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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    WTB ice tool

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    You are welcome. I searched the internet for a good deal and got mine for $183.00 each. One week later I got the Mountaingear catalogue in the mail with the $149.00 price tag. My loss, your gain. I would jump on it fast - at that price my guess they have only a few in stock and are cleaning out the warehouse.

    Solo alpine day trips I-90 corridor

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    I did NEB Chair once in summer. I remember it as a pleasant, solid climb up the 's' shaped gulley, maybe a bit loose once on the ridge, but an easy, clean, leftward traverse across the east face on a ledge system (I recall an old bolt somewhere there) and some blocky climbing on the far left side of the face to gain lower angled heather slopes. These heather slopes were the sketchiest part of the climb. Certainly not hard, not loose, but no pro (no need for a rope at that point anyway). Perhaps the scramble down the gulley to the col was a bit loose but it certainly does not stand out in my mind as being any looser than other Cascades gullies. The rappel down the gulley was a surprise, usually I have done it with one single rope rap over the cornice and downclimbing the rest. This time it took mulitple raps. I do remember taking shelter under chockstones while my partner rapped, but don't remember anything comming down. Burnt into my mind, however, is the horrible scree field below the east face. I did the climb in low top approach shoes and my ankles were pretty banged up afterwards.

     

    Can't remember who said it, but a well know alpinist said the most important attribute for an alpinist is a short memory. Now only if I had the other requisite skills I may have amounted to something in the climbing world.

    Pitons and screws

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I dont plan on doing routes that consider a ton of hammering, but I would like to have a few pitons to bail off of or use in an anchor. What would make a good assortment for the cascades?

     

    I own the following pins:

     

    All Black Diamond

    -Long thin Bugaboo

    -Long medium Bugaboo

    -Standard knife blade

    -Thick knife blade

    -#1 Angle

    -#2 Angle

    -#3 Angle

     

    For most winter alpine routes I carry

    -Long thin Bugaboo

    -Long medium Bugaboo

    -Standard knife blade

    -#1 Angle

    -#2 Angle

     

     

    Also, what is a good number of ice screws for a begginer to have and of what sizes. These would go to montana, canada, and here in the cascades as well.

     

    Thanks

     

    Are you interested in waterfalls or winter alpine routes? For winter alpine routes I find shorter screws to be more useful and carry 1 10cm, 2 13cm, 2 16 cm, and 1 19 cm (for V-threads) in addition to a medium sized rock rack (the above selection of pins, 6 medium sized nuts, 4 Camalots .5 - 2.0). For pure waterfall routes I carry 9-10 screws, mostly 16cm, a couple of 19cm and a couple of 13 cm screws.

    Solo alpine day trips I-90 corridor

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    The Tooth is pretty easy to run in, solo up and down and run out.

     

    Lundin Peak has a nice low 5th route on it.

     

    South Face of Ingalls Peak is about 5.4 and is easy to solo up and down. I think there may be an easier down climb as well?

     

    West Ridge of Stuart is 5.6 and is doable in a day and the descent down Cascadian Couloir is non-technical (but not enjoyable either).

    [TR] Shuksan - Price Glacier, attempt 8/23/2010

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I just saw this and thought I would add my opinion since I have nothing better to do.

     

    I climbed Price Glacier August 15, 2009. http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/542872/price-glacier-mt-shuksan.html I found the route to be fairly serious and exposed to significant objective hazards - the type of route where one should try to climb quickly. I applaud M for realizing she was having a bad day and turning around before anyone got into trouble. I know how it feels to not feel well yet not wanting to dissapoint or lose face in front of partners. Its not an easy decision to make but M made the right one.

     

    Soloing the Price and leaving your partner to reverse that bushwack was a bad idea on your part. It would have taken you two days to get back to the car at the Nooksack. What was she supposed to do while waiting? Knit? Climbers don't leave partners merely to satisfy their own ambitions at the expense of the other partner.

    Multi pitch routes at Smith Rock

    in Rock Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    All of the ones that have been mentioned are great. I would add the Pioneer Face of Monkey Face as having one of the most spectacular postions in all of cragdom. The aiding is easy, there is a bolt ladder do don't let that deter you. In fact Gene Pires said he saw some Euro dudes French freeing the section with ice axe leashes attaches to carabiners.

    home wall - attaching directly to wall studs?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith

    Hey, that's gettin' somewhere. If you could fill in a noob as far as the idea you're talking about, I wouldn't be against putting in an access for walking right up to it. Now you've opened a can of worms :lmao:

     

    What you would do is remove the one or two studs directly in front of the panel and then double up the studs adjacent to the new opening. Then put in doubled horizontal studs about 6' up the wall bridging the doubled vertical studs to add structural integrity. Cut the plywood panel to span the opening (should be 48" wide assuming you have framed on 16" centers and removed only the two studs directly in front of the panel. The panel will be easily removable if you use screws (with washers) to attach it to the studs.

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