DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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The location of your wall is poorly considered
Well, sure if you consider niggling little details like electrical codes but the wall looks pretty kick ass.
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Feel free. It sounds like a fun project. I wish I had room in my garage for a wall.
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I have over 30 years experience building homes and have built one commercial climbing gym, so I feel qualified to offer a reasonable answer.
Newer homes are typically built with 2" x 6" studs on 16" centers (for energy efficency,not structural integerity - the change in building codes came about during the Carter administration when heating costs were extremely high - but I digress). This construction is plenty strong for building into an overhaning climbing wall. 2"x 4" may flex too much on overhanging walls. Make sure you use at least 5/8" plywood or better yet 3/4" plywood. I've seen people rip holds right off the wall on thinner plywood pannels. Also screw the panels to the studs and use washers between the screw head and the plywood. Questions? Feel free to email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com
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Any one have any ideas for finding cheap used Invernos or similar?
Second Ascent in Seattle often has very lightly used plastic boots for pretty cheap: http://secondascent.com/sa/index.php. If you don't live in the area you may want to give them a call to see what they have on the shelves.
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I have for years taken along a set of the four largest BD hexes in addition to cams. On some alpine climbs I have taken just the hexes which worked very well.
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Chris,
Welcome back. We will have to get together when I am feeling a little better.
Dan
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New to forums. Looking for route conditions for DC route on Mt Rainier.
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bzzzt. there is absolutely no good reason to assume there isn’t an even distribution of degrees from Harvard and Podunk U among both set of degreed workers (public and private). The public sector has more than twice the number of workers with advanced degrees. Don't fudge that very important fact.
Actually there is. Assuming there is even close to the same amount of Harvard grads in public sector jobs as community college grads is just plain foolish. On average Ivy league educations earn more and fill those evil regressive corporate shill type jobs you so loathe.
Shaquanda the DMV counter worker didn't go to Princeton.
I work in the public sector. The majority of my colleagues went to ivy league schools including Brown, Harvard, Yale, Duke, Tufts as well as smaller but still excellent private schools including Smith College, Williams College not to mention those folks that went to very good public schools such as Cal Poly.
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Late season snow storms (like Rainier is probably experiencing right now) can actually bring the route into good condition - making bare ice into nice neve, so long as you get a good stretch of weather for the ascent. But Gene is right, looks like what little summer we had is over - no Native American summer for us this year.
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Anybody use the Montbell Alpine Pack 50? If so how does it carry and climb? How is the durability? How do you attach crampons to it?
Thanks,
Dan
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These photos beg the question why are they climbing the side of a dam? For the practice?
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Not to shit on your idea, but why not hire a local Kiwi guide? You won't have to pay for airfare or accommodations so it probably won't cost you that much more and you pretty much know that by hiring an IFMGA certified guide you are gettting a top notch guide who knows the local conditions.
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Nice trip report and excellent photos of an aspect I had not seen before. Thank you.
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I went with the Vipers purely because I found a pair on sale for $90.00 off of retail. More than enough of a savings to justify buying the Black Diamond spinner umbilicals. Looks like this old climber is joining the 21 century, already in progress.
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One last thought: how much mixed are you going to be doing? For mixed, the Nomic remains supreme. For waterfall ice, it still stands supreme. The Quark shines in the alpine environment. Figure out where you'll be spending the bulk of your time. Maybe you should be looking at the Nomic?
That you for your considered opinion. When I say mixed, I mean the origninal meaning of mixed - 'alpine mixed' not bolted sport climbs. I have placed enough pitons and hacked out enough belay ledges and bollards to appreciate a proper hammer and adze.
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when in doubt, always buy french
Certainly is good advice when buying wine.
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So, my wife has decided to start ice climbing again and since I gave away my ice tools and have been using hers the last couple of years that means I need a new pair. I have narrowed down my choices to the Black Diamond Viper and the new version of the Petzl Quark.
I will use the tools for winter alpine and mixed climbing and frozen waterfalls and am considering trying the leashless thing. (I have used various leashless tools for dry tool cragging, but never in the alpine or on waterfall routes).
What say the peanut gallery? Quark or Viper.
Thanks for you considered opinions.
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As long as you aren't melting snow for water, just heating liquid water for cooking then 2 8 oz cannisters should be more than enough.
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Yeah, ditto. Just ask Dan about the time I nearly killed myself trying to rap off of a bush. Thank god we didn't post any pictures of THAT trip.
Shit, I had nightmares about it for three days and it wasn't even me who nearly got chopped.
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I use a piece of 3/8" OSB (Oriented Strand Board) with 1/2" holes drilled to reduce weight as a stove base, although I have never used it inside the tent (inside vestibule yes) so I can't vouch that it won't melt your tent floor. It will keep it from melting into the snow though.
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You might have some of the best mixed climbing conditions at the time. Colfax would be in shape, some of the N facing routes on Baker and other higher peaks.
Good suggestion.
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Black Peak
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I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but here is a photo. There is a fair amount of work that needs to be done but generally in better shape than I am for being the same age.
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Thanks for all the replies. Found nice Ericson 23 with reasonable moorage. The bottom has apparently dropped out of the used sailboat market because you can get a hell of a boat for dirt cheap.
home wall - attaching directly to wall studs?
in Climber's Board
Posted · Edited by danielpatricksmith
It is actually an excellent question, one that Chad should consider if he plans on selling the house in the future. As it is currently configured it may not meet code but might allow a person to slip behind the climbing wall to reset a tripped breaker. My previous response was meant to be ironic which does not seem to transmit well on the interwebs. The wall itself looks to be very well constructed.