Climzalot

Anyone have some info on "shaken not stirred" on the mooses tooth. Scoped the AAJ already and have read route descriptions. How did it look when you were there Layton.

Outstanding. Thanks for the pic. Do you know if Scott is around for ice climbing this time of year and if so where? I am guessing Kelly is in CO. I should get ahold of those fellers to pick their brains a bit. Do you know what time of year they were in there? Last I heard was their trip two years ago. With the conditions you described maybe this should be one of those late season routes like the one House did on the Mooses Tooth one September. Just a thought. Worth looking at anyway. She looks like a beauty.

Planning a trip to the Ruth and other nearby parts of the range and from the feedback I have gotten so far I am looking at trip dates of April 15-May 15. Looking to climb Mooses Tooth Couloir, Peak 11,300 SW ridge, and maybe a route on Dickey. Does anybody have any feedback on this time frame for ice routes in this area. Typically a little earlier is better for the ice in the Ruth whereas the season for Denali is a bit later. Any feedback? Personal experience with these routes? On a related note, does anyone have info on the big gully to the right of U. Stecks Blood From Stone route and to the left of the ___?wine?_____ Buttress on Dickey? Looks like a nice line from the air but no one has climbed it? Why come? Thanks cgentzel@aai.cc

Climbed this route on Sunday. Conditions are still good but I am sure that is now changing with snowfall. Thanks for the steps Don and company. I didnt even know these mountains existed until a few days ago. Thanks all

EternalX. Dont have any personal experience with recent conditions down there but a friend in the area said it has been pretty cold (single digits) higher up and the couple of feet of snow they have is pretty sugary and bad for travel. He said snowshoes would not make much of a difference. I am not sure what the access is to the Whitney Portal this time of year. You may want to give the ranger station a call in Lone Pine 760-876-6200 or talk to someone at Wilson Eastside Sports in Bishop. I was up there this September and it got down to 18 degrees at Iceberg lake so I would imagine it would be pretty cold this time of year. 3 days would be about right as long as you approach to Iceberg lake on day 1, climb day 2 and head out day 3. A note for ya on the approach, the trailhead is at 8200 and Iceberg lake is at 12,300. Appraoch is 4 miles long. Hard to carry light packs in the winter. Best of luck! cgentzel@aai.cc

Oh Yeah 1. Bear Mtn, DNB 2. South Howser, Beckey Chounaird 3. Slesse, NEB 4. North Ridge of Baker, C2C 5. The Incredible Hulk, Red Dihedral word

I say we revisit this topic near the end of December to determine who truly had the best season. Points could be awarded for technical diffculty, and the grade of the routes, etc. It has been said that the best climber in the world is the one who is having the most fun and I agree. But something has to be said for motivation and the ability to get after it as well. If it came to a betting matter I would have to go with Mr. Layton for the top contender. The man is obsessed and has skills to match. It sounds like many others could raise a glass in agreement that this was the best clibing season to date and hopefully one of many to come.

Dru, Is PageTop the name of that route on Colfax or something else? It has been plenty cold on the North Side of Baker. I was up there last Sunday and there were several flows frozen up on the cliff bands to the left of the hogs back or climbers trail. They are all fairly easy but there was ice and quite a bit of it. Couldnt see Colfax from there though as it was snowing a bit. Even some sunstantial in the creeks on the way up there and it has gotten colder since. Go get it!

How about that ice route on Colfax Peak. Might be worth looking at. Are you still gonna give that a go Mr. Layton.

Someone should consider wandering up the glacier a bit farther and giving the Coleman Headwall a go. Betcha ya its in fine shape right now with a little new snow, some sun, and cold temps. If'n I cant recruit a partner and maybe even if I cant i might be heading that way. Lot more mileage to be had up there than in the icefall. Just a thought.

Tex, forgive me for my ignorance but which route did you climb? The North Face or the Hanging Glacier? And what do you mean by solid Grade IV condition. Are you referring to the water or alpine ice rating of the climbing difficulties encountered or the commitment level of the climb this time of year. I am asking because I am considering the North Face in the next few days an would love some current info. Nice work on the route and thanks for the info. cgentzel@aai.cc

I jotted these down a while back for a friend. They have worked for a few folks so far. I am sure there are errors but this should get you close enough to figure it out. Good luck! Coley North Twin Sister Approach Beta -Drive Mt. Baker Highway to the town of Deming. Just after the town of Deming take a right on Mosquito Lake Road (MLR). Look for the "Welcome Grocery" (blue sign) on the corner. -Drive MLR 4.9 miles to FSR #38. You will see a gravel road on the left shortly after crossing a small bridge in the road. You wont be able to see the FSR 38 sign from MLR but you will see it on the right after making the left turn. -Drive the gravel road for a few miles (3-5?). After a while the road will take a downward and right trending curve. You will have the option to go straight but the road is in worse condition. Take the downhill branch and park at the gate over the river. You wont see the gate from the main road. -Walk the logging road for 45 minutes to 1.25 hours. Watch out for logging trucks. After walking for a while you will see a trail/old logging road on the right next to a pile of gravel. This trail will be marked with little bits of flagging tape. Take this trail. If in doubt, continue up the main road and look for the crest of the hill and another logging road branch to the right. You can see the Twin from here. Turn around and take a left on the last road. -Walk for 2(+ or -) miles on this logging road crossing several overgrown patches and washouts etc. Keep walking until you come to an obvious branch in the road. Take the left or uphill branch. -Keep walking until you come to an obvious branch in the road. Take the left or uphill branch. (yes this is another left and uphill branch) -Continue walking up large switchbacks on a good gravel logging road. -This gravel road will crest a small hill which is the terminus of the West Ridge. Look for a small clearing with some logs and flagging tape and a faint trail heading towards a patch of trees near the base of the ridge. -Reverse your route back to the car or glissade the North Face. -Go home, eat, drink and be merry dinner and tell inflated stories about your climbing ability.

A friend of mine climbed it 4 days ago and reported good/straightforward conditions on the Boston Glacier. They traversed from Sahale over to Boston Peak and down and said this way was quite a bit better than the Sharkfin Col approach. A little loose rock on Boston was the only unpleasant part. The face is definitely in late season condition but they were able to move around obstacles without too much dificulty. Hope this helps somewhat, sorry for the 2nd hand info. Good luck

This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. cgentzel@aai.cc

Just got back from a nice little climbing trip. Made a stop in the Bugs and got the W. Ridge of Pigeon and the Beckey/Chouinard done, went to Valhallas and did that route on Gimli and then checked out the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Conditions were good all the way around. Our last day in the Bugs things were getting cloudy but it has been several days since we were there. Good times. Coley

Way to go Mr. Layton. When I die and come back I hope I am you. We are leaving for the Bugs in 30 minutes sure you dont want a ride? Have a good man. Lets climb when I get back. Coley

Thanks Dru. Probably going to camp at Applebee if its not raining too hard and maybe a few nights over by the Howsers. Ill check the weather link for a comparison. Do you remember which book Gimli is described in or any other source of info for the South Ridge. I know there was a topic on this but I am too lazy to look for it. Thanks much cgentzel@aai.cc

Anyone have any first or second hand info on how things have been up there? Any recommendations on places to get current info on the web. I check cbc.ca for weather but I am sure there is a better spot. Any help and or info is greatly appreciated. cgentzel@aai.cc

Anyone have any first or second hand info on how things have been up there? Any recommendations on places to get current info on the web. I check cbc.ca for weather but I am sure there is a better spot. Any help and or info is greatly appreciated. cgentzel@aai.cc

I have used Alans topos and descriptions on 4-5 climbs so far this year and they have been less than perfect in a few cases, but in my opinion his info has been quite a bit better than most of the other books I have used on the same climbs. He is a little vague on seasons, gear needed, times, and distances, in some cases but that was intentional. The biggest advantage to Alans book is, as stated earlier, his personal experience with the routes. Great book. Coley

Had friends on it 2 days ago and getting over to the cutoff/base of the ridge was pretty involved. He said to stay low and head for the lowest compression zone above the Coleman ice fall. Some years in late season it works best to cross the Coleman and gain the Roosevelt via the compression zone below the upper icefall. Check out the picture of the north side glaciers in either the select book or beckeys guide. The route is in fine shape with little if any vertical sections according to him. Good luck.

Whoa. Sounds like we got lucky on Slesse this Saturday. A few clouds but mostly below us, no rain and very little wind to speak of. Nice route and great views above the clouds. cgentzel@aai.cc

The pocket glacier is still very problematic. It took us 2 hours to find a way across and had to pull some serious shennanigans. Another party who happened across bailed due to the complications. I would say take crampons because they will save you a lot of time and spare some scetchy moves. A small tool was essential. There are still several oportunities for water on the route including a 8x4 snowpatch on the big bivy area. Seriously consider the Crossover Pass descent. The descent off the backside is long and terrible. Dont take mountain bikes, take a 2nd car, whatever it takes to do so is worth it. I got a flat tire on the ride out and had to hike many more miles than I wanted to. Feel free to email with specific questions. cgentzel@aai.cc

Peter, If plans work out as they are currently laid I will be trying to climb Slesse next weekend and I can give you a really fresh comparison of the two climbs. Having not climbed Slesse yet all I can say is that the DNB was fantastic and well worth doing. Highly recommended. Please give a holler if you would like some detailed beta. Enjoy! cgentzel@aai.cc

Peter, If plans work out as they are currently laid I will be trying to climb Slesse next weekend and I can give you a really fresh comparison of the two climbs. Having not climbed Slesse yet all I can say is that the DNB was fantastic and well worth doing. Highly recommended. Please give a holler if you would like some detailed beta. Enjoy! cgentzel@aai.cc