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skimbleshanks

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Everything posted by skimbleshanks

  1. Owl slabs june weekend

    Looking for a partner to get an afternoon of slab cragging in close to home.
  2. Looking to climb illumination rock this summer and find the landmarks and belay/rap stations. I want to climb it in winter but would like to familiarize myself with the area when it is free of snow. I have a rope and more than half of a trad rack that I've pieced together. Been a while since I've belayed or been belayed so getting together to brush up on the basics and see if we are a good fit wouldn't be a bad idea. I have a family so planning a couple weeks or month out works best for me. Logan. 5ohthree 917 nine8sevenzero
  3. Alpine Dads wanted

    Add me to the list. In the Salem area with 2 kids, 4 months and 15 months. Can get out 1 day a month with at least 2 weeks notice. Climbed Mt. Rainer and Mt. Washington last year. Climbed Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams and South Sister before that. Looking to tick off all the cascades in the next few years. Been going to the climbing gym a couple times a month since January.
  4. Partner for Hood South Side!

    Hood south side is very straightforward. Basically point your compas north and go up hill till there isn't any uphill left. Or follow the line of headlamps up. Ive done it a few times. Solo at that. If you have done Rainer DC and Shasta then you should be in good shape to tackle Hood. I will say this though. The very upper reaches do get much steeper than anything I experienced on Rainer last spring (Ingraham direct route). I would love to climb it again and doing it with a partner could be fun. My wife just had a baby so my spring is kinda up in the air but I may be able to get a day in June if that works.
  5. Fryehard

    Where is this and you? More info might get better answers?
  6. Looking to get onto some harder routes in the next few winters. I have a few Cascade volcano summits up the standard routes. Leutholds coulior, and Devils kitchen head wall are the primary targets of the next 2 winters. I currently own and have used a Grivel G1 ice axe for all my summits. I have taken a Grivel Alp monster with me on 2 Mt. Hood trips up the pearly gates. Looking to get a moderate set of tools. One adz and one hammer. Average price would be nice, still usable on easier glacier travel. Im tall at 6'4" so longer might help there. The Petzl Quark looks nice but I really want to look at the field.
  7. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    Thanks for all the replies. I think I have it figured out. Switch one of my trekking poles to a black diamond whippet for easier or lower angle stuff and a set of tools once the real climbing begins. I know the early days used very simple equipment. Those climbers were probably way more badass than I'll ever be. Grivel North Machines or Petzl Quarks and Cassin X light looks like what im looking for. The carbon shafts of the Grivel really do appeal to me but another $80+ might make the decision for me. Looking for deals now. But would love to try before I plunk down the cash. Anybody want to let me swing their tools once some ice comes in?
  8. Mt. Thielsen september 1st

    Looking for somebody that wants to climb Mt. Thielsen. Im leaving portland after work friday night at 11pm to get there early. I have a rope, some cams, hexs, and runners. Never been to Theilsen before so a bonus if you have. 503 nine one seven 98 seven zero
  9. Trip: Mt. Washington - North Ridge Trip Date: 09/01/2018 Trip Report: Climbed Mt. Washington. Real fun. Straightforward approach up the north ridge to the notch before the summit block. 7 people ahead of us. They were kind and offered to belay my climbing partner and I from the top. The one move about 20 or so feet up the first pitch was kinda tricky. An undercling some reaching around and trust in the belayer above brought me over the hump. Real fun but exposed scrambling to the summit. I wouldn't blame anybody for staying roped up for the remaining pitches. Best options for protection would be slinging rock horns for the most part. OR small nuts or hexs smaller than an inch. Lots of um... not solid rock up there so not sure how much any gear would actually hold a fall in the cracks. Maybe knife blade pitons too. The 3 rappels down were fun and lots of nice people sharing ropes to get everybody up and down in good time. Back to the notch we chose to descend the scree field. It was ok. I was wearing shin height boots. Short boots or aproach shoes would have been filled with rock in a second though. The hike to the car was fast but we were tired and conversation wasnt as excited as it had been in the morning. Real fun climb. Way better than all the books say. Thanks Paul for answering my partner request here. Gear Notes: Long slings. Real long. Approach Notes: Follow the trail turn left at the cairn and follow that trail.
  10. Salem area climbers for any time

    Im 30, I live in the Salem area. I have a job and family so plenty of planning is a must but I'm looking to get out climbing more. I have 3 summits of Mt. Hood, 1 each of South Sister, Mt. Adams, and 2 weeks ago Mt. Rainier. I am looking to start branching out to more rock and eventually get onto alpine rock routes in the North Cascades as well as altitude goals such as Aconcagua. Really just want to climb stuff. Lets get together have a beer and see if we can line up some goals.
  11. Mt. Thielsen gear

    In A few weeks or month or so I plan on taking my brother and a friend up Mt. Thielsen. None of us have been there and I am the most experienced climber among us. A few summits of Hood, Adams once and just summited Rainier about a week ago. From pictures I feel like I could climb it without A rope or protection. However, how I feel from a few pictures combined with the even more novice partners im going with leads me to want to bring my rope and a few pieces of gear. I am having trouble finding a good gear list. Specifically nut and hex sizes that would be appropriate?This is a climb different than I have done before and I dont really have a "rack". Thus I'm going to buy some gear and have a different friend run me through some placement techniques. I plan on running through some belay and rappell stuff with my brother and friend prior to this trip. Im looking to have a fun time, push ourselves a little bit, but most importantly get back home alive and in one piece. Thank you for your time.
  12. Mt. Thielsen gear

    Could you point me or your friend in each others direction? I have been doing research and the best i can come up with is "a handful of chocks".
  13. What time of the year for Mt Adams?

    I climbed Adams from the standard route in late September of 2015. LOTS or rock on the approach to the lunch counter and a few bands of rock needed crossing near the top of Pikers Peak. My boots got a hammering. I wont be going back that late in the year again. Fun climb but more snow would have been more fun I think. June-August would be my best bet.
  14. Mt. Thielsen gear requirements

    In A few weeks or month or so I plan on taking my brother and a friend up Mt. Thielsen. None of us have been there and I am the most experienced climber among us. A few summits of Hood, Adams once and just summited Rainier about a week ago. From pictures I feel like I could climb it without A rope or protection. However, how I feel from a few pictures combined with the even more novice partners im going with leads me to want to bring my rope and a few pieces of gear. I am having trouble finding a good gear list. Specifically nut and hex sizes that would be appropriate?This is a climb different than I have done before and I dont really have a "rack". Thus I'm going to buy some gear and have a different friend run me through some placement techniques. I plan on running through some belay and rappell stuff with my brother and friend prior to this trip. Im looking to have a fun time, push ourselves a little bit, but most importantly get back home alive and in one piece. Thank you for your time.
  15. Hood accident lawsuit

    People die on Hood EVERY year. People die climbing around the world every year. Every year a couple top level climbers, ski mountaineers, back country bad ass' die. We all know it's a possibility to make a mistake or have luck run out. We weigh the risk and reward and venture out, or not, knowing that the cost of failure can be tragically high. There is zero reason for this lawsuit but grief turned to greed.
  16. Summer partner wanted

    Im Logan, im 30 in the Salem area, have a wife and new baby at home so I would need a couple weeks notice for any adventures, but... I just summited Rainier on the 20th of this month and the stoke is back. Im looking to start hitting some harder or more technical climbs. Mt. Jefferson looks like a fun pile of choss on top and the north east buttress of Goode Mountain really has my interest, but im open to climbing just about anything im capable of. Mt. Hood ×3 South Sister ×1 Mt. Adams ×1 Rainier ×1
  17. la sportiva vs scarpa vs lowa

    I have my eyes on some boots I am planning to buy. They are: La Sportiva Nepal cube gtx Scarpa Mont blanc pro gtx Lowa weisshorn gtx I plan on doing Mt hood in the spring as well as the 3 sisters Mt Jefferson and Mt st Helens over the next 2 years. Mt. Rainier in the summer after that. If I end up going higher than that or making attempts in winter I will move up to a boot more suited to that kind of activity. Wondering if there are any other boots I should be looking at that can be had in a size 13-14? Under $600 too. Full shank with heel and toe welts. I am going to go with the best fitting boot so would like to try them on. Any place in Salem or Portland that would have these or be able to order them in to try? Local REI is being kinda fussy about getting them all at once to try back to back. Thank you for your help.
  18. Close to Portlandish 5-23 weekend

    Looking to climb something the weekend of the 23rd. All of its open and I had Adams in mind or Leutholds couloir on hood. I am in decent shape and hike quite a bit. 27, male, enthusiastic.I am however fairly new to the alpine world with one climb of the south side of Mt.Hood under my belt. Looking for other climbers that know a bit more than I do and wouldn't mind a green climber tagging along. Sboot me a pm if interested, thanks. Logan.
  19. 20 year dream in the making

    New here, been in Oregon my whole life and started thinking about climbing mountains as a small child of probably 7. Seeing Jefferson in the mornings my whole life and a few Hollywood movies really did something to me at that age. Also I thought that ice axes were really cool looking and whatever you did with one I wanted to be a part of. Years passed and I took up mountain biking, backpacking, and snowboarding. These all kept me in the hills and mountains. Backpacking parts of the pct in northern Washington in high school really made me once again want to see for myself what was at the top of the mountains. Then college happened and my interests quickly changed to beer and girls (in that order). Got out of school, got a job, met my wife, got a different job (career) and have recently taken that 20 year pull towards the mountains seriously and have started training to climb Mt. Hood in early June. I am currently doing a 2.5-3 mile walk 3 times a week. A 5 or 9 mile pack walk once a week. And every other weekend doing the north ridge trail on Mary's peak. In the coming months I also plan on doing the Elk Mountain-Kings Mountain loop hike and Mount Defiance. I will be asking questions regarding gear, and possibly needing buddy's to hike or climb with. I look forward to being here and getting ready.
  20. 20 year dream in the making

    Well Saturday 5-9-15 I made it to the summit. I left work at about 11:00pm in Clackamas. Made it to the mountain and was on my way by 1:00am. Was only going to try to make it to the hogsback as I had been doing training hikes on the mountain with the only intention of getting higher each time without getting to a dangerous place as I was going solo. I felt surprisingly good at the hogsback, the weather was wonderful so I just went for it. The old chute was clogged with people going both ways, so I decided to try the pearly gates. There was only one group of 2 people at the bergschrund as I started up. I kept that distance till they disappeared. There were fairly solid steps stomped in and the going was good except for a spot about 10-15 feet in length that was of a harder ice and required swinging my ice axe to get good purchase between steps. At 9:58 am I sat on the summit and took a breather for a few minutes. Sent a text and photo to my wife who was both happy for me making it and kinda pissed that I was solo. Understandable that it isn't the safest thing in the world but I never felt out of my comfort zone as far as calculated risk goes. Did lots of glissades on the way down the more safe and controlable slopes and was back at my car just before noon. Drank a Monster and ate what was quickly turning into a borderline turned sandwich in the sun inside my car and started the drive home to Salem. look forward to many more summits and more importantly cold beer and a soft bed at home.
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