Climzalot

Mike: Where did we go wrong? Once again everything noted here and the picture are so far from what we saw and experienced. So? What the hell did we do wrong, where the hell were we and where should we have been. To the Chehalis range is what I say. Maybe some other time for that mountain.

Whoa, how about that. Useful, first hand information I hardly know what to do with it. Thanks for the feedback Don. Much appreciated.

Anyone been in here recetly or have more current info? Thanks cgentzel@aai.cc

Atta boy Mr. Layton. I knew you eventually get up that thing. Nice work.

Feel out of my coat on the SW Face of Torment. Worth a try I guess. cgentzel@aai.cc

Mr. Layton. Dont be so hard on your self, you are still the man and we still love you even if you are a failure. Call the shop if you want a ride to Squamish today. kisses and hugs

Anyone been in here recently? Road conditions, snow amounts on the approach, info on the South Face, feasibility of a car to car mission tomorrow? greatly appreciated cgentzel@aai.cc

Any info on the road conditions getting in there? How about the South Face route? Thanks Much cgentzel@aai.cc

Went to give this a go yesterday but wound up just climbing Torment for a variety of reasons. Conditions on the traverse looked quite do-able. I think there is quite a bit more mandatory snow travel right now than there might be later in the season. None of it looked to bad but that means you would be spending quite a bit more time in boots and crampons rather than a rock climbing shoe of sorts. I think the climb is ready for an ascent or two this year if it has not already seen one (none in summit register) and I would love some beta when it goes down. Feel free to email if you have any specific questions and I will attempt to give some pertinent accurate info. cgentzel@aai.cc

Climbed Yak Crack 6/15 and the route is plenty dry if anyone is wondering.

Climbed Yak Crack 6/15 and the route is plenty dry if anyone is wondering.

No I must have missed the snow cave. I wish I would have seen it and I could have gotten your buddies back their stuff.

No I must have missed the snow cave. I wish I would have seen it and I could have gotten your buddies back their stuff.

Climbed it on Saturday. Feel free to email for details. cgentzel@aai.cc

Uhhhhhhh. What happened to the route reports section? Sorry.

Check out the brief trip report under the North Cascades section. I just spoke with friends who came off Baker today and it sounds like the snow has not changed since the time of that report. Expect soft snow all the way except for small patches on the face. cgentzel@aai.cc

I talked to the ranger station in Marbelmount last week and they said there is major work taking place on the road right now due to washouts, windfall, and snow. The road is driveable to the 12 mile mark which is still 10.5 miles from Cascades Pass and 8-9 miles from the Eldo-BB trailheads. I asked for and estimated opening time and they did not have an answer for me. It did not sound good. Weeks? If anyone else has heard differently or has better info I would love to hear it. Thanks cgentzel@aai.cc

Word up Mr. Layton. We were hoping to see yall on the summit Saturday but we did not get that far and it sounds like you didnt either. Oh well. We can chock another one up to honing our approoaching skills eh. Well done Coley

Bailed on the North Face at about 7600 feet on Saturday. Bad visibility, rain and soft snow. Approached via the White Salmon Creek. Snow shoes a must right now. Conditions on the face were quite variable. Where the new snow had avalanched it was enjoyable neve but where it had not it was deep and miserable. It was really warm up there on the way down. As soon as we get some freeze thaw action higher up the route will be in great shape. White Salmon looks fine for descent. Please email with specific questions. cgentzel@aai.cc

I hate passing on 2nd hand info, but a friend of mine climbed the route late last week and reported tolerable post holing to the base of the route. Moderate post holing up to the base of the ice pitch. Very dinner platey ice on the ice pitch and then very deep wind deposited snow from the top of the ice pitch to the summit. Minor bergschrund difficulties towards the top. Go left here. There is or was the beginning of a boot pack on the Coleman Deming. Lots of soft snow in the afternoon, considerable wet snow slides between 5 and 6 thousand. Road still closed 4 miles from the trailhead. Hope this helps

-One set of Camalots (big and little optional?) -One set of Aliens (all sizes are good) -One set of nuts (BD are good) The expensive gear is worth it. Slings are personal preference, shoulder length are always best for trad. The gear listed above has yet to fail me in a cragging or alpine environment. Make do with what you have and get more when you can. Enjoy!

Approached to the base of the Stuart Glacier Couloir this weekend and bailed for various reasons. If you are thinking of heading up there and want beta let me know. cgentzel@aai.cc

Used 3 times. Size = Large Perfect shape, $325 cgentzel@aai.cc

Well done Mr. Layton. Quite a change in environments for you in a short time span. From Vegas, sandstone, and sunshine to Leavenworth, snow, and spindrift in a matter of days. Hardcore does not even begin to describe you. Nice job sir. Coley

Glacier Peaks Frostbite Ridge makes a good solo outing. Cant beat the views and surroundings. There is a bit of glacier travel, but crevasse danger is ultra mimimal if you stay on the ridge instead of heading up the Kennedy.