Nick Sweeney

The East Ridge of Inspiration makes for a rugged and unforgettable trip - it’s just so cool up there! Full TR with photos on my site: SPOKALPINE Gear Notes -Gear: Crampons, ice axe, 70m single rope, one set of nuts, cams .2-3 with doubles of 2 and 3. -Make sure to bring extra cord to leave on rappel anchors. -For pretty much all alpine rock routes in the Cascades, I prefer to use a highly breathable approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX3 along with aluminum crampons as my approach footwear. It was exceedingly hot during this trip and I really appreciated the breathability on the big hiking days. I find that Goretex or leather approach shoes tend to get wet and stay wet on multi-day trips, while breathable shoes will get wet and dry out relatively quickly. Strategy Notes -Terror Basin is located within North Cascades National Park and requires an overnight permit which you can get from the ranger station in Marblemount. -The approach and hike out deserve their own day on either end of your trip. -The glacier is mellow. Roping up is still a smart call.

Awesome effort on the climb AND this awesome writeup. Respect!

Thank you AAI and Jason!

Speaking out of sincere concern and well wishes: I am seriously worried about you and your friend living for very long. You are in your first year of climbing and mention multiple epics and serious injuries. On this climb, you used a bunch of single point rappel anchors. There's other things you wrote that give me concern too, but I'll leave it at that for now. You seem to be making decisions like you are running out of time to climb... which you might be, if you don't start making more conservative decisions. If you slow your roll a bit, dial in the fundamentals, and make more conservative choices, you'll have a long climbing career and live to tell the tale. It would be a shame for a stoked climber like you to have (another) serious injury that takes you out of the game, or worse.

Even with its location, it's still extremely popular. Tons of climbers and non-climbers alike up there!

The road was chill, we had more than a Prius but less than a truck. No issues!

Such a great read - sounds like an adventure of a lifetime.

This route is a bit off the beaten path, but undeniably classic and honestly pretty mellow for a 7 pitch 5.10a (guidebook grade). The perfect way to wrap up alpine rock season! Full TR with photos here: Spokalpine

God damn! I was so scared on the first pitch that I didn’t even notice the second one being badly protected, though it totally was in retrospect.

This is awesome. Nice moves!

Lion Tamer is the Acid Baby of the Idaho Selkirks. Do it! Bring a strong partner and all of your lichenous choss wrangling skills. Full report/photos here: Lion’s Head – Lion Tamer (III 5.10c) – SPOKALPINE

The crowds were heinous, as to be expected on a "50 Classics" climb, but it was a wonderful day out. I already want to go back to the Tetons... Full TR here: Grand Teton – Complete Exum (III 5.7) – SPOKALPINE

That's some amazing terrain up there! Nice effort.

No snow gear needed currently. Do this climb!! Full TR with photos: https://spokalpine.com/2023/08/04/slesse-northeast-buttress-v-5-10a/

NW Ridge/Face/Buttress/Arete is as good as it gets. Truly one of the best all-around adventures you can have as a climber in the Cascades. Do it!