DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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The character of this route changes from year to year. When I did it a couple of years ago, there were no threatening seracs. There were ~2 pitches of beautiful, steep alpine ice. The only thing that came down were the dinner plates my partner and I knocked loose.I would have called it AI 3.
A day trip is very feasible, we did it car to car in 12 hours at a leisurely pace.
One can avoid crossing beneath the Coleman Headwall by following the hikers trail to the hikers veiwpoint overlooking the Rosevelt Glacier seracs, then hiking straight uphill to the North Ridge. There are some nice bivi sites on dirt.
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 04-12-2001).]
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Wouldn't pants made of snow be cold in the winter and simply melt in the summer?
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Mister Rodgers,
I have used Trango cams along side Camalots for a number of years. For the price they are a great deal. Nice trigger action, good bite, nice doubled slings. Can't really think of any negatives.
Dan
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With an offer like that you are bound to be inundated with offers from many beautiful, talented and intelligent women climbers.
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I think Fred Beckey already uses such a system. For example, he rates the South Face of the Tooth as 4th class (in older editions)because it is unexposed yet the moves are 5.4ish.
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I found a tick in my daughter's hair at Castle Rock, Leavenworth. Ever since she has called the place 'Tickworth'.
I did have one embedded in my belly. It was running around in circles, around its own head which was in my skin, almost like it was afraid. I think it was just a nervous tick.
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Rob May and Andreas Schmidt have done this route. You may be able to get a hold of Andreas through his work at Cascade Designs
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Tim,
Were you with Nick?
Dan
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Hey good question. BTW, the good folks at MSR will turn your old stove into a shaker jet model for really cheap!
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Two speeds, off and high.
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My 2 cents worth:
The low snow fall will likely cause the carbon to 'open up' earlier than usual, but the time frame you mention should not be a problem. I did it mid July ('95?) and had fantastic conditions and no real problems crossing the Carbon.
At a modest pace, my partner and I took 12 hours from trail head to Thumb Rock.(30 hours car to car, but we slept in quite late).
In mid July, we found one pitch of ice right above Thumb Rock, and a 300-400 feet right beneath Liberty Cap. The rest was snow. The worst part was the lower ridge which had HEAVY rockfall, due to the lack of snow cover and the heat of the day when we climbed it.
If you want beta on Hunter let me know.
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I would recommend the MSR XKG. This stove is standard on Alaskan expeditions, they boil fast, are dirt tough and field maintainable.
Altitude is not an issue.
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Out of 10 rock shoe resoles I have had done by Dave Page, none have delaminated. All have been good to excellent, IMHO. My buddy had a pair resoled that delaminated, but the shoes were very worn.
I had a pair of hiking boots resoled that delaminated completely after a year. (The orginal sole delaminated completely, thus the need for the resole.)
I think it dependes partly on the condition of the shoe/boot and the skill of the person doing the resole. Dave has a number of elves working for him, some with more experience than others.
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Mike,
My partner and his girlfriend did this route last weekend. He reported fine climbing conditions, similar to when we did it earlier this winter. In other words, expect good ice and snow. Have at it!
Dan
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Suck it up and hike your ass up the road. Why, when I was your age I hiked it 6 times before I finally snagged Triple C. All I had to get me warm was a baked potato, and that was my lunch...
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The route is called Condormorphine. Leland did the route with Ron Cottman (used to work at second bounce) Leland gave me the topo when I last ran into him. I lost it though. Count on excellent bolt placements and generally safe climbing. Leland is nothing if not meticulus.
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I was there a week and half ago. The face was running with water and the ice was falling.
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Great advice, thanks! I change shoes frequently, generally replacing a pair after 300 miles or so. (My current pair are only a couple of weeks old) I used to run exclusively on trails, up to 70 miles a week with no problem. I am putting in very modest milage on pavement (<30 miles a week) and this is where the problem is from. I do my long runs (3+ hours) on trails with no pain.
I have cut back the road miles during the week, alternating with weights and stair master, but when the sun is shining, it is hard to be inside.
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Does anyone have some tips for treating/rehabing shin splints? Maybe some strengthening exercises?
Also, does anyone know a good physical therapist? (Female please, with the number of injuries I seem to get, I need to marry one.)
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Some advice for climbing Rainier:
Drink as much water as you can. Start tanking 2-3 days before hand. Drink a liter on the drive to Rainier, carry two liters and drink them on the approach, drink 2-4 more liters that night.
Be as fit as you possibly can. See the above posts.
Go as light as you possibly can. I assume group gear such as ropes, pickets, stoves etc will be provided at high camp. If so, your pack should weigh less than 20 pounds, if not you are doing it wrong.
Have fun. After all, climbing is a means for personal growth.
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orographic precipitation...same story as North Bend.
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I work in pioneer squared. The building that houses the popular club 'Fenix Underground' sustained MAJOR damage, the roof and a wall collapsed. Many building have brick facade that has peeled off. This definitely makes it on my top 10 scary things list, well below peeling off a giant flake on the Girth Pillar.
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I have ran into Twight 3 times. Everytime he was very sweet. He even signed a shirt for my daughter. In Alaska last spring he brought a new stove back from Talkeetna for a friend of ours.
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Thanks for the report. My partner and I tried N Face of Index on Friday, also out. The face was running with water and ice was crashing down. I think the ice season is over.
Clip up on Concord Tower
in Climber's Board
Posted
Are you sure you don't mean South Early Winter Spire?