Matt

I've got the day off. Save me from climbing at Vertical World. Index, Little Si, solo the Tooth, whatever. I've got a rack and a car. I live in Seattle. I'll check PMs.

You're value as a human being: in NYC, it's all about how much money you make. in LA, it's how beautiful you are (or your girlfriend) in Washington DC, your place on the food chain is determined by your proximity to power. In DC something like 1 in 45 people are lawyers. Highest percentage in the country. Horrible weather. muggy/humid in summer. Not enough snow to ski, but when it does snow the whole city shuts down. Foreign diplomats get hazard pay when posted to Washington DC. Good luck. I love the metro in DC. I love the Mall, especially the Museum of Natural History.

Sain yavj irsen uu? Mongol oos saikhan bain aa. Chinii zorag saikhan bain. Bi notag aa sanaj bain aa. Chi Mongol khel sorj bain uu? Jaakhan metnee? Khervee chi nadtai mongoloor yelmaar baival, bolon oo. Nadat PM yavoolarai! Mongol khodoo yustoi saikhan yum be!

I've been having an affair with Misery for quite a while now, how did you know? Planning on climbing my couch this weekend. I'm prepared for a late night bivy with the dog, cheap beer, and too much bad tv. But seriously, there must be someplace that's dry.

Anyone know if this is still true? I plan on calling the ranger station, but if you've seen it first hand that would be great. Planning on Goode this coming weekend. I've got a partner, but if there are two who would like to join us and share the weight of a stove that would be great. Especially if I know you and have climbed with you before. Beta?

I climbed Cynical pinnacle a few summers ago and agree it is one of the best cracks out there. I found there is also great fly fishing in the South Platte. A good friend of mine lives in Divide, CO and his life really makes me think about why I'm living in the rat race of Seattle. But then I love the city. RE the approach, I don't even remember it-- I'm guessing less than an hour and a little sandy?!? WTF. it was nothing compared to say hiking up the Snow Creek Trail or up to Burgandy col or something like that. Anyway, cool climb!

Have fun! I lived in Mongolia for 3 years when I was in the Peace Corps. Great place. I hope you're taking the train from Beijing! Sain yavarei! (Have a nice trip!)

Looking for a partner for monday. Rock is good, especially alpine. The usual suspects should give me a shout. I've never done the W Ridge of Stuart but I've done the N ridge so I know the walk off down the evil cascadian. Might be fun. Could also drive up to WA pass sunday night and do some alpine craggin. Burgandy? Lexington? If you've got any ideas send them my way. Done a great route lately? Lemme know.

I can't help you with your plaque question, but I thought I'd say you have a nice TR. Mattp and I soloed the tooth last sunday as a sunday afternoon outing and we were scoping the summit for bivy spots thinking it could be a nice place to chill. Re soloing: I have soloed alone and with others and I enjoy both. It's nice to really enjoy it all with someone else without the complications of gear, etc. Of course a solo should by it's very nature be solo, sometimes. BTW, it IS worth it to write a TR on the tooth and totally UNNECESSARY for others to mock it, berate it or otherwise go on about how easy it is to climb. Nice climb!

Got one. Thanks.

I've got chores to do, but would like to get in a quicky climb today: run up the tooth either solo or if your not comfortable w/ that a rope is fine, trail run, something in the mountains. Not interested in sport climbing crowds at 32/38. Would prefer cardio as I'm going climb in the icicle tomorrow. Let me know if you have a better idea. PM me, I don't like to post my phone number. I have car, gear, etc., live in Central District. I'm thinking maybe meet up between 1200 and 1300?

When I climbed the N Ridge Dr Jay and I slept on the ledge at the top of pitch 9, great place to sleep. Alpine bivies that are comfy really make the trip special! We had fairly small packs, though we did include sleeping bags. Well worth it. Do the gendarme or you'll want to go back and do it again. I'll take solid 5.9 over sketchy 5.7 anyday! Probably my favorite climb in the cascades. I'd be up for doing it again. If anyone's interested please shoot me a PM.

Nice climb!

Rope gun alert! Wish I could hit you up for some rope gunning Timmy, but it's the 4th and I'll be fightin' fires! If you go up to Chianti think about camping up at the col a knocking off a few of the other towers too! Lots of cool looking rock up there!

Scooters are like fat chicks-- fun to ride but you don't want your friends to catch you on one.

gnibmilc-- you love that hut girl story. Now she's really gonna be pissed that you put her picture on cc.com and set a horde of horny northwesterners after her. How's your new pet mouse? Still running around the Eurovan?

TimL-- We looked for your #4 cam but it was gone. Bummer! You and I will have to meet up for some climbing this summer. PM me your summer tick list and I'm sure something will match. I just spoke to Chris-- he's on his way back up to the pass. Lexington is next!

Great climb gnibmilc! Next time we'll have to keep the snafflehounds out of the Eurovan!

I was in Paris 6 months ago and the pollution was horrible-- much worse than any American city. The problem is they don't have catalytic converters in their cars. Stupid French. Very little recycling done too. I was surprised. I knew Fairweather couldn't reisist this thread. He loves the Audi A4.

I thought the Bovine Roofs pitch was definitely the best way to go. I followed it one weekend and loved it so much I took another friend back so I could lead it! It looks much harder than it is!

Thanks for all your hard work Mattp! Let's go climbing together this summer! I believe the best way to preserve the wilderness is to allow people to see it. They will appreciate it and want to protect it only if they experience it first hand. I am a climber so of course I want to climb new routes, but the most important thing is the preservation of all that is green and wild in our state.

Another great taco bus is on Renton Ave S and 76th in Skyway. I bet all you yuppies up in Freelard don't even know where Skyway is!

Do not rap off just a sling (rope through sling w/ no biner) when using two ropes of unequal diameter. As you rappel, the ropes will stretch at different rates which will cause them to equalize at the anchor and there will be movement where the rope touches the sling. This will create more heat and friction than if you were rappeling with two ropes of equal diameter. For the gumbie climber--- yes, it is okay to rap of a sling without a rap ring. Keep in mind when you do this it is more dangerous than when using a piece of hardwear. My suggestion is if you're going to rap off just a sling and you don't want to leave any of your gear, first back up the rap slings with your own gear-- slings, biners, gear, whatever-- then let the fatter person in your climbing party rap first. If the slings hold, then you can take all your gear and rap with confidence on the sling. Read Accidents in North American Mountaineering and you will be amazed how many occur while rappelling/descending. Stay safe.

I want to get out tomorrow, either Leavenworth, Index or Darrington. Outerspace might be fun. I've done it before, hopefully you have too. gnibmilc? Matt Perkin's new route on Blueberry Hill might be fun. If you've already done Dreamer and some of the other quality Darrington routes like me we could give it a try. If you haven't, I'd rather do something easier like Dreamer or Silent Running. If it's Index I might be lazy. Whatever will do. Please PM me. I'll call tonight.

I bring a SAM splint often but not always b/c if my arm is broken that's what I want--- much more comfy than an adjusted sleeping pad w/ duct tape. I also bring benadryl to treat anaphylaxis. It doesn't provide the same immediate relief that an epipen will (I have an epipen in my car though I myself am not allergic to bees), but benadryl will do something. Sometimes it's all that's needed, like in the case of someone with a peanut allergy accidentally eating a mouthful of trail mix. Maxipads make great trauma dressings. Good reason to keep girls around. I always have several pairs of non latex gloves (the blue ones) for BSI for myself, other responders, and if I do CPR I can take a pocket knife and cut a glove so it acts as a moderate barrier. Could also be used as an occlusive dressing. Space blanket is a good idea. In large groups it is a good idea if one person has a sleeping bag. More likely to die of shock than the inital injury if your stuck somewhere with severe trauma. Common sense is the best thing to keep with you in case of an emergency. Priorities are: you and your partner's safety first, then your patient's safety in that order. Risk a lot to safe a lot. Risk a little to save a little.