brukb

above link failed, try this; www.realrehab.com

I'm a Physical Therapist, I will be opening a new clinic (with a fellow climber)in the North end of Seattle within a few months(see www.realrehab.com). I would be happy to recommend specific PTs for those who PM me their email address; would be based on location, type of therapy looking for, injury, etc. Bruk

Approach: Road to Phelp's Creek trail head is driveable now right to the trailhead. On the trail there are some creek and river crossings that were a little tricky due to washouts and very high water flow. First one involved an aid move on branches about 50 ft. upstream from the trail, last one went across a large log right at the turn off to Leroy Creek trail. About 1/2 of the hike in was on snow up to about 5,000 feet, then it was almost all snow. Did some minor bushwacking while routefinding up to Leroy basin. We bivied at about 7500 ft. With beautiful views. Lots of running water. There is still a lot more snow than usual up there for this time of year. Route: From the saddle between Maude and Seven Fingered Jack we tried to scope the route, but could not quite see it. The snow had not quite hardened up enough to our liking and the sun was already on the route since the moment of sunrise. The shaded snow was rapidly losing firmness just from the heat of the day at 6:00 a.m., and the snow in the sun was on it's way to Slurpee consistency. We had no desire to swim up a 55-60 degree slope on snow that I could drink through a straw so we bailed. This route is called the "North Face", but it is actually only a north-facing aspect on an East face, and this time of year (Summer solstice)the sun is so far North that the shaded route that we had hoped for was not happening. We cruised up Jack instead for a fun climb up good snow on moderately steep snow, with a fun scramble to the summit after getting past the choss. From Jack's summit we could see the "North Face" route on Maude and could see that only a small fraction of it was actually shaded, the rest was heating up rapidly. There were tracks from another party that had done the traverse from the saddle, under the "North Face", and then up the right side of the Entiat icefall, but no tracks up the North Face. The icefall looked easy and straightforward, could be done without any ice climbing, but then why bother. Maude's North Face still has a lot of snow on it also. It should should shape up into some good alpine ice with 2-4 more weeks of melt-off and refreezing. Later in the season should also put the route in a more shaded position as the sun moves further South, allowing more climbable conditions. We probably could have done it safely if we had started a couple hours earlier, allowing us to get well up the route before sunrise.

Has anyone been to Mt. Maude's North Face yet this year? How was access to the trailhead? What were snow coverage and conditions like? Thanks Bruk

I "climbed" the South side route on Hood on 4/21. Used Randonee skis up to the Hog's back then ditched them because it was too icy to get traction. Crampons were only needed up the final steep stretch through the Pearly gates to the summit. The bergschrund was only about 6 inches wide and easily stepped over. I went solo so had no rope, and really there was no need for one. I left the car at 2:00 a.m. and was standing on the summit at 7:00 a.m. without much difficulty, was back at the car about 9:00. Although it was a sunny day the ski back down was pretty icy, pretty much all the way to the car. If you have an early start you probably won't need snowshoes or skis, but if you want to ski then go later when the snow softens. Of course pay attention to Avy conditions and freezing levels. I have some decent route photos from that trip, if you want to see them, send me an email. Bruk

It all really comes down to what your own acceptable level of risk is. The problem with a newbie is that they lack the experience needed to accurately judge what the level of relative risk is. Obviously you are never 100% safe on a glacier, no matter how experienced you are or what gear you have. There are times of year when it is relatively safer to travel on glaciers (with respect to crevasse hazards); when the cracks are full with max snowpack and when the cracks are exposed while in a "dry" state. Lower number of cracks, but more hidden in Winter, and higher number of cracks, less hidden, in Summer. I do solo glacier routes at times, and I have taken a few crevasse falls but never while soloing. I fell in up to my chest once in the Waddington range in a spot that appeared very benign, following right in my partner's footsteps. Experience and judgement decrease your level of risk but do not garuntee anything. If you have the experience to accurately judge the risk then I think you are free to make your own choice without reproach regardless of the consequences. If you die doing it then it would be sad, but I wouldn't consider you an "asshole" for it. By commuting in your car to work everday you are accepting a certain level of risk. It is amazing that although motor vehicle accidents kill and maim thousands of people every year, people still drive much more than they should, and not nearly as safely as they should. People know this but still drive, they accept that level of risk, and if they are killed in a car accident through no fault of their own, you never hear of them being called an "asshole" for driving. I definitely feel that I am safer soloing a glacier route in the right condition than driving my car here in Seattle, and by climbing or driving I inherently accept those risks. Bruk

I have been through this one with a fine tooth comb, me being a climber and my father being an insurance agent. This goes for disability insurance as well as life insurance. If your policy denotes climbing specifically as a high risk activity, or just makes a blanket statement in regards to "high risk activities", then your policy is sure to be denied if a claim is filed after a climbing accident. Although we all know that,except for a small fraction of a percent of climbers, we are safer climbing than driving to our day jobs in Mundania, the rest of the world thinks that "Vertical Limit" is what climbing is all about. So we get shafted while Joe Road Rage can have a sweet policy. My father watched for policies that came across his desk that did not specify climbing, or more importantly, any high risk activity, as an exclusion. He finally found one and I bought it. The exclusion was probably left out due to sloppy policy writing, but will stand up in court. Those policies are out there and an agent who looks hard enough can find one eventually. I also have membership in the American Alpine Club (surprised no one has mentioned that yet) which includes some insurance, and sells special insurance for the higher-risk expeditions. It's really a significant benefit. Working in the health care field I have learned that having a serious accident and having to foot the bill yourself is seriously suckfull. You spend down all your assets until the State puts you on Medicaid, which is relatively poor coverage that you wouldn't want to have to depend on. If you have no family or loved ones then the cost of death might not matter to you. However If you sustain a significant head injury, for example, without disability insurance, then you would get a minimal amount of health care and could end up wearing dirty diapers stuck in a broken wheelchair in a nasty nursing home. Seen it happen way too many times. BB

Anyone been up the snowfield since the weather has started calming down from the last storm cycle? Hoping to do some boarding from Camp Muir, wondering if there's wind crust/slabs that would make boarding difficult. How about Avy conditions up to Pan point? Thanks, Bruk

Anyone been up it? I've found info on the standard route (SE ridge?), but none on the north face. May be givin it a go in August, think that's too late in the season ? Thanks BB

The Diamirs are NOT intended to be used with rocker-bottom boots, i.e. climbing boots. My partner and I both had Diamirs on Denali, broke all four bindings in the same place. We were seriously pissed off limping all the way back to Kahiltna base with mickey-mouse wired, broken bindings. The Diamirs have since been modified, but are still not supposed to be used with climbing boots. We had tested them with our Invernos several times before heading to Alaska, but they waited to fail when we really needed them. That said, the Diamirs rock with an AT boot! Light, strong, and easy to get into. I switched to an old, bomber pair of Silveretta's while my partner splurged for the Dynafit pin bindings. We both also bought Dynafit AT boots. He got a pair of the lightest, most flexible boots, which were great for mild mild climbing (built more for travelling w/o skis than most AT boots), but hard to shred in due to lack of stability. I use a moderatly stiffer pair of Dynafit boots that work very well all around. And I'm on the lookout for a used pair of Dynafit pin bindings, they perform well and soooo light! On outings that focus on hard climbing I'll wear clmbing boots (hard to ski in, i.e. "survival skiing"), and outings that focus on skiing I'll use Dynafit boots and bindings. Best to rent different setups and see what works well for your skill level and intended use. Call the local shops to see who rents them, I heard REI Seattle does not rent AT gear anymore, but Pro Ski in Seattle does, and has always given me great service. Bruk

I've done several Winter attempts on Rainier with 2 succesful summits. Wands are not "trash" there unless you leave them there. If you think that your judgement is infallible enough to keep you from ever getting into a whiteout, especially on Rainier, then you are a fool. I learned to bring about 100 wands on a Rainier Winter climb. I've been laughed at for bringing so many, on Denali too, until others had to follow our wands in poor conditions. Many were used just getting to Camp Muir, which is probably harder to descend from in a whiteout than descending from the summit. Gib ledge route doesn't need as many wands, especially if you are able descend that route. This is also the route of choice if conditions are right, just because it allows for shortest summit day, which is important in Winter. I have never used a GPS, but had a couple experiences on Rainier where I wish I had one.You cannot count on there being enough people climbing Rainier in the Winter to be able to follow their boot track or wands. You should be prepared to navigate the mountain entirely on your own, and be able to kick your own steps all the way to the summit and back as well.Before you even get to the mountain, plot your bearings and direction changes at specific elevations for your intended route and an alternate route, especially for your descent and most importantly just to get back to Paradise from Muir. Check your notes and make corrections as you ascend. The climbing rangers usually have a cheat sheet for navigating Muir-Paradise, get one for everybody in your party and see if you can follow those bearings on the approach to Muir, and be sure that you can do the same thing in the dark, in a whiteout with high winds while you are exhausted and no one else can help you. Winter is absolutely the best time to summit Rainier! It can be a real memorable experience, just keep it a good one. Your chance for a reasonable weather window is always fairly slim in Winter there, so don't be afraid to bail and come back, or to wait out bad weather for a few days at Muir. Good Luck, take a lot of photos, and keep yourself from becoming a story on the evening news here in Seattle. Bruk

We're checkin out Smith/Bend over Thanksgiving weekend, it will be our first time there. Any suggestions on best sport and trad routes below 5.12? How about best place to camp (especially with a dog)?

Looking for some rock/ice climbing that can be done this weekend. Usually go to Frenchman's Coulee but looking for something multipitch. Any suggestions? Are the Leavenworth climbs snow-covered this week? How about Darrington or Mazama area? Thanks

My wife is impressively adept at peeing in a wide mouth Nalgene, in her sleeping bag, without any asstive devices, and without spilling a drop! Took some practice. Once did Triple Couloirs on Dragontail with a female friend of mine. While walking off the backside she said she needed to take a leak, so she turned her back to me, unzipped and arced a stream that stunned me. She was using a Lady J, also impressive. By the way; Fun Facts about Pee: human urine is only "sterile" in the sense that it has not been contaminated by anything outside of the body. It is, however, chock full of bacteria and other goodies. I worked in a lab, spent way too many nights doing urine cultures. I've met several people who drink their own urine for medicinal purposes, I doubt they would do so if they saw what it will grow in a petri dish. There is a reason why your body filters that stuff out and excretes it from your body. You can distill it though,in a pinch, to prevent dying of thirst. "Peeing" "Pee-on"

I've used a Bibler frequently for the past 5 years, including stormy trips to Denali and Waddington. It was a "pre Black-Diamond-sellout" model, and I've since heard several stories about a significant drop in quality since the sellout. Our Bibler (my partner's actually) has been outstanding for they way it has held up in relation to it's weight, handled high winds and snow loading very well in addition while being light weight and easy to set up. I have an old TNF mountain which is definitely more bomber but weighs twice as much. Main drawbacks with the Bibler in my experience are: condensation; prone to heavy condensation on inner wall, it's only single walled so that is an inherent problem. The newer models have better ventilation. Material strength; while diggin us out during a storm on Denali, my partner put his foot through the wall near the base just by stepping on it. Have not seen any problems with seams or zippers. Don't know if I would drop the cash for a new one, but I would definitely buy an older model at a used price. brukb

My original post at the top of the page was back in June, when I had been planning on doing the Headwall. I responded last week to an inquiry by "Billy" about climbing the headwall at this time of year and passed along what I had been told about it by a well respected, local ice climber. If he tells me that it took him 23 pitches then I have no reason to doubt him, especially since I have never been on it and he is much more experienced on alpine ice than I am. Although I've gone in for two attempts on the headwall, I had to settle for summits via the North Ridge and the Coleman Deming route because of headwall conditions. The number of pitches on a rock route in Squamish is obviously more standardized than the number of pitches on a snow/ice route in late season on a volcanoe route. I don't pass on misinformation or BS when it comes to trip reports. Dru, your second post was helpful and I'm sure it was more along the lines of what was asked for last week. "Billy" still has not gotten an answer on latest conditions for the headwall though, and I would be interested along with him to hear what it's like up there this late in a low-snowpack year. Worthile reading on this particular bulletin board would be something constructive relating to a trip report, as opposed to spray on the climber's board or, my gosh, spray on the "spray" board. Thanks for lavishing all the attention though. Charlie Mike, -Brukb

Did I post that on the spray board? Sorry about that. I was just passing the info along. Caveman and Dru, I really appreciate your helpful responses. I don't post much on this site because there are few folks here, especially you two, that post so much useless crap that it's hard to sift through all the bullshit and find some worthwhile reading. I'm sure this one will earn me your love though, hope to hear from you soon!

I haven't seen it this summer, maybe someone else has. But to give you an idea of what you might be in for, I can give you beta from someone that has done a late season ascent of the headwall, he said it was a full-on, 23 pitch ice climb. Didn't sound too technically difficult or even too steep, but sustained ice with some steeper sections up to 75(?) degrees, not to mention some possibly difficult schrund crossing. Should be too hard if you can move quickly and proficiently.

Looking for info on conditions within last week or two; crossing Coleman glacier to the headwall, and conditions on the headwall itself, ice/snow, schrund problems, etc. All help is appreciated, thanks!

Has anyone been up around Sandy Headwall in last week? Looking for recent info on snow/ice conditions, rock exposure, etc. Thanks!

Heading up to Shuksan in a week to ski the Sulphide glacier. Anyone have any recent info on route condition? Sounds like most of the glacier routes are a little thin still. Thanks!

I am a subscriber to Accidents in NA Mtneering, good reading on how not to climb. I'm actually looking for "lesser" injuries, tendonitises, overuse, finger pulleys, blisters, knee strains, etc.

Working on an article about climbing injuries and would like to survey the audience; What are the most common climbing/backcountry injuries, how were they obtained, and how might they have been prevented? All responses are appreciated!

Anyone been up around the North Face of Chair peak recently? Looking for beta on route conditions, any help is appreciated, thankx!

Large difference between "Hard" and "Dangerous". Like someone else said, you don't neccesarily have to be a great climber to tackle something with high objective hazard (i.e. Willis Wall). Endless climbs in the cascades that are hard but w/ relatively low objective hazard.