DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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I was pleased to see the winter/spring routes addressed. Nice job.
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Price Glacier goes.
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also looking for slideshow material. i was thinking it would be cool to make a slideshow of a particular area (like the Bugaboos or something) and have everyone who has climbed there (I have not unfortunately) show some pics of what they did.
just an idea.
I have some mediocre photos of some moderate local climbs from this summer if that helps.
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Z-Man has done it: http://www.summitpost.org/route/259121/northwest-arete.html
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Nice. I'm looking forward to doing this next month.
cool. you gonna knock it out car-to-car?
I'm doing it as a mellow overnighter. I likes me some camping.
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Nice. I'm looking forward to doing this next month.
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Awesome, now there will be something worth climbing in North Bend.
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Very nice TR
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There is a cliff about 3 miles south of I-90 on SR 900. If you are driving south towards Renton it is on the right hand side of the road. It has been used primarily for dry tooling, but could be used for rock climbing too. There are lead and anchor bolts.
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Thanks Curt.
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Very nice photography. I have been wandering the Cascades for going on 20 years and I have to agree with your assessment that many routes need to be done earlier.
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Has anyone done Mt Challenger in September? How is the glacier crossing that time of year? Icy? Poor snow bridges?
TIA,
Dan
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Shit, that's Chad_A from this board. I have climbed with him a number of times. He is a great guy. I hope he heals quickly.
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I was wonderign the same thing so I Googled it: http://www.peakbagger.com/list.aspx?lid=5032&sort=promft&u=ft
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Is the road washed out? Can you drive to the regular park spot just before the creek?
We were able to drive the road all the way to the Nooksack Cirque trailhead which is the end of the road. I can't say what is up the Hannegan Road though.
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Very nice photography.
Thanks! Coming from you that is a huge compliment!
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I am pretty darn sure we climbed the Price Glacier. The bike ride is 13 miles which took 39 minutes riding not fast.
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So, does it uphold it's classic status?
Good question. Mt Shuksan is a pretty classic peak and the Price Glacier is a very good ice climb, so yeah, I would say it deserves its classic status.
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Good work Dan! Ha I've been looking into doing this in the next couple weeks...too late?
It will probably still go. Bear in mind that there was a lot of route finding and some very steep pitches. And it is exposed to serac fall.
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Photos added.
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We were able to climb ice the entire way. No rock climbing necessary.
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Trip: Mt Shuksan - Price Glacier
Date: 8/15/2009
Trip Report:
jesselillis and climbed Price Glacier over the weekend. We approached under cloudy skies and got very wet from wet brush. We found a great campsite on a rock bench right below the glacier. We woke up the next day to clearer skies. By 6:30 we were climbing.
We climbed a lot of ice, some it very steep. We simu-climbed some of the easier snow fields. At one point a serac calved off right above Jesse at a belay. Fortunately most of the debris went into a crevasse and Jesse as unhurt.
We summited a little over 12 1/2 hours after starting. We had hoped to get below Winnie's Slide to bivi, but darkness over took us and we bivied on the glacier.
The next day we woke and were on the move by 6 AM. Then, displaying the kind of brillance I am known for, I led us down the wrong way. We survived the descent and made it out to the car 12 hours (!) later.
I retrieved my bike from the Lake Ann trailhead parking lot and rode down to the car then came back and picked up Jesse. It is a wonder I didn't get lost somewhere in between.
All in all a great trip with a super strong partner.
Log crossing
Rock slab bivi
Price Glacier
Close up of Price Glacier
A steep pitch
High on the route
Just before nearly getting clobbered by serac fall
Looking down the summit pyramid ridge
The inobvious descent route
Gear Notes:
Used 6 screws and 2 pickets
Approach Notes:
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Last year at the rope up Tokogirl and I did the Enchantment Lakes loop trail run one of the days. I would like to do another trail run and would love company. Anybody care to join me? We can run a different trail this year (Icicle Ridge perhaps?).
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I have always camped at the hairpin right off of the road. There are official campgrounds east of Washington Pass.
[TR] Molar Tooth - North Ridge 8/31/2009
in North Cascades
Posted
Thanks for the report. I'll have to add this route to the list.