DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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I have some 1/2 draws that I use for cams, just a single beaner and a 1/4 length spectra sling.
I do the same thing for alpine climbing. I carry 8-10 single length sewn spectra slings, 2-3 of which have a single biner just for extending Camalot placements. All of my other single slings are configured as alpine draws. It saves the weight of maybe 3 carabiners, but everything adds up.
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The OP mentioned Denali. If I head back to AK, I would go with this: http://www.bradleyalpinist.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=71 Not a hard shell laminate, not a softshell, but windproof, super breathable, and highly water resistant, certainly enough for the dry AK Range. I have a WT Belay Jacket and a sleeping bag with Epic and they are pretty great.
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Ground hog Day in the Tumwater. Three pitches, sort of cracky, sort of slabby.
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Ray Jardine described white wheat flour as having so many nutrients removed so that not even bacteria could grow on it which is what makes it shelf stable.
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I already got me a revolver
The Revolvers seem pretty ideal, any idea of how well the rope tracks in the pulley in z haul systems?
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Hey goobers, take a standard pulley apart, go down to NAPA, buy a closed sealed bearing and save yourself $50.
I must be a goober because I'm not clear on the bearing issue. Will a closed sealed bearing give you the same functionality of the pulley and rachet combo of the Micro Traxion? Do closed sealed bearings only rotate in one direction or something?
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As I was making mirepoix for rice pilaf I thought of a couple of other cracks and edited my list, including Pearly Gates. Good call, several good candidates on that wall. Also, my list includes some 5.7s and some 5.10s, a little outside the request range, but still very worthwhile cracks and most of the 5.10s can be toproped pretty reasonably.
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Outer Space and Orbit link up, Dogleg Crack, Meat Grinder, Classic Crack, the 5.8 at Barney's Rubble, Ski Tracks Crack, Pearly Gates (several cracks here),Poison Ivy Crack, Cocaine Crack, the crack on the Cube (Clamshell Cave), R & D route (mixed bag, but worthwhile), Bo Derick, Givler's Crack, Saber, the 5.8 on Jello Tower, Angel Crack, Canary (all on Castle Rock).
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I don't mean to keep pointing out your vintage, just that in the 20 years I've been climbing I've seen dramatic changes in glaciation and climbing seasons in the Cascades, and I know you've been around longer than I have.
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What route? What month? How many people do you want to accomodate?
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#2 Black Diamond angle piton high on the North Face bowl. That was 12 years ago, might be rusty.
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Deydrated sweet potatoes would be awesome. Reconstituted sweet potatoes with butter and brown sugar would be a great meal.
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If anyone hasn't seen it yet, check out the Micro (not Mini) Traxion for this job. It's the total shizz!
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Wow! Half the weight at 3 oz. In addition to the crevasse kit, it could be used to haul packs on the hard pitches. Nice find!
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Ray Jardine's book about long distance hiking had an eye opening chapter on nutrition. According to my memory, instant potatoes retained the most nutrients of the instant starches/carbohydrates.
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I used a Marmot Precip to very good effect on Denali and other Alaska Range mountains as well as Rainier in winter. I currently have an even lighter shell (Montbel Versalite, 10 oz) and would use it as my hardshell on Denali if it wasn't such a slim fit.
Arc'Teryx hard shells cost what, $400? Precips can be picked up for about $65 on Sierra Trading Post. Do the Arc'Teryx jackets keep you 6 times drier than Precips? Keep the wind off 6 times better?
As far as softshells, I dislike stretch woven softshell jackets preferring instead a lightly insulated windshirt. e.g Marmot DriClime. I find they have a wider comfort range and the smooth nylon shell layers better under other jackets.
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Have you thought about asking Shasta Mountain Guides if any of their guides need roomates or have a room to rent? Just a thought.
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Not a single igloo, huh?
Maybe I didn't see any because they were the same color as the snow
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Not to mention you were underage beerpong playing. Add that to the list of charges.
Another thought regarding skill/weapons etc, a lot of the time it doesn't come down to what someone can do, its what they are willing to do. Some folks have a complete disregard for legal/moral consequences and that is partially what makes them very dangerous.
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With the assumption of a frictionless system and a force of one unit on the pulling end, the ropeman in the drop c setup would be experiencing 2 unit of force pulling onto the anchor. With a normal z-c setup, the anchor pulley would feel a unit force of 4. When you think about the friction that gets involved with twice the unit of force pulling on it, you can see that the drop c setup makes the ropeman less of a concern than in the zc setup.
And that is why we have mathematicians.
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I was initially skeptical, but it occurred to me that folks use biners as pulleys, so why not the ropeman.
Well, I'm sure it would work, but pulleys are more efficient than carabiners and I would bet the ropeman as well. Assuming a two person system as per the link, I think hauling efficiency would be key. With more hands to pull that becomes less important.
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No experience, but I can't imagine that it would be very efficent as the rope would have to run over the cam, not a pulley, unless there is some kind of modification. A Petzl Minitraxion would be ideal as the primary pulley IMNSHO.
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And about tents - the pros build igloos. Again, listen to & watch the climbing rangers. Igloos are warmer than tents, do not disintegrate in storms, and are raven-proof food caches. Tents on those big glaciers are for cheechakos.
I did not see a single igloo on the West Butt. The guide services all used tents (Trango 2 almost exclusively), and the rangers (Meg Perdue et. al.) used tents as well. I'm not denying igloos are great, just never saw one.
Icicle Crack Circuit
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted · Edited by DPS
I've done this link up a few times, and what I like about it is the remarkable variety of climbing offered in 12 -13 pitches. Some straight forward cracks, some dihedrals, some delicate face climbing, some big chicken head pulling. Also, I have climbed Outer Space 6 times and never climbed it exactly the same way. Several start variations, a couple of different cracks below the 5.9 hand traverse, a couple of options off Library Ledge.