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DPS

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Posts posted by DPS

    Spray Park, Mt. Rainier?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    I have skied into Spray Park a couple of times in late spring and recall some nice rolling hills and glades, but that was a few years ago and I don't recall how bad the terrain would be for avalanches. Can anyone comment? Would it be a death trap in high avalanche conditions or relatively safe.

    Go to Liberty Ridge

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    I did Liberty Ridge July 15-16 1996. Conditions were excellent for climbing, but rock fall on the ridge below Thumb Rock was copious and constant. We also had some shenanigans crossing the Carbon as it was melted out quite a bit. I did it as a two person team which is fine if you know how to extract your partner from a crevasse all by your lonesome.

    MSR customer service

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    On my lunch break I took my old MSR XGK stove with a broken pump to MSR to be cleaned and have the pump fixed. Dude behind the counter hands me a new stove and pump and charges me the rate for just cleaning the stove ($20.00). Can't beat that deal with a stick.

    chair peak, north face winter

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Three parties climbed the NE Buttress on Sunday. Lots of ice, conditions generally very good. One party climbed the first pitch on the left via a pure ice pitch. The "S" shaped gulley was mostly snow with a couple of water ice steps. The second pitch is easy snow climbing. The third pitch that climbs the top of the east face to the short water fall was mostly very good ice with excellent screw placements. The last pitch was easy snow with a couple of water ice blobs that took good screw placements. The down climb of the gulley to the col was a bit bony, we did one rappel. The traditional winter anchors at the col were out of reach so we slung a block poking out of the snow and made a 60 meter rappel which was just long enough.

    Mixup: NE Couloir

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I did Mixup this time of year a couple of years ago via a couloir on the NW aspect that lead to the west ridge. We descended via Gun Sight Notch and traveresed back west under the North Face. I don't recall seeing a couloir on the NE aspect.

    chair peak, north face winter

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Some things I have learned from 12 winter ascents of Chair Peak:

     

    -Don't go if avalanche conditions are bad.

     

    -The NE Buttress is often in decent shape when the North Face isn't

     

    -Bring a little of everything in terms of a rack (a few screws, pins, nuts, cams and a couple of pickets)

     

    -There are two possible gulleys that lead to the col with the fixed rappel anchor. The gulley just below the summit pyramid is a little harder to down climb than the gulley that is farther NE.

     

    -Get an early start to beat the crowds and avoid descending in the dark.

    School me on soloing Rainier.........

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Am I mistaken to think the crevases would mostly be filled with sow and the mountian will be solid due to lots of snow and consant freezing?

    Yes, you are mistaken. During the winter the prevailing winds are from the south, which actually scour the south side (the most accessible side in winter) leaving very thin, fragile snow bridges. Also, sastrugi (sp?) snow forms effectively hiding evidence of crevasses making it very difficult to tell where the crevasses are.

    Winter Route on Hood?

    in Oregon Cascades

    Posted

    my recommendatino to you is the reid headwall - for the money and effort, its the most enjoyable and coolest route on the mountain

     

    I agree with Ivan, of the half dozen routes on Hood that I have done, Reid Headwall stands out in my mind as being one of the best.

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