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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

  1. Looks like my plans for the weekend fell through. I am looking for a climbing partner for this Saturday (May 10) for alpine. I am thinking of either the North Buttress Couloir of Colchuck or NE Couloir on Dragontail. I would like to be at the trailhead by 6:00 am requiring a 4:00 AM departure from Issaquah. I can drive from Issaquah and bring the rope/ rack / apres climb beer. Newbies and hardmen are both welcome. I fall somewhere in between.

     

    If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Dan

  2. If the symptoms are from the neck up (stuffy, dripping nose, head cold, etc) then it is ok to train. If the symptoms are from the neck down (lung congestion, body aches, fever, etc) then it is best to lay off.

     

    Once I did not follow this adage and ran when I had chest congestion and ended up giving myself pneumonia which put me down for a much longer time than if I had just laid off for a couple of days.

  3. I bring a tag line or double ropes only if I plan on rappeling a large route.

     

    The utility of a tag line or double ropes are realized on big, steep, technical descents. I once descended this route in Alaska making 22 60 meter, double rope rappels. If we had only one rope we would have had to make at least 44 rappels, using twice as much gear for anchors and taking much more time.

  4. I really like my Serratus Genie but would love it if it were made of more durable fabric (sail cloth!) and had two compression straps on the sides to hold pickets, skis, etc. I also added bungee cord to hold my crampons.

  5. I took some friends up Rainier a few years ago. They were avid sailors and had stuff sacks made from sail cloth and they gave me one. I use it to carry pitons and ice screws. Even though some of my screws are missing caps, the teeth have never cut the stuff sack. That material is super tough and light. I would buy a pack made out of it.

  6. An approach for Kaleetan is outlined in Martin Vokels ski touring guide book. Basically you head up towards great scott bowl. Then go west just before hemlock peak and countour northish around the east face of Bryant on a shelf above the mixed climbs until able to go up a short couloir taking you to a bench. From the bench find a small pass, drop down the pass into Denny Creek drainage. From there I don't know 'cause that is as far as we got.

  7. We used skis only the first two days - up to 11,000 ft. After that we switched to crampons. We picked up our skis on the way out and ended up putting them on the sled. Skiing with a pack, a sled, in mountaineering boots is fairly ridiculous. Not to mention it cost an extra 50 bucks to get the skiis on the plane. If I were to go back I would definitely bring plastic snowshoes.

  8. When I was a young, single parent and in school I was an occaisonal client of the local food bank. Now I make sure that I include NW Harvest as one of the charities I support every year through my workplace giving program. I can't think of a more effective charitable organization.

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