DPS
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... what do you bring to the summit? I realize that it will vary based on season, route and weather but in keeping with my original questions, what would your summit pack contain for a July trip?
Assuming I'm not doing a carry-over, I bring everything minus:
-Tarp/Tent
-Sleeping pad
-Sleeping bag
-Stove kit
Pretty much everything is worn (harness, crampons, rope, ice axe, helmet) so the summit pack weight is very light. A belay jacket, 2 liters of water, some food, and extra gloves/mittens, glacier glasses, and some odds and ends is pretty much it.
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Just beaware, the suspension is very simple (foam pad, unpadded hipbelt) and forces you to pack light.
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Hey Dan, how do you think that pack would fit on a 5'-10" frame with only 32" inseams? Yeah, I know, I'm built wierd...
I'm 5' 9" with a 32" inseamm - I can't imagine in inch would make a big difference.
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I should mention the Montbel Balance Light 40 (available at pro mountain sports) might be the best value in a Rainier sized pack. Its volume is more like 45 liters, it weighs 2lb 4 oz and has everything you need (almost) and nothing you don't. It would be nice if it had a crampon holder.
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I'd love to know your'e gear / pack breakdown for how you manage a ~30lb pack. I'm by no means an ultralight expert, but I think I do OK, and still came it at around 40+ lbs. Could probably have trimmed a few pounds but 10+ would be a stretch.
Seconded...
white mesh ballcap
fleece hat
glacier glasses
three LED headlamp with 2 AAA lithium batteries
Petzl Elios helmet
boots Scarpa Summit GTX
liner socks - (2 pair)
heavy socks- (2 pair)
light weight nylon gaitors
cheap poly pro liner gloves
Primaloft insulated gloves
Soft shell pants
mid weight long underwear
short sleeve poly tee shirt- light colored
Marmot Driclime windshirt
Montbel Versalite shell
hooded Patagonia Micropuff Primaloft belay jacket
Petzl Vasak crampons
old Grivel Air Tech Racing ice axe
simple, unpadded, webbing harness
locking carabiner
picket
pulley
prusiks - 5-6mm perlon
slings - 2 single, 2 double spectra
carabiners - 6 wire gate, 3 light lockers
Rando rope - 30 meters, 8 mm
high quality down sleeping bag - 20 degrees (Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering both make bags weighing little more than 1 lb
Black Diamond Betamid tarp
thin Evazotte pad
Montbel Blanace Light 40 pack
trekking poles
pocket rocket stove
fuel
1 liter pot
pot lifter
knife 2", 1/2 serated blade
tiny Bic lighter
map
compass
1 - 1 liter HDPE Nalgene water bottle, doubles as a mug
1 - 1 liter bladder with no hose
Disposable plstic bowl - Ziplock
plastic spoon
food
sunblock 2 oz
lip balm
toilet paper
blue bags
first aid kit - For blisters and small wounds
Sharing the tarp, rope, stove kit with my partner brings my pack weight to 30 -35 lbs
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I like carrying a stove because curling up with a nice hot water bottle along with having a hot drink makes those long, cold bivis more bearable.
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A liter of pot?
For emergencies.
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..... but I'd be curious to hear what, if anything, folks toss in their packs for daytrips in the winter.
3/5 of a Z-Rest pad which folded in thirds forms the back panel of my backpack
Bivi sack
Extra socks
Pocket Rocket, 1 liter pot, tiny lighter, 8 oz fuel cannister
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I hope he doesn't have serious cold related injuries, just a good story to tell.
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The last thing I ordered from MEC was a fat Evazotte sleeping pad. The shipping cost more than the damn pad.
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Shoot, just about the worst weather of the season too.
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Sobo,
MEC does ship some brands to the US, but not all brands due to some kind of non compete agreeement. (E.g. Black Diamond). At least that used to be the case.
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July may be too late for Hood due to rock fall concerns, and this is shaping up to a low snow year.
Does anyone have any links or sources to long term snow pack observations or analysis of snowfall from the present into the future?
This is a good start:http://www.nwac.us/
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is there anyplace you can drive to above 8,000 feet within a couple of hours from Rainer?
I can't think of any road much above 6,500 ft, other than maybe some logging roads perhaps.
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PS: Did I make an ass of myself to you, too, back then Dan??
Not that I recall. I've always liked you. I'm pretty sure I cornered the market on making an ass out of myself from years 1990 through, well currently.
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I'd say it has a lot to do with your fitness level. The aforementioned plan is a good one if you are in extremely good shape. It takes a surprisingly long time to recover from these types of activities. I would err on the side of caution and climb the first day or two at altitude and then rest and ram hydrate.
Good points.
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I did Kautz Memorial Day WE 1999, as well as FF and Fuhrer Thumb over different years. If fact, that is the first time I met Sobo - he was doing a recon for Pete Rikke. Pete's wife mildly chided me for wearing shorts and gaitors with no sun block behind my knees and called me 'Dear'. But I digress. I used a single axe and walked straight down when descending Kautz and FF. Having read trip reports and seen photos of late season conditions on the Kautz, I can easily see using two tools, ice screws, and belayed climbing.
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I will probably be in the area 4-5 days before the rest of my climbing party.
Here is a possible itinerary
Days 1-2: Climb Adams spending a night at the Lunch Counter
Day 3: Chill in Hood River, rehydrate, eat, relax.
Day 4: Hike to Camp Muir
Day 5: Chill, rehydrate, eat, relax at Paradise.
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academically speaking I'd carry a weather balloon and a canister of helium obviously. go light and fast, except for that gear and some food. if i fall in, I'll float out!
That is actually quite brilliant. Carry a big mylar balloon, a length of wire, and a small helium cannister. Loft the balloon, connect the wire to the antenna of your cell phone and make the call. Other climbers are likely to see the balloon and will prolly check the crack. That is if you survive the fall.
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If a soloist falls in a crevasse and he can't update his Facebook page, will anyone care?
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Do radio waves penetrate glacial ice?
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Welcome,
The Muir option is a good one. The Adams/Hood option lets you see more of the Cascades, more 'ticks' if that is your thing. For optimal acclimatization, you need to have enough time to ascend to altitude 2 -3 times, allowing plenty of rest before attempting Rainier.
Dan
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I'm sure calling her 'lady' to her face will help your cause. I have to say, I loved the voice over - cut to to her in the living room - back to the action style editing. Very engaging little film. I think I starting breathing again when she placed the gold camn.
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Thanks Sobo.
Preparing for July Mt. Rainier Climb
in Climber's Board
Posted
An easy way to save 2.2 pounds is to drink a liter of water on the drive to the TR, drink another liter while you register, pack, and gear up, and carry only a liter of water for the approach, refilling from streams and adding chlorine dioxide disinfectent. You second liter container is an empty bladder which weighs about nil.