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David_Parker

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    rain

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by wayne1112:

    I too will choose to take a moment and wallow in this pit of rain induced mud. In my case it was snow, and It felt like winter on the Ptarmigan. Thank God for Leavenworth though

    And thank god for the Methow Valley! [big Grin]

    Go Get Goode!

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    After crossing the massive snow bridge we headed obliquely right to the far right edge of the first cliff band where a violent stream comes down. Walked up slabs and then up snow again right up to the base of the waterfall and then a short section of 4th class on the left got us up to the next section. Meandered up low angle slabs a brief bit, through slide alder and onto snow which we followed up to a second tier of cliff bands which we bypassed on the left by following the snow through the last of the trees. Unable to find flat ground, we excavated a tree well for tent sight. We came down the same way because we wanted to go a way we knew. This proved a bit confusing because you have to pick the absolute correct two streams to descend between or you get trapped between the wrong two above cliffs. The last section of forth class we rapped off slings around a stubby tree. I added one of those screw shut chain links (small) and a teal supertape.

     

    That sucks you didn't figure it out. Thats a long way to go! I have repeatedly found my instincts are much different than Beckey guidebook.

     

    BTW: You may want to add this to your green book for the descent using SW Couloir. The first part fromn the summit is correct describing "descend obliquley right two long pitches towards the NE Ridge route. (Basically reverse last two pitches.) This puts you even with the Black notch which is easy to get to. It says something about climbing "8 feet" but doesn't say up or down, but it doesn't matter anyway because it's basically a 4th class traverse. Once at the notch I say: "descend about 100 feet of 4th class to an obvious boulder with slings.(You can actually see it from the summit) Rap (angling left as you face the rock) towards the SW couloir about 70 feet landing on a sloping ledge with another rap station of slings around a suspect boulder, not visible from above. Rap again about 70 feet to gain the couloir." It's not 40 feet like Beckey says!

     

    [ 07-08-2002, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    hikin' shoes?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Try THESE! WARNING: These boots will take you further than you think! I used these on my Mt. Goode trip THE WHOLE WAY! You can even put crampons on them if need be.

     

    http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=61040&str%5Fbase%5Fno=60407%2C60514%2C60519%2C60548%2C60620%2C60622%2C60723%2C60750%2C60780%2C60874%2C60934%2C60955%2C60964%2 C61006%2C61023%2C61039%2C61040%2C61101%2C61102%2C61112%2C&header%5Ftitle=Footwear%2DHiking+Boots+and+Shoes&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E347&size1=&siz e2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=0&cont=1&intPgNo=1&special%5Ftype=&mscssid=6PPE8FFU47QN9PN74FUL4V0AFPUQ90M6

    Booker Mountain?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Photo #62 is NOT of Booker. Photos 54 thru 63 form a complete panoramic. I have now stiched them together as a complete moving pano if anyone's interested in seeing it. I can only email it directly though.

     

    index.cfm?fuseaction=pgview.content&id=3

     

    [ 06-27-2002, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Booker Mountain?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Took this shot of N. Face of Booker from the top of Goode last weekend. Can't tell how vertical it is but 3,000 might be be about right if you land in the basin.

    47b2d804b3127cce9edcd7c742460000000410

     

    Pretty remote location and fairly chossy from what I could tell. The Mt. next over is back side of Buckner. Forbidden is dark triangle on far right in the distance. Your approach is either over Cascade Pass and climb south side or up Park Creek basin from Stehekin and find route up east ridge or something. I've only looked at it from Buckner and Goode, but never been on it.

     

    [ 06-27-2002, 02:12 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Go Get Goode!

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Day 1: We went in from just below Rainy pass. Be warned that is a solar parking lot! 10 miles down bridge creek, 5 miles up N. Fork Bridge creek. We bivied above initial cliff bands on the snow in a tree well. Day 2: climbed and returned via Storm King col back to camp. Moved camp down to Grizzly Creek camp. Day 3: Hiked out. If you want to see all the photos, go to:

     

    http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b301e9a7c4d5

     

    It was an awesome adventure and one of the best climbs I've ever done!

    Nude Ascents

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    DO NOT SKI NUDE! I was at Tuckerman Ravine in the late 70's and saw 2 dudes try to ski the headwall nude. One fell and did the big slide for life on steep corn snow. He was a bloody mess and had to be evacuated. Stupid!

    Accident on Mt. Rainier

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    For those who commented on my post: Ok, maybe this guy from Pennsyvania was not a yahoo and yes I agree even experienced climbers can take a rock to the head as well. So my post was not timely in context. But I will still maintain the Liberty Ridge has been the scene of many accidents and I will attribute many of them to the fact that inexperienced climbers are getting over their head on this route. In a way, maybe it's good that Rainier has been in the public eye with some deaths and accidents. Maybe some of these climbers will re-assess their abilities before tackling such a serious route on a serious mountain. I'm willing to bet the accident rate doubled on Liberty Ridge after the publication of "50 Classic Climbs"!

     

    Also, my post did not attempt to say I was more "qualified" than the kid from Pennsyvania. But now that you mention it, I probably am. Maybe that guy makes climbing trips to Washington every year but maybe this was his first time on Rainier. I moved to Washington (from Maine/Utah) because this IS the best place to get "qualified".

     

    [ 06-26-2002, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

    Liberty Ridge

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    You know, I've been trying to climb the Liberty Ridge for years. No wonder I never made it. I had no clue it was in the North Cascades! And to think I always thought it was on Mt Adams!!!

    Boston Basin Permits

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    This question comes up all the time. I'm pretty sure they don't ask for ID up there! So if they bust you, tell them your Joe Schmoe, 165 Glissade Road, Denver, Colorado. [Wink]

     

    Any stories of people actually being escorted down at gun point??? [Mad]

    Go Get Goode!

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Wayne and I climbed the NE butt of Goode in spectacular conditions. A LOT more snow than we expected, but this worked to our advantage; it allowed us to cross a totally raging torment of a river that otherwise would have been impossible. If you want this route, it will be easier sooner than later when the snow bridge collapses in a few more weeks. Hint: the snow also makes the descent on the west side easier. We used SW couloir to Storm-King col. Piece of cake! Got lots of photos too!

    rag wars waged

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    You mean there's actually a difference between these two rags? Bla, Bla, Bla. I stopped subscribing to them when the "bolt" wars started way back. Now I have to see this shit all over cc. The Bolt war is just like the war between Palistines and Israelies. No one will win, it will last forever and there ain't nothin' you and I can do about it. [sleep]

    More deaths: Foraker

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    All deaths in the mountains are tragic but this, in my opinion, has an extraordinary level to it. Can you imagine what these brother's mother (and father) are feeling right now. Reminds me of the WWII story of the Sullivan brothers and the basis for "Saving Private Ryan". My mom was extremely concerned when I guided my father and brother up Rainier a few years ago. This is truly a nightmare come true. I can't empathize by sure can sympathize. [Frown]

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