Lukas

are they tc pros with blown out toes?

What do you have in mind? There's some easy stuff I'd like to do in WA Pass. Or W Ridge of Forbidden (tho I'm not familiar with what the conditions are like up there now).

Had my first experience with aid climbing at Index yesterday (yes, in the rain). I'll be in Leavenworth this weekend and wanted to see if anyone could recommend a good route for practicing aid? Thanks!

Nice TR! My partner and I were hiking in Saturday as you were hiking out. We experienced the same high winds at night as you've described

This is a solemn reminder that mountains do not care. It doesn’t matter how strong you are, how much you’ve prepared, how much you love the mountain. Just as the proper training will help us succeed, I'm learning we also need a heavy dose of luck. We don’t succeed on our own. We succeed because the mountain decided that today we get to enjoy its summit. My thoughts are with the fallen climbers and their friends and family.

nice report stephen. check out the vid:

i came here to write what gaucho wrote. it would be nice if all climbers could be "tagged" in a TR and that TR appear in our profile

here's us approaching the cornices: http://imgur.com/J9SBtyW we belayed from the large rock in the center. and climbed up around its right side: http://imgur.com/iSzxpDb. there was an anchor (bail anchor possibly?) made from a couple pins, webbing and lockers halfway up - that was the only pro. good luck! my partner is working on the TR

We climbed the right side: http://m.imgur.com/P1Xzdul 4 screws was enough. The ice cliff and the cornice are the only sections we pitched out. It took us 1.5 hours to find the best option to get through the cornice, which was still terrifying! The bergshrund was not an issue, barely noticed it.

I climbed the ICG Sunday. The cornice was no joke. Slushy snow covering rock up to it with no pro but some bail anchors half way. Soon it may be better to top out the cornice w/o crampons on. There was nothing falling down on us but there were avalanches and ice fall to climbers right above the ice cliff, no danger to anyone on the ICG. Shin deep snow most of the way.

check out the facebook group called tieton rock climbers, which is used quite a bit

I currently live in Seattle and work in Woodinville (30min commute). I'm considering moving to Monroe (20min commute) thinking that I could also get out to Index during the week. Are there a good amount of climbers at Index during the week after work? Where do they live/work?

even if the approach is longer than usual, it's still very doable in 2 days. i did the coleman-deming in january in 2 days and I'm slow. don't let the longer approach deter you!

last i heard, it was impassable at mile 13. the TH is at mile 21, i think?

i was part of the trio that climbed nbc on sunday. can confirm mostly styrofoam snow.

why not gib ledges?

Shirt=Medium for me... The Fast & Light Climbing in Alaska Presentation is at 7:30PM at Second Ascent too.. : ( so I may not be there.. I'm still deciding

it's my partners. will PM to confirm

Hey all, I've been mountaineering for a couple years now. I've never been up Rainier and wanted to ask what conditions you look for while deciding when to climb it. I found a website that gives conditions and forecasts at various elevations: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Mount-Rainier/forecasts/4392. There's wind, sky conditions, temperature, freezing level etc. Then http://www.nwac.us for the avy forecast. So before you head to Paradise, what conditions do you look for and do you have a cap on any characteristic that would have you cancel the trip (ex: if winds are at 90 mph you're staying home)?

Von Trapp's is cool, beer and bocce ball Or to stay away from downtown I like The Yard

Anyone know if it's still frozen?

I'd like to follow someone on ice if anyone needs a belay. I'm in Seattle, Snoq Pass is close for a day trip. I could drive. I have a rope, no screws yet.

if you'd like a top rope partner let me know! i only have 1 screw.. enough for a redirect!

i've been thinking about doing this route. if it's only 40-50 degree snow slopes, why so much pro? did you use it all?

Trip: Mount Baker - Coleman-Deming Glaciers Date: 1/16/2014 Trip Report: On January 16, Todd and I headed up to the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead. We drove up 39 as far as we could and parked with a bunch of snowmobilers. While we purchased the Sno-Park season pass at REI the previous day, we left it at home (we weren't ticketed). It was both of our first times on the mountain and first time on glaciers. I have experience above 14k feet and Todd has a lot of backpacking experience. We are both sport climbers. Seeing the forecast I was stoked to get out. The temperature inversion gave me more excitement, as I love undercasts! Heliotrope Ridge Trail had deep powder and was tough breaking trail. We don't have skis, YET. Too poor. We were hoping to see others' tracks, but we were first on the scene and never found the climbers trail. We ended up hiking all the way out to Glacier View then traversing back and making camp at Gargoyle Camp. Most of the snow above treeline was icy. Little post-holing. We awoke at 2AM on Jan 17 to high winds. Back to sleep. Todd woke me up at 8AM and we made the decision to climb up to the Hogsback. I wasn't comfortable with a VERY late start, but I was just happy to be on the mountain and figured we'd climb to the Hogsback and head down off the mountain. The crevasses looked amazing! The maze of crevasses had us traverse the entire Coleman Glacier to the Roman Nose then back to the Coleman Saddle. Once there we probably got summit fever and decided to keep going and make the summit. We made it back to our camp just as the sun set. A team of 3 skiers was also on the mountain and we followed their tracks out by torch light (Not the best decision but it was one we felt comfortable with). Their tracks never went on the Heliotrope Trail, it cut through the woods and came out right behind the bathrooms at the trailhead... is this the typical approach trail??? If anyone from that trio reads this, thank you very much for the tracks! Here's a video I put together: Gear Notes: Crampons, Ice axe, Glacier Travel equipment Approach Notes: Snowshoes or skis would be great.