DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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No, sorry if I was not clear. We did not bring snow shoes or skis and did not need them. Locals said there was more snow than usual for a Memorial Day Weekend. We did get alpine starts from Bunny Flats and from our high camp at 11k to take advantage of firmer snow conditions, but even descending in the heat of mid day we were not post holing terribly.
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I climbed the Casaval Ridge over Memorial Day WE 2009. Locals said there was more snow than usual. We did not bring floatation and did not need it. I did wish I brought my skis for the West Face descent though. That looked like a sweet run.
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The overwhelmingly majority of us in the NW prefer down over synhetic for a big layer, for obvious reasons of performance/weight for the conditions we mostly encounter here. .
660 fill is bulky, leaks feathers, and doesn't last. Spend the extra and get a MH Phantom or equivalent with hood - go 800 fill.
I agree on all points. I have two belay parkas, a Patagonia Micropuff which is warm enough for everything in the Cascades except for Rainier in the dead of winter. I have a Wild Things Belay parka that I bought for Alaska, which is plenty warm, but I wish I would have gone with down because AK is dry, and down is lighter and more compressible. If you go with down, pop for 800+ fill. Down is an investment that will pay divends for many years if properly cared for.
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This article may have some helpful advice: http://www.summitpost.org/alpinism-101-an-introduction/756518
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IMNSHO, trying to buy one parka that covers everything you mentioned is a mistake. I would say get a 100 gram Primaloft hooded parka for the PNW, and a quality, baffeled, hooded 800+ fill down parka for the drier and colder mountains.
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Free climbing the route without using the bolts is a stronger statement than chopping it. It sets a bar that future climbers can either jump higher to clear or stoop lower to crawl under. Kind of like Messner and Habler's O2-less ascent of Everest.
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Icicle Canyon in Leavenworth has a number of domes and formations that you can walk around the backside to drop a top rope on. The basalt columns at Smith Rock and the formation Rope a Dope crack are on might be TRable as well.
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Man,I'm worried. Where the heck are these guys?
My guess would be on the Nisqually Glacier.
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I made one out of a wire coat hanger. Have used it for years and it works just fine.
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far out that guy must be fast.
Having repeated some of his runs I can confirm that he is indeed very fast. He beat my time on the Enchantment Lakes loop by a full hour, and that was only 20 miles and few thousand feet elevation gain.
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The storm was forecast days ahead and was forecast to be very severe.
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For the record, when you've taken as many showers with both dogs and Peter Whittaker as I have, only then can you call me out on either
Ok buddy, whatever.
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Ok, I get the reference to Sasha and Bernese Mountain Dogs. For the record, I like dogs. I have two dogs. I called out the owner for their violation of leash laws and exposure to a dangerous situation which lead to the unfortunate fall and rescue of Sasha. If you can't see the difference, well, you're pretty stupid.
As for Peter, if he doesn't like being called a dick, he should stop acting like one.
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The Whittakers, and in fact the entire staff of RMI are enthusiasts of Bernese Mountain dogs. When word of your smearing of both Peter Whittaker and poor little Sasha becomes public knowledge, your safety around any type of canine will clearly be in jeopardy.
Have fun, Alpo man. Best stay away from dog park
WTF are you talking about?
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I may have written with a measure of hyperbole. They have the Whittaker Bunkhouse and a hamburger stand or something of that nature, in addition to the gear shop. I've only met Big Lou once and liked him, but like you said, Peter not so much.
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P.S. LOL on the "Whittaker Cartel"
Thanks, I feel it appropriate given their long time monopoly on the mountain, their questionable dealings with the former park superindentent, and their various other enterprises including restaurants, gear stores, and motels. Plus Peter is a dick.
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Aren't all radios line of sight and would have the same limitations as cell phones?
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One of my partners who had crazy endurance (Aaron Musik) did it in < 24, and trail runner extraordinaire Leor Pantilat did it in less time than that.
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It's tempting and easy to second-guess decisions of missing people from the comfort of a soft sofa in a warm living room.
I'm not aware of any hard-and-fast rules of mountaineering. All this chatter about minimum weather windows, months to stay off the volcanoes, etc. is just the opinion of the poster, or someone from whom they are borrowing credibility.
Personally, I've continued climbs on days when most people would have turned around, and I've fled on days when many people kept going. I have my own set of rules and guidelines, and also try not to judge others based on them.
So rather than toss out Krakauer-like judgement of these missing folks, let's perhaps send them some good energy (or prayer or whatever you prefer) and hope, collectively, that they'll beat the odds and emerge from this storm cycle unscathed.
Agreed. Most of us have done stupid ass shit and by the grace of God survived. Let's hope that is the case for these missing climbers and hikers.
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Has anybody read the comments in the above linked article? This gem strikes me as particularly odd:
"I remember a comment by Ed Viesturs (not sure of the spelling) at the time of the loss of two climbers on Mt. Hood in the early winter a few years ago. He basically said that he never climbs in the Northern Hemisphere after late November, even on 10K feet peaks...if he gets the strong urge to do so, he heads south."
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Ashland is about 400 miles from Mount Rainier.[/url]
Good call, as I was writing Ashland it didn't sound quite right. I meant to write Ashford. I'm sure the Whittaker Cartel would be happy to sell you a shower for the low, low price of all your money.
Good suggestion on the private campgrounds/cabins. Quite a few small outfits just outside the south entrance to the park that probably have showers.A quick Google search turned up quite a few:
http://www.threebearslodge.net/
http://www.almostparadiselodging.com/
http://www.deepforestcabins.com/
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One winter day while driving SR 18 from 1-5 to 1-90 I saw THREE SUVs on their backs within a five mile distance. Each one was turtled right after a curve or a bridge.
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I can' think of any, but Enumclaw has a public swimming pool which has showers. I have found some gyms also offer showers for a nomimal fee, but once again, can't think of any that close to Ashland.
Tired of me yet? Snow shoes on mt.shasta in may?
in Newbies
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Here is a very informative web page on Mt Shasta: http://www.summitpost.org/mount-shasta/150188. Also, Billy Goats Tavern and the burrito restaurant in Mt Shasta City are both recommended.