DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Why all the hate for the shelter? I prefer it to carrying a tent or sleeping in a cave. To each his own I guess.
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wimps
the best way to introduce your honey to the pleasures of climbing is to get your -20C sleeping bags and take a nice cheap ice climbing trip to Banff. Hostels? Hotels? Rocky Mnt Ski Lodge? Akai? Too expensive, you sleep in the car. You can keep each other warm. And makes for nice late starts. Breakfast? That's what the white gas camp stove is for, as well as Safeway. You can regale her with how you are training for Denali so you have get get used to using the stove in -15C. Oh and all temperatures are in CELSIUS. Leave Fahrenheit in the States, like miles. The camp stove is also for warming up your oil pan. Espresso? What are you from Seattle?!? The nice long drive to Weeping Wall allows you to run the car heater and warm up. Start on WI2? Not a chance, start on Weeping Right with her in tow. Since you know your trip will be pretty short A Priori, might as well get some real climbing in, eh? You'll be soloing because she doesnt know how to belay yet, but the falls are clean. No need to worry about av danger on Weeping Wall, might as well STACK THE DECK IN YOUR FAVOR! Next day you send Murchison, because the drive is just as long from town and the hike warms you up too (finally warm....). The only pleasures allowed on this trip are on the final day, a single trip to Laggans Deli. The money that you save from this trip has already been spent on Marmot 8000m parkas to keep you warm at belays.
(This describes somewhat accurately the first 3 or 4 trips I took to Banff!)
Come clean Alex. I introduced you to your wife who was already a kick ass climber.
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There are just very few doctors who mountaineer
Not sure about that.
Yep, among the mountaineers you see alot of engineers, doctors, etc. But among the doctors you see alot less % of mountaineers.
Any mountain guide will tell you doctors make up an unusally large percentage of their guests.
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The mullet and spandex undies do make me weep.
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There are just very few doctors who mountaineer
Not sure about that.
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I don't know any personal trainers who climb, but know a few who are into other time intensive sports like Ironman triathalons and such. Not a bad gig really. Get a job in Bellevuve, Issaquah and train hot soccer moms.
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The bugaboo on N Ridge Pinnacle Peak (I erroneously wrote Pyramid) is a beehive shaped gendarme of compact andesite. Well featured for climbing, but hard to get pro. Bring KBs/Bugaboo pitons.
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I had read that Hermann Buhl had used some kind of stimulants as well.
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cord is better than webbing for raps because the sheath protects the core. You can inspect it and know its ok if the sheath is not burned through, not so with webbing.
That was sort of my thinking too.
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I use 7mm perlon cord instead of tublular webbing for rappel anchors. In my mind the round cord weakens less than webbing when ropes are pulled over it. I have no idea if this is true or if any testing has been done, but I figure it can't be any worse. Anybody seen data to support or refute this notion?
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Vicodin is far from hardcore pain meds, basically Tylenol and a little codeine. In my kit I carry the following drugs:
Sodium Naproxen (Aleve) - the strongest NSAID
Asprin
Garlic tablets
Keflex broad spectrum antibiotic
Dilaudid - real pain killer
I have had a lot of experience with these drugs and my knowledge outstrips most folks due to my education and personal experience. Obviously, one needs to know when not to take these drugs, (when they are contraindicated) as well as when to take them. These are all for personal use, dispensing them to patients without a medical license is a no no.
Other drugs like dexamethazone I don't carry because I generally don't climb higher than 6000 meters. Also don't carry Diamox because I don't have problems at the moderate altitudes I climb at.
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Pretty much concur with Water:
Bottoms
Briefs (boxer-briefs - the best of both worlds)
Mid Weight long underwear
Mid weight soft shell pants
Gaitors
Top
Mid weight long sleeve zip tee
Marmot DriClime windshirt
Montbell Versalite shell
Patagonia Micropuff hooded parka
polypro glove liners
Fleece gloves
Primaloft insulated gloves
Warm hat
Ski goggles
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Matt meant the North Ridge of Pinnacle. Easy in a day.
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There was a place in Squamish that did that kind of work. That was years ago, not sure if they are still in business.
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I have also used a big Arc'Teryx Bora, it was a cushy pack.
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Or an aluminum extension ladder.
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From here:http://www.adn.com/2012/02/20/2327695/sole-avalanche-survivor-we-werent.html
'We weren't being idiots,'
"I pulled the trigger," she said, inflating two air bags attached to her backpack.
"Unfortunately, the freak accident happened," she said. "One of the skiers (above me) set off the avalanche."
"I was lucky. I'm alive because of a safety device that a lot of people aren't aware of," Saugstad said. "I want to get the word out that these packs are available and they work.
"If this wasn't a good example, I don't know what is."
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Switched to Chrome, works fine. Like the Sterno stove stand!
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What am I doing wrong that I can't access the blog?
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Trying to access your blog via the link and it won't display. Is the link correct? Anxious to see it. Thanks.
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I read an account attributed to the woman stating she had skiied the line and was waiting in trees when another skiier set off the slide entraining her and her companions.
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Good luck with the tryouts. Try to be tall and caucasion if you can help it. Cut your hair, take out earings, cover up any tattoos.
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I suggest spending an afternoon in a local park with a cheap tarp from the hardware store, some trekking poles, and parachute cord practicing tarp configurations that you've learned from all the videos posted on youtube related to tarp camping (good ones from hunters on there with heavy southern accents).
Or pick up a Black Diamond Betamid for $79.00. Easy to pitch, rock solid in surprisingly nasty conditons, very durable.
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Need a job, also eh? In Washington and Oregon, good luck with that. For the most part, I'm told they don't exist.
I don't agree with that. I field about one job offer a week. I've had to tell some recruiters to stop calling me. Heck, I took my car to have the emissions inspected and was offered a job. I think if you have a few different skill sets you should be ok.
What if the shelter at Muir is full?
in Newbies
Posted
Last time I spent the night in the Muir shelter there were six of us, two were former Mt Rainier climbing rangers. I won't out who it was, but one asked if anybody had any pot.