David_Parker
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Posts posted by David_Parker
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hope that didn't prevent you from completing the climb. How was it?
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It's just amazing how much more snow is in the Cascades this year as compared to 2001! When I did this last year at about same time, it was all boulders/scree crossing horseshoe basin and exposed wet slabs to get back up to Sahale Arm! You guys had it easy!!
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You guys assume I know where the place is! I'll just drive up and down the beach looking for drunk climbers. They're easy to tell apart from the vollyball players cause they don't have tans! Someone call me on my cell and give me slightly more specific directions....by water. 714-4300
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I'm busy putting out fires right now, but hey, my cell phone works! So I'm trying my best to make it via boat (for kicks) Can't pick up anyone beyond the locks as I'm coming from B.I. Anyone have beta on arriving at the Alki by water. It's the place with all the motorcycles right! Is'nt there a warf nearby. If not, I can anchor up.
PS> you can't get in my boat without beer!
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quote:Originally posted by mattp:How 'bout we all pile into David Parker's speedboat and head out for a cruise?
I only have room for 5. Girls have priority!! I'll vote for the Alki though, or any other bar walking distance from the waterfront in downtown. Do any bars in the market/post alley/alaska way vicinity have outside decks that face west?
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If you bivy at the B-S col, it will be a big day to get back because it will end with you climbing up out of Horseshoe basin then up over Sahale to get back to camp. Maybe you can somehow descend the north face again, but not many people do it...although I suppose if the snow got soft enough but not dangerous it would be ok. That would make life a whole lot easier for return to a base on B-S col. If you did the Forbidden climb first, then did a carry over when you do Buckner, that might work too. Hope you have 4-5 days!
Just out of curiosity, who's your guide?
[ 07-15-2002, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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BELL-M, I know the best deals on brand new fiberglass touring sea-kayaks. They are from Port Townsend $1,600 cash (no tax) I'll send email w/photo. Anyone looking to get a sea kayak, call me first. 206-842-5626 X 14
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how old/much used t-2's. I float between 9 and 9.5 so not sure if they'd fit. Mildly interested...boots only!
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Other than Barrabes and Sierra Trading Post, what web sites have good deals on gear?
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This one was in bad, taste but still made me chuckle...right after the space shuttle blew up:
Dead Teachers in Space
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As a former New Englander for 22 years (Maine) I say just move here....or at least come out and sample our goods. I'll be in North Conway next week!
![[big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
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Don't ask me why mine is in here twice. Tim, go ahead and remove if you want. As my previous post says, I posted what I emailed Fred in case anyone wants to add a comment, but Fred did get it via email.
Also, here's another funny one....Fred's only an "on belay" member...not yet qualified to be a rope lead!
[ 07-11-2002, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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Thanks Nelly, I concur getting out of the riparian zone has significant benefits. Sounds "reasonable"...we'll see. A lot of trees can fall down in 5 years! Anyone else?
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Any one done this fairly recently? I figure this is the best way to Luna Col. Local beta appreciated! (I have Beckey and Nelson guide info already and read some stuff here on cc.)
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[ 07-11-2002, 02:23 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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(bla-bla) = eliminate verbage
[bla-bla] = add this verbage
From page 316 (second edition)
(SOUTHEAST RIDGE DESCENT)
[sOUTHWEST COULOIR DESCENT]
When arriving at the second notch from the summit {Black Tooth Notch}, one can rappel into the SW Couloir; this is the shortest descent. From the summit: Descend 2 long pitches obliquely towards the upper NE Buttress, passing the first sharp ridge notch {class 3-4}. After a continuing down-climb traverse, look for the obvious dirt ledge (leading) [at the same elevation] as the Black Tooth Notch. (Make a short descending traverse on a grassy ledge, then climb 8 ft steeply to the ledge) [Traverse rock ledges 100 ft and step around a corner to reach the notch.] Descend a loose gully-ramp on the W. side for about 100 ft. Look for rappel slings, [also visible from Summit] around a large block, then rappel (40) [140] ft. to reach the SW couloir. [Parties with single rope will find a sloping ledge with another block/slings at 70 feet, {but not visible from above} to reach the couloir in 2 rappels.] When descending the lower part of the couloir, beware of slabby dropoff near its base; bear left and circuit this by an easy ledge beneath white crags.
The part about "grassy" ledge and "climb 8 feet" confused us more than helped us. I figured the "40 ft rap" was a typo and meant "140"; a somewhat critical adjustment!
I have no comment on your approach across river and up cliff bands since we went a completely different way. You may comment it is possible on the far right of first cliff band as well.
Cheers Fred, your work to put out these books is truly as huge and inspiring as the Cascades themselves!
[ 07-11-2002, 02:25 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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Hey, where's the trip report???? Freemont was not convenient for arriving by speed boat so I didn't make it. Next week how about downtown or Alki!
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Fred, I have notes on corrections for descent off Goode using SW Couloir. I'll send them asap. I'm at work, notes at home. I'll post here too for others to add/correct. Nelson/Potterfield suggest using Bedayn Couloir, but from what I have read here, most have not been happy with that choice. Wayne and I chose SW Couloir and had no problems.
Approach beta might need adjustment as well. Sounds like some folks got "hosed" recently, but this may have been more to their lack of adjustment for lots of snow and raging waterfalls over first cliff bands. Check out: GO GET GOODE in this same forum.
[ 07-10-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
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Where's the ballroom. Is it walking distance from Bell street marina?
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Garmont Boots "will take you further than you think." Wayne wore the Tower GTX's on Goode which he swore by. 15 mile approach and he really like the rubber for the climb. I believe I heard him say "the best boots I ever worn!" I actually wore Garmont Passos on the same climb. Now that is PROOF they will take you further than you think! I used Trango aluminum crampons on the glacier. Comparing the 2 boots, I think I was more comfortable on the hike, we were equal on the climb, and Wayne had the advantage on the hard snow. I have now ordered the Towers to be my boot of choice for the Cascades and Olympics! 2 weeks ago they were on sale at Feathered Friends. Limited supply and will not be reordered.
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I have mixed emotions on this issue. While climbing in the Dolomites a few years ago, I asked myself why I spent so much $$ to go to Europe to climb when I have such an awesome backyard to climb in. But it's the whole cultural experience that makes Europe different from the US. What I really liked was that there were small villages everywhere that seemed to be surviving. Compare these to towns like Marblemount, Darrington, Winthrop, Leavenworth. Many of the Euro towns do rely on tourism, but believe me if the majority of their citizens drove to the bigger town/City down the valley to shop at COSTCO for essentials such as food and clothing, the town would die. Mom and Pop stores rely on locals to shop AND buy. There is an inherent loyalty to spend your money with the people you live with. It's a lcalized economy that is quite fragile.
On the other hand climbing gear is very specialized and not really essential in the same way food and clothing is. So price is much more of a factor. The advantage Europe has is that it is much more densely populated and distribution of gear, for the most part, is not as difficult as the wide open US. Cost margins are not the same. Still, I agree that the mark up of gear in the US is proportionately higher and the profits are too. But we as a society expect a more luxurios lifestyle and seem overly consumption minded so higher profits support our lifestyle. I'm not saying Europeans aren't capitalists, but I think they have a better understanding of the balance of economy and have been much better at doing just that for hundreds of years longer. Why the US can't look at the things that work in Europe and LEARN from it baffles me. Their experience and mistakes are evident and we still continue to ignore it!
I shop online and am always looking for a deal for climbing equipment. I try not to be in a hurry and wait for sales and deals. I rarely pay full retail for anything. We here on CC are probably mostly like this, but we don't represent the general public. Why do you think companies like the North Face and REI cater to the general public with so much of their product. Because there isn't much profit in climbing gear to begin with. We shouldn't complain about their prices, but they shouldn't be pissed about losing business to online .coms. It's a double edged sword.
If Black Diamond can distribute product to Europe for less than the US, then there is someting WAY wrong with that. Europe can survive without BD no problem. BD needs to look at the big picture. They make excellent equipment for the most part and should be able to beat the Euro manufactures in price. I wonder how much of their ego gets in the way. Anytime a product is shipped to Europe and then shipped back to a US purchaser, well I think the writing is on the wall. They are charging too much in the US to the distributors of the equipment. So it's not the Mom and Pop store that's screwing us, it's the manufacturer's greed. Too bad for the Mom and Pop, their the ones really getting screwed. So I do like to support them, but just as we all seem to vote, our own pocket books have a limit and we can only go so far on principle.
I have always maintained there is no such thing as "economics." There are too many social isssues to render it a rediculous science.
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I've found my ropes have actually become stronger when stored in heated spaces above 85*. I'm heavier now and they still hold when I fall!
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I should add there was a LOT of snow which I'm sure made all this VERY different, especially on the upper slabs, from when most people visit Goode. The Beckey approach map may be fine when the waterfalls slow way down, but they were raging when we were there! We were further up from the suggested crossing because that's where the snow bridge was. Crossing N. Fork Bridge creek any sooner was not an option.
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quote:Originally posted by klenke:Some information about Mt. Goode NE Buttress climb.Lake Chelan boat Lady of the Lake parking: $24 at Field's Point for four days ($30 per week). Gadzooks!Boat fare: $25 round tripShuttle bus costs: $24 round trip ($6 per zone one way x 2 zones x 2 directions).Take lots of cash. Plus, take extra for beer money in Stehekin.Due to boat arrival time in Stehekin and shuttle bus shedule, it is unlikely you will start the hike up Bridge creek earlier than 3:30PM. This may preclude getting all the way up to standard bivy below Goode Glacier.
Thanks for confirming Wayne's and my decision to hike in from Hwy 20! Saves mucho time and $$$! I'll gladly walk an extra 5 miles (10 rt) through pristine wilderness, see nobody, and save $$$ on a 3 day trip.
Topo Maps from DeLorme
in Climber's Board
Posted
So I was at DeLome headquarters in Maine (the company that makes the Gazateer) and they have this program that custom makes topo maps anywhere in the US. So I put the guy to the test and had him zero in on Access Creek off the Big Beaver trail and basically all of Luna Creek Cirque. I was so impressed with the detail I bought the program for $100.00. I have not tried it out yet, but it appears you can view and print maps in 3-D! Anyway, just curious if anyone else has experience on this program. Delorme touts it as the most comprehensive data available!