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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Raindawg's New Book

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Is he a professor in his field? Obviously he is an archeologist and scholar, does work or has he worked at a University in the past?

     

    He is a well known scholar, archelogist, author of many books on the subject and professor at a University.

    Baker

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I did the Coleman-Demming route about a month ago. We did not take snow shoes but they would have been helpful for the deep, soft snow conditions we found between tiberline and the glacier especially on the hike out. Otherwise the route at that time was in really good shape with an excellent boot track and no open crevasses. With the cool weather I doubt conditions would have changed a whole lot.

    Aluminum Crampons

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I have the Grivel Air Tech Light and like them for appproaches, mellow glacier slogs, and ski mountaineering. They fit well on everything from approach shoes to ski boots. The one complaint I have is that the bottom points are a bit short so in some circumstances they feel a bit sketchy (e.g. thin layer of snow over ice).

    Guide Needed - Rainier Group Climb July 30th

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    Hey,

     

    Mr RainierGroup,

     

    I am no way interested in being paid or otherwise compensated to guide you, however, I may be interersted in climbing with you since you have the permits all worked out. I would also be happy to show you everything I know (would take about 15 minutes).

     

    I sent you a PM and can also be reached at bighurtbob@hotmail.com.

    Liberty Ridge beta

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Jens,

     

    No, I took two days - car to car in 30 hours, with a 12 hour bivi at Thumb Rock. I have a partner who did the route car to car in under 24 hours. The 18 hours is something I heard somewhere, yet seems very reasonably given good acclimatiztion and conditions.

     

    Dan

     

    Dan

    Liberty Ridge beta

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    So if one was to climb the ridge in one push how long would that take or is that even possible.

    Yes, it is possible and has been done in as little as 18 hours car to car, although that may not be the record.

    Mountaineering boot?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    These are not climbing boots and I would never wear them climbing. One of the things I noticed is no mention of any kind of a shank. That said, I once saw a half dozen Russian kids climb the DC route in late season, all wearing leather tennis shoes with newmatic crampons jury rigged on. The moral of my story is, they may work, but are for sure not optimal.

     

    One solution is to wear running/hiking shoes for the approach/deproach to/from high camp, carrying the plastics on your back and only wear the plastics on summit day.

     

    Another solution is to duct tape the hot spots on your feet and wear the plastics car to car and deal with the discomfort.

     

    One more solution is to spend a bit more (ok, a lot more) and get a good quality leather mountaineering boot that fits your foot well and will serve your various climbing needs for years to come. A couple of models that come to mind are the La Sportiva Nepal EVO and the Scarpa Summit GTX. Both are modern versions of the classic full grain leather mountaineering boot but break in much quicker. They are also lightly insulated. You can wear them ice climbing, mixed alpine climbing, volcano slogging, etc.

    Pack thoughts

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    So my much beloved Serratus Genie is beginning to show extensive signs of wear throughout the fabric. I have already had it repaired once which cost me nearly as much as the original pack.

     

    I have looked around and not found anything as simple, light, and functional as the Genie so I thought of having someone use the pack as a template to make a new one, using the existing shoulder straps and hip belt.

     

    A number of years ago I took a couple of friends up Rainier who were competetive sailors and they both had stuff sacks made from left over scraps of sail cloth. They gave me one as a thank you and I have since used it to carry ice screws, pitons, v-thread hooker, extra picks, and other sharp objects. The durability and weight of the fabric is impressive.

     

    Can anybody comment on the viability and cost of having the pack rebuilt using scraps of sail cloth? Does any body know of a person local to the Seattle area who could do this kind of sewing for a reasonable price?

     

    TIA,

     

    Dan

    Food and tag lines

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    The OP mentioned food so here is what I have been grooving on lately.

     

    Trader Joes cooked brown rice

    Trader Joes Indian Fare (various flavors)

    Trader Joes ethnic flatbread (chapati, tortilla, etc)

     

    The rice comes in a vacuum sealed plastic bag, the Indian Fare in a foil 'retort' type package. You can put the Indian Fare package in a pot of boiling water for a few mintues and combine with the rice and spoon on the flatbread. This is plenty of food for two hungry people for dinner.

     

    Cheers,

     

     

    Dan

     

    Since both the Indian Fare and rice are NOT dehydrated they are not particularly light, but for only a night or two the weight is hardly noticeable, plus that is just that much less water you have to melt for the meal.

    getting to Mount Baker

    in Newbies

    Posted

    I believe there may be shuttles that will get you to Bellingham, but then you are only half way there. You could rent a car in Bellingham for the rest of the ride. I think the best option is to rent a car at SeaTac airport and drive to Mt Baker.

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