DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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Pope,
I have a 50 cm North Wall hammer that I use with my axe for moderate alpine snow/ice routes. The axe came with a positive clearance pick, the hammer a negative. Pretty quickly I figured out that the positive clearance pick was superior in every regard and modified the hammer's pick accordingly. If I was in the market for a new axe, I would definitely buy the Grivel Air Racing Tech from Barrabes.
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Phil,
I was on Ptarmigan Ridge last August. The upper rock bands were a shooting gallery. Early season is definitely safer.
Dan
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Has anybody been up the Mowich Lake road recently? The Nat'l Park Service web site says the road is gated at Paul Peak. Is this information current? Has the road melted out enough to justify taking mountain bikes to ride the road to the trailhead?
Thanks
Dan
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Yes, I was the old fat climber being hauled up the young fit climber.
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I did Outer Space and Orbit on Sunday (5/6). Orbit was completely dry. White slabs looked dry from my vantage point.
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Colin,
I know that Ed Viestures and his partner Veikka Gustaphson uses a down quilt draped over the both of them. As Ed says 'we spoon, but no forking'.
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You bet.
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I too, am from Tacoma. BTW, I was chatting with Colin the other day about you.
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Aidian,
I would suggest the Emmons. Plenty of adventure for your first time up.
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I think I have met this Scott fellow and his chick Angela. They were aiding City Park to set a toprope on Godzilla because they were not strong enough to lead it. As they were aiding City Park, they yelled down that they had dibs on Godzilla. (Not fair in my book). Meanwhile we had to wait for them to aid and clean City Park, set a rope on Godzillia and give all three of the group a couple of burns on Godzilla.
Angella, the '5.11 climber' could not get off the ground on it. (He did say she was a 5.11 climber, not a 5.9 climber)
They entire time these jokers were talking loudly about all the routes in Yosemite they had done. This incident stands out in my mind because I have never before or since met anyone who had 'claimed' a popular route while still in the middle of climbing another one. This egotistical SOB deserves all the shit he has coming to him.
Anglea was a real piece of work too.
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 04-30-2001).]
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 04-30-2001).]
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road was open, rock was mostly dry. It rained on us, though.
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I went up to Static Point for the first time to do Online. At the point where the trail meets the first slab, a large tree with a flat root ball lay across the trail. As I climbed over it I noticed a half dozen faded rappel slings tied around the trunk. I pondered (only for a minute) why folks would put rappel slings on a downed tree that was on the trail. (My thought process is a little slow ever since taking a rock to the head. Wear your helmets kids.)
Then I looked up and saw the obvious, root ball shaped rock scar, 100' up the slab where the tree once grew. Apparently the former rappel anchor had slid down the slab, hopefully under its own weight and not from some hapless climber. My partner cut off the slings to dispose of properly.
Has anyone else seen this tree? Did this tree fall down this winter? I find this a little scary and will test trees growing out of slabs from now on.
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veggiebelay,
You are wrong. The most expensive rescue in DNP was for a missing hiker. She was found drowned in the river. That one search and rescue mission cost more than all of the mountain rescues that season combined.
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The Green Dragon is a more direct route and features much more interesting aid climbing than Town Crier. The route goes entirely clean (the bolt ladder not withstanding). Bring cam hooks although I heard some misguided soul added copper heads to a previously clean pitch.
Oh yeah, I found medium to large size hooks to be really useful. Allowed me to avoid some free climbing on the second to last pitch.
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 04-20-2001).]
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Hey, I have the perfect solution to the bolting controversy. Anytime someone wants to bolt a line we will let Machosaurus have a crack at it first with his handfull of nuts. If he climbs it he can name it something clever like Testicular Hypertrophy Disorder, and it will stand for all time as a testament to boldness. If he fails the bolters can have their way with the rock.
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Would you listen to yourselves? Those of you who advocate no bolts whatsoever are either very naive or shamefully boasting.
It is like some kind of macho stance, swaggering around boasting who has the purest ethics. I would wager that W is one of the harder climbers you will be likely to meet. His balanced perspective is much more realistic and constructive than those of you who claim bolts are roads and such nonsense. Go try to climb El Cap and skip all of those awful bolts and we'll see how far off the ground you get. Have you done Town Crier? Did you skip the bolts and hook entire pitches?
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I love my Scarpas for Volcanos, Alaskan trips, waterfall climbing and mixed climbing. And now they are cheaper, <$300.00.
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erik,
The principle person responsible for putting up these routes does not have access to a computer. I know the other fellow checks out this web site occasionally.
If I run into either or them, I will let them know about the buzz created by these routes.
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It is not a rumor. The route on the SE Face of S Early Winter Spire is more half done. No cracks on the entire route.
Why is making the comparison to the E Buttress a lame argument? BTW, the Huber brothers have put up exactly the same types of routes, in the same style, as those that you are decrying-huge bolt protected routes in the high mountains.
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mneagle,
You were so disturbed by the bolts and the 2x4 that you refused to clip them, right?
I am friends with the fellows who did the route on Condor Buttress and I know for a fact that they are putting in a route on the east face of South Early Winter Spire. I have heard neither of them mention Concorde Tower.
Blight, have you climbed the Condormorphine route? If not, perhaps you should not post your opinions about a route you are not actually familar with.
BTW, the fellow that is responsible for the routes mentioned above is also responsible for many of the routes at Exit 38, Little Si and Vantage. If you have climbed there you have likely silently praised the thoughtful positioning of the bolts, the well cleaned rock and the safe climbing experience. He spends all his free time and money nstalling safe routes that have been enjoyed by many, many people with no personal gain.
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Does it matter that only part of the route is bolt protected? East Buttress direct has a couple of bolt protected pitches. Is that a problem? Or are only routes that are bolt protected from top to bottom the bee in your bonnet? I don't see the problem. Bolt protected climbs have been at the Pass for a very long time, even if only a couple of pitches are bolted. From what I have seen, bolts are the only way to reasonably protect some pitches of established routes (aside from duct taped hooks. If the entire route is devoid of cracks, why the problem with the bolts? I don't see this as a huge departure from the way things have always been.
Perhaps bolts are a slippery slope? If any bolts are allowed what is to keep Liberty Crack from being completely bolted?
If the bolts are on a new climb and not one that previously existed, no one's climbing experience is really being altered, to my way of thinking.
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 04-12-2001).]
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Tooth and Claw on Lexington is a bolt protected route. No one has complained yet about 'clip ups' at Washington Pass.
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I second AJ's post on Scholler fabrics. I wore a pair of Black Diamond Talus Pants on Mt Hunter as my only shells. Worked GREAT, even in a storm that wrecked my tent.
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Joe,
How do you know the mountain does not want you to climb it? Have you asked? Does the mountain just not want you to climb it or me as well?
Are you sure the mountain permits one to climb it? I have always obtained permits from the ranger station. I would have to say the rangers permit one to climb the mountain.
Snowpack
in Climber's Board
Posted
Beck,
Thanks for the report. I loved Mellow Gold, your second album, not so much.