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David_Parker

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Posts posted by David_Parker

    Eldorado NW couloir conditions??

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by kevin:

    Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"?

    I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta?

    thanks

    I am quickly learning that "in" is a very subjective term. Wayne and I went to do this route yesterday (10/13/02). We approached on Sunday and met two parties coming down who both said they looked at it and reported it was "definitely not in." We ended up going over to the N. Ridge and had an excellent view into the upper section. Needless to say we were kicking ourselves for listening to our fellow climbers than our own judgement. In our opinions this climb is definitely "in". Thin, but in.

     

    The conditions of the route matched exactly our EXPECTATIONS of what would be there and therefore our assessment of "in". Unfortunately we were swayed by repots of "not much ice and lots of powdery snow." True there is snow, but it is quite consolidated on the northern aspects as evidenced by the quite solid upper snow/ice face immediately above the termination of the couloir. There was ice, not thick, but it seemed there would be occaisional screw placements as well as rock pro. This is a mixed climb. I don't relly know who we talked to; perhaps they expected a blue streak as often seen in the Canadian Rockies. But I think they will wait a long time before that happens. In fact I think right now there is NOT too much snow and when the next big dump comes, then the route will be "out" for the rest of the season. So if you are realistic about what to expect and are comfortable on a thin (but in) alpine ice climb, I hope someone ticks it soon. You can pm me for further approach beta. At least we have that down for next time! [Wink]

    Climbing Magazine threatened me!!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Jens:

    Another magazine gripe of mine:

     

    The magazines and the whole industry have a huge love of climbers from Colorado or Utah.

    If you aren't from those places you ain't dirt.

     

    Don't believe me? if you are bored at work, whip out any issue and count pictures and articles affiliated with those climbers.

     

    Sure the pure waterfall ice and pure sport rock abilities of the avg climber from UT or Co is a bit higher but all and all we WA, OR, and British Columbia climbers are not quite cool enough or "hard" enough for them when in fact we climb much more like our European Uber-brethren than those UT or Co people.

    [big Drink][big Drink]

    I like to watch the Colorado and Utah climbers navigate slide alder, devil's club, gnarly stream crossings and all the other neat stuff that is special to us Cascade Climbers. Maybe that's what keeps them in Colorado and Utah!

    Red Rocks Beta

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I did the "one day to climb" thing last fall. Dark Shadows (5.7) was killer. Route is straight up, second pitch fairly sustained but all there, and you can easily rap the route. We were told to expect crowds and we had it all to ourselves! Nice hike in/out too!

    A route that doesn't go in a day?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    There's a BIG difference between covering miles and vertical feet. While climbing the nose in 2:48 is mind boggling, it's still 3,000 feet up without much approach and straight forward descent. Approaching 15 miles, climbing 5,000+, descending/hiking out same is big enough.(Mt. Goode.) Moving over extremely rugged terrain, bush wacking, and covering MANY miles means you just won't do it in a day. Thus my premise there are LOTS of routes not doable in a day. Why bother listing them all. Those of us who have been there know getting it done in 24 hours or even 48 is NOT what it's all about.

     

    [ 10-12-2002, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    North East

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Mike McNeill:

    Paco,

     

    I've never been to Holderness School Corner. Where about is it?

    I had to stand in the corner once at Holderness. I went to school there and wasn't always behaving.

     

    It's funny, because I found THIS web site back in 2000 while looking for an ice climbing partner for North Conway in December. I was cruising the internet for climbers back east. Ironically, I DID hook up with a guy from Boston who frequented this site. We climbed all the good stuff in two days at Frankenstein cliffs.

     

    I also hooked up with Al Hospers from New Hampshire while in Canada. He runs the "White Mountain Report". You can get his weekly email newsletter at:

     

    http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_subscribe.html

     

    If you email Al, you will find a veritable gold mine of where to climb and find a bunch of partners.

     

    Being from Maine, I can't wait to visit my parents again. I always try to find time to get over to the White Mountains. Oh, and I still have a date with Tuckerman's on my Tele Skis someday!

     

    And for any west coast climbers who think that Mt. Washington is just a bump on the map, think again. I'd be willing to bet it's killed more climbers than Mt. Rainier. What a great time of year to be in New Hampshire or the Gunks!

     

    Mike, send me an email and I'll give you the name of the guy from Boston I climbed with. You guys are about the same age.

     

    [ 10-12-2002, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Pub club 10/8

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by mattp:

    Actually, pubclub has been alive and well. We're just sick of people who don't show up and why the hell did you put the boat away?
    [Wink]
    See you at the rope up.

    I guess I just jumped to conclusions based on the fact the pub club threads get off track quickly and it's been hard to decipher if it's really going on and where. Ditto rope up. I usually can't wait until 4:00 on Tuesday to finally get the final decision. At least this week it is decided quickly. Actually, my boat sits on a trailer and is ready to go anytime. Just not the best boating weather and it would be dark for any boatrides. Not really worth the effort of launching, hauling out, etc. Next summer! Now Seton lake for ice climbing is another story!! [big Grin]

     

    [ 10-08-2002, 12:17 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Pub club 10/8

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I put my boat away so it doesn't matter! Can't go this week anyway. I do plan at being at the rope fest if it's still on. Interest in pub-club and the Rope fest seems low these days. Maybe we're just sick of each other!

    A route that doesn't go in a day?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

    Yeah dude the Russian Route on Inspiration
    [Embarrassed]
    or Bonanza in a day.

     

    Fury in a day would be fun to hear about too.
    [laf]

    I'll buy all the beer you and your partner can drink in 24 hours if you do N. Buttress of Fury car to car in 24 hours. After that you can star in the next superman movie!

     

    BTW, there are MANY routes you can't do in a day. That's just one!

     

    Overall, this is a stupid topic and I should probably be ashamed I even responded. [big Grin]

     

    [ 10-07-2002, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Death at the Coulee

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    First my condolences to all. This defines tragedy. I went out and bought Goran's book on Monday immediately upon hearing of the accident. Near the begining he mentions how it is truly a tragedy when people die needlessly in the mountains. A tad ironic here.

     

    I missed all of yesterdays' posts so I have just read them all through for the first time. This is a scary accident in that it seems Goran didn't do anything wrong really and certainly not anything many of us wouldn't have done ourselves. The theory on mixing cams and nuts captured my attention. I have always prefered nuts over cams, mostly because I started climbing before cams were readily available. A few partners have questioned my use of nuts over a "quick" cam placement, but I just tell them I like them better. Now obviously if this is mostly a parallel crack then maybe "all" cams were necessary. More conjecture...

     

    What no one has mentioned that I ask....is this a classic case where maybe using two double ropes would have made a difference? Not something you usually think you need on a straight up sport climb, but hey, maybe this proves it is worthy of more consideration. If double ropes had been clipped alternately in the sequence of applied gear by Goran, maybe that biner wouldn't have broken. I'm an advocate of learning from accidents thus the only reason I bring this up; I'm definitely not criticising Goran's approach to gear on the climb.

     

    [ 10-05-2002, 06:21 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    What You Know Now

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by JayB:

    Howdy:

     

    Ice.

    1. Always place a good screw before you top out. It's tempting to get off of the scary stuff as quickly as possible andhead for the big tree with the slings or some other oasis of security that beckons beyond the easy ground atop an ice route. However, lots of times the ice just beyond the apex of an ice climb is horrible, unprotectable slushy crap. Take advantage of the last good ice that you can find and crank in a screw before you commit to clearing the bulge and/or the easy but unprotectable ground above it.

     

    2. Never use your knees to clear a bulge. When you top out on an ice climb it's tempting to lurch over the edge and swing your tools as far onto the ledge as you can. Avoid this temptation as it will more or less force you to clamber over the top with your knees or shins in contact with the ice instead of your front points. Find good ice near or over the top of the climb to sink your tool into, work your front points up from below, then incrementally advance your tools away from the edge until you can step over the top and stink your crampon points onto the top of the ice instead of your slippery, goretex-clad knees.

     

    This is good stuff and where I think many mistakes are made. This is also why I won't use any leash system that prevents me from grabbing the head of the tool. Too many ice climbers think you always have to hold the tool at the bottom of the shaft only. A couple solid tool placements on top of the bulge can get you a long way and help you manage your feet properly. As I move up, I slide my hands up and "mantle" off the tool heads. Sometimes my feet will be right there next to my tools when I finish. Often you can then just stand up and walk. You don't have to worry about making tool placements in the slushy/snowy stuff with insecure placements.

    Racking up

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by dbconlin:

    I agree that you should definitly learn the art of chockcraft before getting too many cams. When I first started leading trad, I had a set of BD nuts and a set of hexes. That's it. I climbed up to 5.8 with that before I ever bought a cam. Also, a really good way to learn about placing nuts is to lead an easy aid pitch--you will really learn to trust a solid placement with one of those little suckers, a great psychological boost.

     

    Aid climbing is a great way to learn chockcraft and understanding "good" placements. Go do City Park at Index although you'll need to borrow a bunch of smaller stuff if your partner doesn't have enough to supplement. Check the Yard sale, I'll bet there are some folks that will sell some "spare" chocks. I like the Wild Country Rocks. Also, WC tech friends are still good (and lighter than BD) in the mid to big range. I like TCU's or Aliens in the smaller range.

     

    I started with chocks/hexes only before I bought cams. Looking back I'm glad I did because I still use them alot, mostly because I know how to place them and trust them!

    Dreamer-Green Giant Buttress

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    DaveW, I was only implying changing the massive amounts of webbing to chains, using the existing bolts and hangers. The best example is the belay at the top of the 10.b of Urban Bypass. While at times I like the high visibility of the colorful webbings so I can see where I'm trying to get to, I'd still prefer the chains and bolts for overall disguise,safety and piece-of-mind.

     

    Russ, in '86 I remember an old logging road with thousands of new alders that you could barely fit between. These have obviously grown significantly and have appear to have been thinned out by man. Way easier now. The trail through the forest is obvious the whole way now. The section after the woods is also much easier to follow. Before it was mostly bushwacking and I remember not being able to see the ground and tripping over the boulders. Of course, I was on drugs in the 80's a lot more too!

    Dreamer-Green Giant Buttress

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    A direct and seperate rap route makes total sense. Although we had the whole wall to ourselves, I'd imagine it would be a cluster fuck rapping down onto others still going up and trying to share the anchors. Not to mention creating a route off the "up" line makes it safer and could avoid rope eating flakes.

     

    Also, Tom's pitch numbers above do not co-incide with Matt P's topo after pitch #1. Belay for pitch "2" is same for regular and direct on Matts topo. The blue crack pitch is only pitch #6 on the Matt P. topo. FYI

     

    [ 09-26-2002, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Dreamer-Green Giant Buttress

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I was also just on dreamer this week, but being we didn't get to the base and start roped climbing until noon, only made it to the top of the Blue Crack pitch via Urban Bypass. We also started too far left of direct start, but found our way with natural pro to the belay behind the bush which I think is pitch #1 belay for "direct" dreamer. The last time I was on this climb was 1986 and I distinctly remember the last 2-3 pitches as extremely runout with no bolts and I also girth-hitched chicken heads when possible. The beauty of the "character" of the climb back then was that by the time you get to those final pitches, you are pretty used to the slab-friction climbing on smaller stuff, so the bigger knobs higher up inspire confidence to see you through the long runouts. This to me was what made these pitches some of the funnest also. I remember feeling totally stoked that I had lead these major run-out pitches. So I think if there are a bunch of bolts up there, in a way it's too bad because the character IS different. Not that I wouldn't clip them, but I'm a weenie anyway.

     

    Tom, maybe we should post fresh rap beta too...I think many "up" pitches can be combined on the way down and there sure is a sea of anchors hap hazard all over the place to be used, due to all the different routes.

     

    Also, I was thinking all the belay stations on Dreamer (and Safe Sex) should be changed to chains. Since I didn't finish it 2 days ago, I'd go back with chain and links. I hate that rat nest shit of webbing!

     

    Also, the approach is a total piece of cake compared to 1986! No trail whatsoever back then!

     

    [ 09-26-2002, 05:21 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Exfoliation Dome-Blueberry Hill W.Ridge TR

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Yeh, it looked really cool from Green Giant Butress yesterday. This is the best time of year to visit Darrington! It was absolutely gorgeous with the leaves just starting to turn and beautiful sunshine. We were the only ones up there and it's a great way to get into a pretty remote area for a day. Get an early start and make your turn around time at 4:00 lest you be walking out in the dark!

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