DPS
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I read somewhere the strength rating of knots expressed as a percentage of the unknotted rope's strength. I believe a double fisherman's knot was something like 75%-80%. Hope that helps.
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I might even show up for this one, but where is the Swiss?
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Will,
The toilet at the lower saddle was one I mentioned to Aidan as well.
I vote for the Boulder Camp Privi in the Bugaboos.
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The Columbia Gorge outside of Portland frezes up some years. Lillooet, in B.C., is probably the closest, reliable destination. It is perhaps a 7-8 hour drive from Portland.
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Take up free soloing, then try leading on gear. You will feel much safer.
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Jens,
You are right about NE Buttress of J Berg in winter, the trees make for nice rap anchors. That said, we did quite a few raps off of bollards and V threads when we descended the route. Reminded me of a big version (and slightly harder) of Synchronicity in Lillooet.
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I found the route to be dirty and indistinct, loose in places with uninspiring pro. Seemed like an awful long hike in to do a dirty version of the Tooth. I would suggest the Tooth, South Face or Ingal's Peak, South Face. Route finding is straight forward with plenty of opportunities for protection. Both are described in Selected Climbs, Vol I.
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Sport climbing and bolts have their place. Where else do you take your girlfriend climbing for the first time?
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 10-04-2001).]
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I would add to that Barney's Rubble, Roto Wall, Alphabet Rock (Z-Crack Rock).
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I agree with Retro, ratings are always subjective. That said, I was pleased to find I am climbing harder than before (according to Smoot's ratings).
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We descended the Fisher Chimneys. Where did you here the glacier and Winnie's Slide was in poor shape? I have done the FC as late as October and while icy, proved to have no real problems.
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I concur, the approach is not that bad. Took us 3 1/2 hours with minimal bush wacking.
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I had a similar experience when a friend and I went in to return a very expensive pair of gloves he had purchased. The seams had jsut fallen apart after minimal use. The dork behind the counter tried to tell us the damage was normal wear and tear. The kicker is there was an identical pair of gloves on the counter that had also fallen apart at the seams. We convinced him to exchange the gloves. I will never buy any OR product.
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"I stand up next to the mountain and I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
Jimmi Hendrix
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Cave-man,
What I was suggesting is that perhaps the person who took it assumed it was left as a rappel anchor and abandoned. In this case a note describing the date it was left and when it will be retrieved would avoid any confusion. This system works in Alaska for caches. Of course, if the person responsible is set on getting booty, then a note would do no good.
I actually found two new ropes on Snow Creek wall with a note explaining they were abandoned during a hasty retreat in a storm and if they could be returned it would be appreciated.
Dan
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Maybe the rangers removed it considering it a fixed anchor? Perhaps someone thought it abandoned? Maybe affixing a note would insure it stays put?
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I agree with Erik. Rigid crampons are a pain on anything other than waterfalls.
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Second Ascent in Ballard is the best place I have found. It is on Ballard Avenue next to the Tractor Tavern. They were called Second Bounce before they moved. Great selection, good guys that own it and very fair prices.
[This message has been edited by danielpatricksmith (edited 08-21-2001).]
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I was there a month or so ago, the route was in fine shape. I have done this route as late as October. While Winnie's slide gets quite icy, the crevasses never seem to present too great of route finding troubles.
Maybe bring a picket and screw each for the glacier crossing, I have never found need for rock gear in the Chimneys themselves or on the summit pyramid. I recommend the left hand ridge of the pyramid, it is enjoyable 3rd class scrambling, much nicer than the loose gulley that most parties take.
I would also recommend making the extra effort and carrying bivi gear (if you are doing a two day trip)to the top of the Chimneys. There are some lovely camp sites with great views.
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I had the exact same experience. They gave me new everything, pump, windscreen, shaker jet. Made the thing look brand new.
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Descended the Fisher Chimneys two weeks ago after doing the North Face. Route is in fine shape and should be so for some time.
North Ridge of Baker may be problematic to approach by Septemeber.
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New Things That I Like:
MSR Pocket Rocket Stove
Second Ascent
Lithium Batteries
Grivel Racing Air Tech Ice Axe
Black Diamond Betamid Tent
Old Things That I Still Like:
Patagonia Talus Pants
Western Mountaineering Apache Sleeping Bag
McHale SARC Pack
Leeper Cam Hooks
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Check out this topo: http://www.naclassics.com/climbs/sohowser/topo.gif
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I bought a pair of Black Diamond Shrikes last season and I have been somewhat disappointed in their performance. My biggest beef is the adze and head configuration. The adze is too small and the head is just plain unconfortable to carry 'cane' style. Plus the hooking teeth shred my gloves. Also, the weight is not centered in the head so they do not swing as well on waterfalls. I add head weights which helps a lot. Black Diamond picks do not seem to be as durable as Charlet Moser, either.
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