying it's not, but you may have to go all the way up there to find out. Nooksack Tower would be a real feather if the glacier is too messed up.
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I have quit using the phrase "on/off belay." It's too confusing in dubious hearing conditions. I now use "secure" when I reach the belay as the leader and then "on belay" to let my partner know it's ok to start climbing. "Belay" is an easy word to understand but the "on" or "off" can be easily lost in the wind.
A good tug system is mandatory for back up. Discuss it with your partner prior to the first pitch as often you find out sooner than later communication is a problem. As a leader, when I arrive at a belay, I tie myself in and leave all slack below until after I have set up the anchor. Only when all is ready to belay do I pull up the slack. When my partner knows and understands this, he knows that when the slack comes up, he can climb immediately after. Of course this can become confuing when you stretch the rope to reach the belay. Then the tug system works.
I have the radios but have not tried them yet. Sounds like it's time!
[ 09-09-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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I'd say the (one) move is about 5.6. The rest is easy. You can do it in mountain boots as all the moves are edges or friction; no feet jambing. It's a complete joke to bring rock shoes on Challenger! You should bring about 4-6 pieces in the 1-3 inch range. If you need a 3 point anchor for alpine climbing, bring more.
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I like my megamid. I have long strings on the tent stake straps and can pitch it really high if I want. I bring the floor if weather looks really bad or extended trips. I can also pitch it really low when I'm high!
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I took a friend to a sail rigging shop in Ballard once. I had to convince them that the swage didn't have anything to do with the holding power of the unit in a fall. They swaged it for a buck I think. Might have a problem finding one of those type shops in Wenatchee though!
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quote:How waterproof have you found these boots to be? Worthy of multi-day trips filled with stream-crossings & rainy bushwacking???
Try Extra-Toughs sold at Fisheries supply in Ballard.
Mine are pretty new and my feet get wet because I think they sweat a lot (doesn't seem to matter what I wear). I have not really put them to the test you describe. PM Wayne and ask him, but he stayed relatively dry on Goode and we had plenty of wet snow for the descent and he was dry for the most part. Personally, the "wet" part is not a concern as much as what the boot does technically. In this case, I'm looking for the best all-round boot for the North Cascades. I'll give it high marks for that.
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Leon Lloyd Bean once said, "treat your employees like they were your best customer." Makes me wonder how management treats the employees at FF. If they are not happy, it will reflect in their customer service. Retail sales is not very forgiving and neither is the American public. While we may blast REI for not having technical savy employees, at least they try to give you service with a smile. Regardless, it's no wonder I'm the LL Bean walking poster child. They define good customer service!
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We used left gully which is a narrow dried up streambed for part of the way. Very small patch of snow at top, no worries. I thought it was pretty technical coming back down though. This was August 18-22, '02.
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I would second Matt's suggestion with more specific beta. GO TO SECOND BEACH!!!! It's an easy hike from the trailhead and once on the beach, persevere to the south around the corner and you should find relative solitude amongst the driftwood. Second beach is way better than 3rd beach and 1st beach. I have found often on the coast the weather is fine when just slightly inland the weather is grey with clouds backed up against the mountains. However, I have also experienced coastal fog while it was bluebird just a 1/2 mile inland.....so just go and deal. Any favorable forecast and all should be good. Second Beach is my most favorite campsite in Washington and even Art Wolfe has many awesome photos in his coffee table books from there. If it's not raining, you'll have a very memorable experience there. Driftwood fires are OK too, but try to make indian fire, not whiteman fire and save some for others! Gorgeous sunsets, nice walks, much exploring. I was there 3 weekends ago with my son. We paddled in my double kayak from La Push. Much easier to carry all the essentials for 2 people that way! You'll need to bring water. Try cicumnavigating the huge rock tower at low tide. It's sort of like climbing. My son and I made it around the outer one even...pretty technical at times. ENJOY!!!!
[ 09-03-2002, 03:22 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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quote:Originally posted by Off White:Of course, this morning he headed back off to Maine for college so I'm feeling sad and mopey.
![[Frown]](images/icons/frown.gif)
Still, its turning fall and I do love that, ...Hey, Maine is an awesome place to be in Fall! Make sure he heads over to N. Conway for some prime granite. Mt. Washington or any other "presidential" mountains are best in the fall, especially when it snows high above timberline and the leaves are peaking!
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I've been "rained out" of the Cascades more than the Olympics. But now I try to wait for weather windows when planning trips. All mountains have their personal weather systems though.....
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I climbed this:
with these!
Colin did same route with the Ferratas. Basically same boot, but in leather.
These are AWESOME all-round Alpine climbing boots for the Cascades. Lightweight, enuff flex for long hikes, stiff enuff for edging and crampons, great rubber for smearing. Best "do-it-all" boot I have found. THANK YOU GARMONT!
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old gaitors work well too! I often use a "gaitor" bag when travelling since all my thermarests have holes in them!
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quote:Originally posted by mattp:[QB]having the shaft point upward, I HAVE seen the spike poke people. [QB]
Matt, glad to see you're politically correct. It would be SEXIST to think girls are the only ones who get poked! Now, where did you say you saw this?????
[ 08-27-2002, 04:14 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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But knowledge there is cold beer in your car will propell you like the wind! It's not that bad!! I was assuming he'd catch the boat at Big Beaver and not hike the seven miles.
[ 08-27-2002, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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I just did 11 miles on Big Beaver last week from Ross Lake to past Luna Camp. The bugs are not bad until you stop....then they find you. Deet and a tent will be necessary. The trail is mellow and you'll see some REALLY BIG TREES!
Big Beaver is closed to camping right now due to bears. You can still get picked up/dropped off though. The last boat ride is 6:00 pm. Advanced reservations mandetory.
If I may be so BOLD...I highly suggest you reverse direction! Go from Hannegan to Ross Lake. You'll be much happier taking a nice swim and hanging out in the sun when you get done vs arriving in a dusty parking lot. Also, If there is marginal weather, it will only improve heading east. Take a quick spin up Whatcom Peak on the way. You'll have an AMAZING view from up there!
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quote:Originally posted by mattp:A special place to put crampons on a pack is probably the least important feature that one could look for in a pack. .
I like to roll my crampons up in my Thermarest. It helps protect the points from getting dull when you throw the pack down on rocks.
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I was in northern pickets Aug.18 to 22. It did not drop below freezing at night at Luna Col (elev. 7100). We encountered no real "ice" on N.rib of Fury, nor did the NE Face appear to have any real ice. If that wasn't ice, I'm not sure where it will be. BTW, I define ice as the substance that will actually take an ice screw!
N.Face couloir of Buckner way have a couple moves of ice; N. Face proper probably none. I don't know why people do the N. Face of Buckner when the couloir is so much more "alpine" and only 10 minutes more to get to. It was a big snow year and I don't think the alpine ice is going to appear until well into Sept. Good luck and let us know if you find some!
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Why don't they figure out a way to let you know how much fuel has been consumed/left. Even if you had to buy a little gauge to test at home before you leave. I'm sure there are trips where 1/2 cannister is plenty, but you don't dare because is a half, 1/3 or 1/4 left????
rainier fatality
in Climber's Board
Posted
RE: Russian avalanche. 113 missing... That's a lot of climbers on one rope. Did the mountaineers start up a Russian branch?![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)