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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

  1. I was openly critical of a hiker who, against posted leash laws, took her dog on an exposed summit unleashed. The dog chased a mountain goat and fell and was injured. A couple posters (KirkW, Num1Num (I think) accused me of 'being mean to dogs'. I am not mean to dogs, I own two dogs and love them dearly. I think it is unreasonable for dog owners to expose their pets to unnecessary risks while ignoring posted leash laws that would have prevented the accident.

  2. Four people died this January, 2 were going to Muir and 2 to the summit. They might have lived if they had their snow cave skills down.

    That's pretty speculative to assume the hikers/climbers did not know how to dig a snow cave. It may be that they dug great snow caves and are still there.

     

    Granted that was winter but sometimes there's not much difference.

     

     

    I'd say there is a huge difference between mid winter and mid July, having climbed Rainier multiple times during both periods.

  3. While climbing NF of Chair in winter for the first time I was belaying my second from the top of the first pitch. This was right after Nelson and Potterfield's guidebook came out so there were a dozen parties on the face. One guy leading, about 100' above the 'schrund leans back on this tools and simply falls off the face, hits the slope and keeps sliding. About six climbers cued up walk over to him, pick him up and carry him out.

  4. I think a lot of new climbers wring their hands over what to carry on the Big R because it is one of the few variables they have control over. One can also train appropriately, but one can't control the weather, objective hazards, conditions on the mountain, or their physiology and reaction to altitude. Also, taking time off from busy schedules, flying across the country, etc costs more time and money than driving from Seattle so non locals want to stack the odds in their favor as much as possible. Not to mention non locals do not have the opportunity to work out their systems on lower but similar mountains like Mt Baker.

  5. I suppose a shovel can make a relatively good tent anchor but if that is it's primary purpose I can think of a number of better options.

    Deadmanned trekking poles work well in snow or with rocks piled on them in dirt.

    I realize that the decision to bring any certain piece of gear can be right or wrong based on the specific conditions we encounter. So the best we can do is make the most educated decision based on the best beta we can get. If we approach our planning in this way at least we stack the odds in our favor.

    One approach is to bring all the gear to the trailhead and make a decision on what to leave behind based on recent climber/ranger reports, current weather forecasts, conversations with returning climbers, etc.

  6. FWIW I used a shovel at Camp Muir once to keep our tent from collapsing in an unforcasted heavy snow event. Not a bad idea to bring to base camp.

    FWIW, never use a shovel to remove snow from the tent itself. Small burrs can catch and easily tear the tent wall. Use a gloved hand or arm to sweep snow off.

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