JDCH

Interesting about guide mode as the ropes getting smaller Thoughts?

Taking a friend up for his first alpine climb tomorrow... Any snow left up there? thanks,

Howdy- So I'm scheduled to fly into the ruth on saturday. Trying to figure out what the most reliable weather forecast for the area is... Those of you who have been there, which sites should I look at? Thanks,

Well I'm going early April... Like April 1... Suggestions for ideal temp rating John? what sort of night time temps have you seen there?

This is all great news. Thank you for the input, I am now even more pumped for this trip, which i didnt think was possible. While i've got your attention, what temp sleeping bags did you guys bring for base camp livin? I have a 20, and -20, i feel like 0 would be ideal, but id rather not buy a new bag, and -20 feels like overkill. Will i be cold in a 20? And while I'm at it, any other unsolicited advice for my first foray into the Ruth is also welcome. Thanks!

Howdy! So I'm heading to the Ruth in early April, and was fishing around the interwebs for some cooking ideas, when i saw a video of an expedition where people brought a full propane tank, complete with 2 burner stoves, etc etc and had RIBs one night, as well as standard expedition fare. That being said, it looks like TAT doesn't allow propane tanks on the plane. What's the go to set up if i want to eat well and avoid freeze dried crap. Thoughts? Experiences? Thanks in advance.

Howdy- So I'm going to the Ruth for 10 days in April, and was planning on doing some sled hauling while there. That being said, have people flown with their sleds? Bought them in AK? Thoughts?

If this came to seattle I'd be in for sure...

While I would love to climb any of those objectives this weekend, Word to the wise, they'll likely all be avalanche death pits... Likely without any ice taboot! http://www.nwac.us

North Conway New Hampshire. More ice than you could ever climb in a week, most with sub 20 minute approaches...

Just heard from Kurt Hicks who was up there a few days ago. Sounds like he descended the route and it was OK. He said the comet falls trail and not the nisqually was the way to go, but I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the extra 1500' of gain... Anyone done that approach before? Is it a bunch of extra gruel? Regarding the route, Kurt said it was in good shape, the lower pitch at around 120M, and the upper at around 160M

Howdy- Heading up the Kautz next week. From what i can tell, it looks to be in good shape. Anyone know otherwise? More importantly, trying to decide on my descent plan. I know its fairly standard to carry over to the DC, but that sounds like a shit show right now. Has anyone descended the Kautz? Does it suck even worse than the DC would? Thanks for looking

Dave -- agree 100%.

pure entertainment value. Eg: when your buddy asks you to borrow a nut tool, you hand it to him. Hilarity ensues.

This is hilarious. Backed.

Anyone been up there?

Howdy- Anyone been up near the tooth recently? or anywhere up in the alpental valley? Thinking of running a lap or 2 on the tooth this weekend in the sun, and wondering what i need to get there, Crampons? Boots? Flotation? Or just sneakers? Thanks for reading!

VRBO.com

I have the petzl screw sharpener and i think it is brilliant. Yes, it will slightly change the angle on the BD screws, but it makes them very sharp, and as long as you use the sharpener evenly on all 4 teeth it doesnt matter. I noticed no difference placing them after the angle had changed, other than a sharp screw that started easy

It was rad. Practice gully is still in pretty fat, it MAY survive the day, fingers crossed for you!

Howdy- Striking out with my regular partners, but I'm a fiend and need one more ice route before it all melts. I have to be at work in downtown Bellevue for a 9:30 meeting, but my plan is to be at the alpental parking lot by 6, and then take a quick run up the practice gully, and back down to Bellevue in time for my meeting. ANYONE DOWN? Text me... nine seven three 464 zero seven 33 Thanks,

Howdy- So I'm going on a 2.5 week honeymoon in New Zealand in February. My lovely wife has agreed to a couple of days of alpine climbing, but I need to figure out a good objective that is: 1. Easy-Moderate(read 5.7ish or WI3ish) 2. Takes 2 days or less 3. Is super fun. Any suggestions?

Howdy- So I'm going on a 2.5 week honeymoon in New Zealand in February. My lovely wife has agreed to a couple of days of alpine climbing, but I need to figure out a good objective that is: 1. Easy-Moderate(read 5.7ish or WI3ish) 2. Takes 2 days or less 3. Is super fun. Any suggestions?

Howdy Friends, We were planning to climb in Washington pass this weekend, and now there is a big ol fire in the winthrop area with strong wings blowing it around and making for a red flag warning. Think the climbing will still be ok? I hope one of you has a better sense of where these fires are and how they are evolving than i do. Because I can't seem to make up my mind. Thanks!

Did you guys take the summer trail or winter trail? Heading up tomorrow after work.. Thanks!