DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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You will want to carry two - three liters on the hike from the parking lot to the Lunch Counter, as well as on summit day. You will need to drink another three or four liters at camp and another in the morning at breakfast.
If it isn't entirely obvious, bring a stove to melt water from snow. Carrying enough water for a two day climb is simply not feasible.
The Lunch Counter is the most popular camp site for the South Spur. I would bring a lightweight, hooded Primaloft belay jacket and warm gloves. Might not need it, but in bad weather you may need it. 20 degrees is probably the coldest you can realistically expect on the summit, but that would be unusually cold for July.
One thing I have noticed is due to Mt Adam's proximity to the Columbia River Gorge and Hood River (world famous kite and sail boarding), the summit is unusually windy relative to other stratovolcanoes in the PNW, making it seem colder than it is.
Relative to Mt Hood, Mt Baker, or Mt Rainier, South Spur on Mt Adams is the least technical. If this is your first big snow and ice climb, or if you have no waterfall climbing experience it will seem more technical than it really is. I would definitely bring an ice axe and crampons and have practice in using them. The snow may have melted out by then, but this is a rather big snow year and I wouldn't count on it.
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Panasonic Lumix is a nice size, easy to use, has some manual controls (I think) and takes good photos.
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never mind
in Spray
Once upon a time, at a gear shop far away, Layton refused to sell a woman a pair of climbing shoes that she was going to use for walking around in. True story!!Saw a hipter walking around Fremont wearing Royal Robbins rock climbing boots. I'm guessing he bought them at Second Bounce.
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never mind
in Spray
I'm not sure running shoes or gym shoes would polish the rock significantly more than rock shoes.
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As much as I love endurance fests, I also love camping if I have the time.
When I was younger I had a woody for speed. Looking back it is the bivis that are often very memorable.
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For accuracy's sake, Roboboy and I climbed the Whitehorse Glacier CTC in 11 1/2 hours.
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Thanks I will out there for the whole month of June, and I'm sure the weather will be great.
If you chase the weather this will be true. The weather on the west side has rougly a 50/50 chance of being nice any given time in June, but you can always drive east of the crest (Leavenworth, Mazama, Vantage) and usually find good weather.
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Exit 32/38 have a lot of sport climbing, although I'm not sure I would characterize it as quality.
Then you haven't found the great lines yet.
Probably more like I'm not strong enough to climb the great lines yet.
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I can't believe people do this in a day,
The Silver Fox AKA Roboboy and I booted this CTC in 12 or 14 hours. The key for us was nailing the approach. I have heard horror stories about getting lost in dripping, mossy cliff, devel's club, and slide alder. We managed to find what may be the most reasonable approach with some luck and occasional flagging.
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Exit 32/38 have a lot of sport climbing, although I'm not sure I would characterize it as quality. Gene's suggestions for bolted routes at Leavenworth are good. Condormorphine Addiction is a long (6 pitch?) 5.10 that is very popular. Aren't there some sport climbs in Mazama? Fun Rock, Serendipity Arete and Goats Wall?
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Why are folks unwilling to check climbing gear?
Because they friggin lose bags! If I fly to LV for 3 days and my bag gets lost, I guess your climbing trip will turn into drinking and gambling trip pretty fast! Cost is another thing, but most of trips people book a flight are a week or under and if the bag gets lost your trip will turn to shit fast.
Fair enough, but it seems like an equal gamble that the TSA folks will confiscate or at least make you check the gear anyway.
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It may be that my memory is clouded by the hospital herion I have been taking, but as I recall the upshot was that Jens threw away the rope. Could have been he didn't have time to go back and check the rope or whatever, but that is my recollection. Perhaps Jens (K) can post up and clear up any confusion.
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shouldn't have any problems with a rack of draws and a rope,
It may have been Jens who tried to carry on a rope and TSA made him trow it away because it could be used as a restraint I suppose.
Why are folks unwilling to check climbing gear? Fear of theft? My guess is baggage thievs are looks for high value items like cameras, jewerly, and electronics. But what do I know?
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The only thing TSA is consistent about is being inconsistent. I have never chanced it and had no problem stowing in my checked baggage.
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Some dude soloed the North Face in late June:http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=480466
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It is kind of a lot of rope for just glacier travel, but you can use it for rock climbing and ice climbing too, so there you go.
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My frist bladder broke the first time I used it. Years later I bought another one w/out a hose and it has worked without failure for years.
I dislike the hose because it adds another failure point (breakage, freezing, leakage) and adds weight. I use one 1-liter bladder for weight savings and one Nalgene for foolproofness and to use as a mug, furhter reducing weight because it obviates the need for a separate mug.
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I like a combination of salty and sweet like Pay Day bars.
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QUESTION: What rope do you use for 3 people on Rainier/Baker?
Edelweiss 8.5mm X 50m Sharp Everdry.
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DPS, since you've tried this method, do you always tie butterfly knots, or no? I've heard about this technique only from this forum. It seems good for stopping a fall into a crevasse, but otherwise, it sounds like 30m is totally sufficient for a rope without butterfly knots.
No, not always. In two man rope teams on big glaciers (Alaska) is the only time I've used it. I personally don't think its necessary with three or more man rope teams (as long as everyone knows what they are doing).
I've read a number of folks advocating using a 30 meter twin rope, but my guess is these folks have never had to do a crevasse rescue. Use too skinny a rope and you waste all your rescue efforts on strectchhing the rope, not to mention a thicker rope is easier for prusiks to 'grab'. I personally think 30 meters is too short for a big glacier (Mt Baker, Mt Rainier, AK). The difference between an 50 m rope and an 30 meter rope is only about 13 onces (in 8mm diameter). Totally worth it for the extra flexibility and safety it provides IMNSHO. Not to mention, buy its mate and you have a great alpine/ice climbing set up.
Using a 30 meter rope (about 100 feet) allows you have have 50 feet between partners and about 25 feet in coils. (Knots take up rope, so this is a rough generalization). If you have a text book fall and your partner is able to prusik out, no big deal. But if the rope is entrenched and you have to drop a spare line in, you are S.O.L., not to mention hauling out your parnter's pack and skis to help facilitate the rescue.
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wow, even after unweighting it? Crazy!
I has something similar happen once.
Me too! It was the craziest thing, like the crack just ate the rope! You should've been there. Oh wait, you were.
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We actually could not retrieve the rope, we had to cut it.
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In the one time that I used this technique and my partner went into a crevasse, the knot jammed so deep in the slot that it would have been impossible to prusik that rope. A second rope was employed, so one needs to have enough coils to drop into the climber in the hole.
Black Diamond Viper Tools - $200
in The Yard Sale
Posted
These are Vipers, not Cobras.